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Started By
Message
Central AC not cooling well
Posted on 7/28/21 at 10:17 pm
Posted on 7/28/21 at 10:17 pm
I clean my indoor and outdoor unit every six months myself. It looks great. I have it checked by a HVAC service annually. I had my unit checked three months ago and it needed a little refrigerant/freon. (The unit is 12 years old.) It has been cooling great…until now. The unit runs constantly if I set it at 75 or below. The room temp never gets below 78 during the day and not below 76 at night. I checked a few things: The airflow through the air filter is great, the evaporator coils are NOT freezing, the drain is clear, the blower motor is fine, the fan on the outdoor unit is spinning fine, the capacitor looks fine and it tests fine. What else could it be? Why won’t it cool below 76? Also, I want to use a different HVAC service so if anyone can recommend a company who sends very experienced, qualified technicians who can troubleshoot (like a master specialist) PLEASE tell me the name of the company. Most technicians that I have encountered seem to do the bare minimal instead of trying to troubleshoot. I live in Zachary. Thanks in advance for any input or advice.
This post was edited on 7/28/21 at 11:35 pm
6
Posted on 7/28/21 at 10:29 pm to christy007
Location?
Temp at vents?
Temp at vents?
Posted on 7/28/21 at 10:37 pm to christy007
Is the outside fan blowing hot air or warm?
Posted on 7/28/21 at 10:51 pm to christy007
Even though you had refrigerant added recently, based on your thorough troubleshooting sounds like the leak may have increased but haven’t yet lost enough refrigerant to freeze the evap coil. Only way to tell is put a set of gauges on it and have the tech troubleshoot from superheat and subcool measurements.
As suggested check your temperature split - difference in air temperature between the return air plenum and the supply register closet to the air handler and let us know what you find. Ideally you’d be looking for a 18-20 F split.
Looking for the same - I’ll be following the responses of others.
As suggested check your temperature split - difference in air temperature between the return air plenum and the supply register closet to the air handler and let us know what you find. Ideally you’d be looking for a 18-20 F split.
quote:
want to use a different HVAC service so if anyone can recommend a company who sends very experienced, qualified technicians who can troubleshoot (like a master specialist) PLEASE tell me the name of the company. Most technicians that I have encountered seem to do the bare minimal instead of trying to troubleshoot. Thanks in advance for any input or advice.
Looking for the same - I’ll be following the responses of others.
This post was edited on 7/28/21 at 10:56 pm
Posted on 7/28/21 at 11:51 pm to christy007
I used Mobil air in br
Posted on 7/29/21 at 12:11 am to CrawDude
Scott Alexander with Alex Ac, 225-210-8657, flat out knows his shite and fixes things right the first time
Sounds like you have a leak, and being your unit is that old if it uses r22, you are looking at a new unit
Sounds like you have a leak, and being your unit is that old if it uses r22, you are looking at a new unit
This post was edited on 7/29/21 at 12:14 am
Posted on 7/29/21 at 12:55 am to christy007
Temp at return and furthest vent. Low on Freon most likely
Posted on 7/29/21 at 4:28 am to christy007
Take ACCURATE temperature measurements at the return and the coldest supply register. Waving around an IR temp gun is not an accurate measurement.
You should be getting roughly a 20 degree delta.
My 7 year old unit exhibited the same symptoms you were describing and they found a leak at the evaporator coil and that ended up being replaced under warranty (with $1500 labor, grrrr).
Most systems should run a lot in these temps but a properly functioning (and sized) system should be able to reach any setpoint 70 degrees or above.
I use BR Air Conditioning.
Keep us posted.
ETA: Also make sure the air handler in the attic is sealed well especially at the return and service panel access door.
Many installers do not seal the return well and the access door is famous for leaking (seal it with foil tape). Pulling in 130 degree air on the return side is no good.
Also if your return is in the ceiling right next to a poorly fitting/poorly sealed attic access door that is another recipe for getting attic air in the return.
You should be getting roughly a 20 degree delta.
My 7 year old unit exhibited the same symptoms you were describing and they found a leak at the evaporator coil and that ended up being replaced under warranty (with $1500 labor, grrrr).
Most systems should run a lot in these temps but a properly functioning (and sized) system should be able to reach any setpoint 70 degrees or above.
I use BR Air Conditioning.
Keep us posted.
ETA: Also make sure the air handler in the attic is sealed well especially at the return and service panel access door.
Many installers do not seal the return well and the access door is famous for leaking (seal it with foil tape). Pulling in 130 degree air on the return side is no good.
Also if your return is in the ceiling right next to a poorly fitting/poorly sealed attic access door that is another recipe for getting attic air in the return.
This post was edited on 7/29/21 at 4:39 am
Posted on 7/29/21 at 8:29 am to AmosMosesAndTwins
Hi,
Location: Zachary. Temp at vents 63 degrees.
Location: Zachary. Temp at vents 63 degrees.
Posted on 7/29/21 at 8:31 am to bbvdd
Hot
Posted on 7/29/21 at 8:34 am to CrawDude
I measured the vent temp at the hottest part of the day yesterday. Thermostat read 78. Vent temp 63 (taken with a new Fluke meter).
Posted on 7/29/21 at 8:35 am to djangochained
Thanks
Posted on 7/29/21 at 8:45 am to christy007
quote:
Location: Zachary. Temp at vents 63 degrees.
Just measured - 8:30 am? Temperature at return plenum/vent (where air filter is usually located)? For example let’s say your return vent temp now, 8:30 am, is 75 F, then your split, or delta, is 12 F (75 - 63). Too low of a temperature split - most likely culprit is low refrigerant charge - since you already acknowledged there is a leak in the system.
Posted on 7/29/21 at 8:48 am to AndyCBR
Good info. The temp at the vent was 63. I will check the temp at the return today. The return is sealed really tight. I sealed it myself several years ago just as you described. Do you get the same tech each time with BR Air or do they send different techs? It seemed that the last company I used had a revolving employment door.
Posted on 7/29/21 at 8:50 am to Hamma1122
Thanks. I’ll check the air handler today. The temp at the ceiling vent yesterday was 63.
Posted on 7/29/21 at 8:50 am to christy007
quote:
Thermostat read 78. Vent temp 63 (taken with a new Fluke meter).
Could be as much as 2 or 3 degrees difference between your thermostat reading and the air temperature at the return vent - take the temp at the return vent with the Fluke, immediately followed by the temp exiting a supply vent close to the air handler.
Posted on 7/29/21 at 8:51 am to CrawDude
~ Surprised nobody has suggested changing the capacitor ~
Just kidding. I'm sure it's NOT the capacitor.
Just kidding. I'm sure it's NOT the capacitor.
This post was edited on 7/29/21 at 10:27 am
Posted on 7/29/21 at 8:54 am to Tigerpaw123
Thanks for the referral. I definitely want someone who can fix it right the first time.
This post was edited on 7/29/21 at 8:55 am
Posted on 7/29/21 at 9:21 am to CrawDude
Thermostat: 76°
Air return: 75.6°
Registry Closet: 63°
Supply Vent: 62.8°
Measured with Fluke meter
Air return: 75.6°
Registry Closet: 63°
Supply Vent: 62.8°
Measured with Fluke meter
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