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Dryer help
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:22 pm
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:22 pm
Dryer runs and tumbles but does not dry clothes. Unhooked back line and let it blow to make sure it wasn’t vent. Checked continuity on fuse it was good. Checked continuity on heating element it was good but tried a new one incase and it didn’t solve the issue either. Continuity on thermostat seems good but idk if this is a good way to test that. Any other ideas? Edit it’s a basic kenmore dryer nothing fancy
This post was edited on 3/19/24 at 6:23 pm
11
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:23 pm to Redstickbaw
Sensors clean with alcohol then wet sand them with 1500 grit sand paper
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:27 pm to Redstickbaw
Did you check the thermal fuses? I think there 2 on mine and one had blown. You can test them for continuity just like the heating element.
NM…looks like you already checked those.
NM…looks like you already checked those.
This post was edited on 3/19/24 at 6:28 pm
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:29 pm to Redstickbaw
When you say thermostat, did you check both? Upper and lower ones?
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:31 pm to Redstickbaw
Dealing with this right now, there’s a bearing in mine that goes out.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:32 pm to Redstickbaw
Check the blower?
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:35 pm to Redstickbaw
Have you cleaned the lint trap ro blown it out?
Just a guess. Mine won't heat if there's a ton of lint.
Just a guess. Mine won't heat if there's a ton of lint.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:35 pm to Redstickbaw
Have you checked to make sure you’ve got 220v at your outlet? I’m pretty sure they’ll tumble with 110v but need 220v for the element. So if you’ve got a faulty breaker / leg on the wiring it won’t dry.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:37 pm to Cymry Teigr
You tube kenmore dryer not heating.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:44 pm to Redstickbaw
sometimes lint can build up beyond the filter and cause clothes not to dry even though it runs fine. this especially occurs and 90 degree turns.
also, flip the breaker off completely and back on.
also, flip the breaker off completely and back on.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:53 pm to Redstickbaw
If you’ve already opened it up, is the tech manual in there?
If so I would start there. You probably have a step-by-step troubleshooting guide that will tell you which specific connectors/pins to check etc.
If so I would start there. You probably have a step-by-step troubleshooting guide that will tell you which specific connectors/pins to check etc.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:55 pm to Redstickbaw
If gas then you need new coils.
If electric is likely a thermostat.
This issue is very common for gas dryers and the coils are dirt cheap but more info is needed.
If it heats. But doesn't dry you should do a dollar bill test. Set the machine to air fluff. No heat. Hold the door switch and start the machine. Then throw a dollar bill at the vent. If it sticks to the vent you have good airflow. If not then you have a blockage or bad fan.
If it does stick to the vent and it's gas then change the coils.
If electric is likely a thermostat.
This issue is very common for gas dryers and the coils are dirt cheap but more info is needed.
If it heats. But doesn't dry you should do a dollar bill test. Set the machine to air fluff. No heat. Hold the door switch and start the machine. Then throw a dollar bill at the vent. If it sticks to the vent you have good airflow. If not then you have a blockage or bad fan.
If it does stick to the vent and it's gas then change the coils.
This post was edited on 3/19/24 at 7:03 pm
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:56 pm to htcthc321
All I did to check the thermostat was check for continuity so idk if that is actually checking if it works. I’ll have to look for a second one I only tested one
Posted on 3/19/24 at 6:57 pm to Cymry Teigr
This is a common source of failure for electrical dryers. Especially with GE breakers. You get one leg that dies and you only get half the voltage.
I see this at least twice a month.
I see this at least twice a month.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 7:01 pm to Redstickbaw
You have a plastic thermal fuse it can only trip one time.
Then you have a limiter and a terminator on the heating element.
The terminator is the upper one and it can also only be tripped once.
The limiter on the bottom also known as the outlet thermostat is a bimetal it trips and resets after it cools.
Then you have another thermostat that has four wires this is on the exhaust near the thermal fuse. This one rarely fails but if it is failed it won't heat.
A cool dryer should have continuity across all the thermals.
Then you have a limiter and a terminator on the heating element.
The terminator is the upper one and it can also only be tripped once.
The limiter on the bottom also known as the outlet thermostat is a bimetal it trips and resets after it cools.
Then you have another thermostat that has four wires this is on the exhaust near the thermal fuse. This one rarely fails but if it is failed it won't heat.
A cool dryer should have continuity across all the thermals.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 7:28 pm to Napoleon
Ok thanks I’m guessing it’s the breaker then bc I’ve checked continuity on just about everything. The breaker never tripped on me though. Would it still be the breaker if it never tripped?
Posted on 3/19/24 at 7:50 pm to Redstickbaw
Check for voltage. If you have 220+ breaker is good. If you have half that breaker is bad.
What happens is the bus bar keeps the breaker visibly closed, but one leg is dead.
I'm not 100% that's the issue. You could have a bad blower fan. You could have a bad centrifugal switch you could have a bad timer. There are a ton of things it can be.
Knowing where you have power and how much power is how I diagnosis these things.
What happens is the bus bar keeps the breaker visibly closed, but one leg is dead.
I'm not 100% that's the issue. You could have a bad blower fan. You could have a bad centrifugal switch you could have a bad timer. There are a ton of things it can be.
Knowing where you have power and how much power is how I diagnosis these things.
Posted on 3/19/24 at 7:53 pm to Redstickbaw
Had the same issue recently. Mine was the dial/timer switch was broken. It still kept time but was not sending power to the heating coil.
This post was edited on 3/19/24 at 7:57 pm
Posted on 3/20/24 at 3:06 am to cajuns td
Also in Dryer hell. Moved into a new house. New Washer/Dryer......but clothes won't dry. It gets hot. Took the duct off the wall and it blows just fine out of the dryer. Problem is somewhere in the crawl space ducting.
Laundry room feels like a damned sauna after drying because of all the moisture.
Laundry room feels like a damned sauna after drying because of all the moisture.
Posted on 3/20/24 at 6:33 am to pankReb
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