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Anyone here done DIY concrete stitching?
Posted on 5/2/25 at 10:27 am
Posted on 5/2/25 at 10:27 am
I’ve got a few cracks in my old-ish pool deck. The deck was color fast stained and looks dated. Plus, I’ve put in some new concrete in the area that isn’t stained, so it all just looks bad. I figured I’d do everything with one of the pool deck coatings out there, but before that, the cracks need to be repaired.
They’re probably 15-20’ in total length, and anywhere from 1/8-5/16” wide in places. They haven’t moved for a while but I don’t want them getting worse, especially since I’m going to invest in doing a coating back there to spruce things up.
My plan is to clean up the cracks with a crack chasing blade on my grinder, stitch the cracks with the epoxy that comes with one of the stitching systems out there, and fill the length of the crack with a polyurea or epoxy product. I’ll grind that down with a cup grinder and then have the coating done.
Has anyone tried this? Any feedback on the process or specific products and long-term performance?
They’re probably 15-20’ in total length, and anywhere from 1/8-5/16” wide in places. They haven’t moved for a while but I don’t want them getting worse, especially since I’m going to invest in doing a coating back there to spruce things up.
My plan is to clean up the cracks with a crack chasing blade on my grinder, stitch the cracks with the epoxy that comes with one of the stitching systems out there, and fill the length of the crack with a polyurea or epoxy product. I’ll grind that down with a cup grinder and then have the coating done.
Has anyone tried this? Any feedback on the process or specific products and long-term performance?

Posted on 5/2/25 at 10:31 am to GeauxldMember
I have a stone patio that has a long crack and I am contemplating something similar. Not sure exactly what to do.
Posted on 5/2/25 at 12:11 pm to GeauxldMember
Same issues here. Been pondering a fix. Will monitor and post if I find out anything.
Please post updates, pics.
Please post updates, pics.
Posted on 5/2/25 at 1:38 pm to Havoc
quote:
Please post updates, pics.
Will do when I get to it.
Posted on 5/4/25 at 11:29 am to GeauxldMember
The direction you are headed sounds reasonable to me. However, I think it will crack again. I would consider renting a concrete saw and installing a strategically placed expansion joint or two.
Posted on 5/4/25 at 12:19 pm to Spankum
quote:
However, I think it will crack again.
I have no doubt it’ will crack again at some point.
quote:
I would consider renting a concrete saw and installing a strategically placed expansion joint or two.
Funny you say this, as it’s in my larger scope plan. The previous homeowner had the pool installed, along with the pool deck, and the dumbasses put in ZERO expansion joints, other than the one around the pool. I own one of those Skil Medusa saws, and will be cutting in some control joints. Maybe they won’t help, but they can’t hurt. I plan to fill them in with some mortar before I get the deck coating done, and hopefully when it cracks again, it will be at my control joints.

Posted on 5/4/25 at 1:50 pm to GeauxldMember
a shallow depth sawcut in existing/mature concrete isn’t going to do anything. Those cuts are made in green concrete and are purely for aesthetics
a full depth expansion joint allows panels to move independently of each other but again, those are usually designed to be done at install.
I’m very skeptical any effort to “control” cracking in mature concrete will be worth the effort. Repairs, certainly
a full depth expansion joint allows panels to move independently of each other but again, those are usually designed to be done at install.
I’m very skeptical any effort to “control” cracking in mature concrete will be worth the effort. Repairs, certainly
Posted on 5/4/25 at 9:17 pm to GeauxldMember
I work for a very reputable local concrete coating company (OCC). I am not saying that you cannot accomplish this as a diy project, but it is very challenging.
A few things to consider.
Prep: Do not let any grinder dust get into your pool. Make sure to mask off the whole thing.
Do not attempt a coating within 2 ish days of a rainfall. Hydrostatic moisture pressure will cause a coating to fail. Especially any epoxy.
As far as addressing the cracks you may not actually have to stitch with carbon fiber. It depends on a few things. (Post photos and I’ll give advice)
Are any cracks unlevel? One side higher than the other?
I absolutely do not suggest epoxy around your pool unless it is covered. Epoxy is not UV staple and will fade/yellow and crack within 4-5 years.
Additionally, your average box store epoxy is really not worth the box it comes in.
-We put zero expressed or implied warranties on any epoxy application. We expect it to fail.
That said, I absolutely would recommend a polyurea-polyaspartic system for what you are describing.
Polyurea uses the moisture within concrete to activate. Therefore I suggest knowing your moisture content prior to attempting this.
Poly/poly systems can be very difficult on certain scopes of work.
If you are in the Baton Rouge General area I would come look at your project for free and offer you advice. You don’t even need to get a quote from me (unless you’d like).
A few things to consider.
Prep: Do not let any grinder dust get into your pool. Make sure to mask off the whole thing.
Do not attempt a coating within 2 ish days of a rainfall. Hydrostatic moisture pressure will cause a coating to fail. Especially any epoxy.
As far as addressing the cracks you may not actually have to stitch with carbon fiber. It depends on a few things. (Post photos and I’ll give advice)
Are any cracks unlevel? One side higher than the other?
I absolutely do not suggest epoxy around your pool unless it is covered. Epoxy is not UV staple and will fade/yellow and crack within 4-5 years.
Additionally, your average box store epoxy is really not worth the box it comes in.
-We put zero expressed or implied warranties on any epoxy application. We expect it to fail.
That said, I absolutely would recommend a polyurea-polyaspartic system for what you are describing.
Polyurea uses the moisture within concrete to activate. Therefore I suggest knowing your moisture content prior to attempting this.
Poly/poly systems can be very difficult on certain scopes of work.
If you are in the Baton Rouge General area I would come look at your project for free and offer you advice. You don’t even need to get a quote from me (unless you’d like).
Posted on 5/5/25 at 8:45 am to Roux22
Thanks for the info. I’m in NOLA area.
Just to clarify, I’m not considering an epoxy or polyurea covering on the pool deck. When I referenced epoxy and polyurea I meant the two part systems for crack repair and/or stitching. For the surface, I’ll likely do something like Cool Deck. I may even spray on a knock down overlay on the concrete and do a DIY Cool for Pool if the cool deck guys out there still think $8-10/sqft is reasonable for that product.
This is the only one that is unlevel. There’s maybe a 3/16” offset at most. Been like that for at least 5-6 years now and I haven’t noticed any movement. It’s also the widest of the cracks, but it’s only about 2.5’ long.
Here are the rest. Nothing terrible (other than the stained, scored concrete).
quote:
I absolutely do not suggest epoxy around your pool unless it is covered. Epoxy is not UV staple and will fade/yellow and crack within 4-5 years.
Just to clarify, I’m not considering an epoxy or polyurea covering on the pool deck. When I referenced epoxy and polyurea I meant the two part systems for crack repair and/or stitching. For the surface, I’ll likely do something like Cool Deck. I may even spray on a knock down overlay on the concrete and do a DIY Cool for Pool if the cool deck guys out there still think $8-10/sqft is reasonable for that product.

quote:
Post photos and I’ll give advice
quote:
Are any cracks unlevel? One side higher than the other?
This is the only one that is unlevel. There’s maybe a 3/16” offset at most. Been like that for at least 5-6 years now and I haven’t noticed any movement. It’s also the widest of the cracks, but it’s only about 2.5’ long.

Here are the rest. Nothing terrible (other than the stained, scored concrete).




Posted on 5/5/25 at 10:25 am to GeauxldMember
it also looks like they didnt leave the proper space between your coping tile and the pool deck. Also the small expansion joint they left isnt sealed so you are letting water get in there. are you having any issues with loose pool coping tiles?
Posted on 5/5/25 at 10:45 am to diat150
quote:
it also looks like they didnt leave the proper space between your coping tile and the pool deck.
It’s pretty much 3/8-1/2” everywhere. Angle of the photo might make it deceiving.
quote:
Also the small expansion joint they left isnt sealed so you are letting water get in there. are you having any issues with loose pool coping tiles?
Yeah, I actually started cutting and pulling all of the older stuff out of there over the weekend. Still a few more feet to go and I’ll re-do it with deck-o-seal this weekend. No issues with pool tiles or coping.
Posted on 5/5/25 at 11:38 am to GeauxldMember
Ok, that is very doable. The first crack I will tell you will absolutely come back unless you reinforce it with a few stitches.
You will not see movement in the crack going forward unless we see major drought or flooding.
I will say that the first photo will likely crack the next time we have a day like today. Starts at 60 and gets to 85 ish degrees. A lot of those products aren’t as pliable as reported.
Cool deck I would advise against greatly. It is hell to clean. It is permeable so it’ll accept and hold moisture with mold/mildew. Cool deck is a good product in theory, just not for our climate. A knock down overlay isn’t a bad solution, but remember an overlay is only as good as the previous substrate.
My office is actually in Luling. We do a Poly-Poly system and I venture to say it would be around $8.75-9 ish. Maybe lower.
We fully back our system for the lifetime of the homeowner.
You will not see movement in the crack going forward unless we see major drought or flooding.
I will say that the first photo will likely crack the next time we have a day like today. Starts at 60 and gets to 85 ish degrees. A lot of those products aren’t as pliable as reported.
Cool deck I would advise against greatly. It is hell to clean. It is permeable so it’ll accept and hold moisture with mold/mildew. Cool deck is a good product in theory, just not for our climate. A knock down overlay isn’t a bad solution, but remember an overlay is only as good as the previous substrate.
My office is actually in Luling. We do a Poly-Poly system and I venture to say it would be around $8.75-9 ish. Maybe lower.
We fully back our system for the lifetime of the homeowner.
Posted on 5/5/25 at 2:10 pm to Roux22
quote:
We do a Poly-Poly system
I assume this is a Polyurea coating, similar in look to Ninja?
Posted on 5/5/25 at 5:38 pm to GeauxldMember
In look, kinda yeah. We do have quite a few more design options.
We both use a Poly poly system. We use American made.
Omega concrete coatings is who I’m with.
We both use a Poly poly system. We use American made.
Omega concrete coatings is who I’m with.
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