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re: 2023 Spring Garden Thread
Posted on 1/5/23 at 11:09 am to PillageUrVillage
Posted on 1/5/23 at 11:09 am to PillageUrVillage
quote:
One thing I’m going to try this year is plant a trap crop of blue hubbard squash. It supposedly has one of the highest levels of cucurbitacin in cucurbit plants, which is what the moths are attracted to.
I’m always hesitant to do this. Feels like I’m just throwing up a neon sign to the target pest saying my backyard is open for business.
quote:
I read all of this on a pumpkin growing forum
Wtf

Before I even think of planting, I’ve got to get rid of my Bermuda grass that has snuck into my beds. The stuff is a beautiful turf but a complete pain in the arse keeping out of my beds. Problem is with tax season coming up and trying to knock out my last CPA exam, my time is extremely limited right now. I also need to finish building out a couple more hive bodies to prep for swarming season.
Maybe it’s time for a career change…
Posted on 1/5/23 at 11:41 am to bluemoons
I am going to give a concerted effort in the fight against vine borers this year as yellow squash is by far my favorite vegetable. I have tried most of the suggested items in the past. I may combine them ALL this season! 

Posted on 1/5/23 at 12:03 pm to BallsEleven
quote:
I’m always hesitant to do this. Feels like I’m just throwing up a neon sign to the target pest saying my backyard is open for business.
I’ve had pretty good results with using sunflowers for this purpose. I find sap sucking insects like stink bugs and leaf footed bugs are more attracted to the sunflowers and I don’t find near as many in my tomatoes. So I believe there is some value to it. I’ll let you know how the blue hubbard experiment goes.
quote:
Wtf
Yes, there are forums dedicated specifically to growing giant pumpkins. And I was actually surprised at the traffic it got.

Anyway, there was some good information there.
ETA: Best of luck with your CPA exam and tax season.

This post was edited on 1/5/23 at 12:05 pm
Posted on 1/5/23 at 12:37 pm to PillageUrVillage
So I moved and have significantly less space.
That said I'll be doing a couple of the following:
Tomatoes:
San Marzano
Striped German
Big Beef Plus
Super Sweet 100
Peppers:
Carmen
Hungarian Hot Wax
Banana Pepper
Fresno
Cucumber:
H19 Little Leaf. Allegedly these take less space.
That said I'll be doing a couple of the following:
Tomatoes:
San Marzano
Striped German
Big Beef Plus
Super Sweet 100
Peppers:
Carmen
Hungarian Hot Wax
Banana Pepper
Fresno
Cucumber:
H19 Little Leaf. Allegedly these take less space.
Posted on 1/6/23 at 11:24 am to fjlee90
I’m probably going to do the following. I want to add some kind of english cucumber that’s a big producer. And figure out if I wanna do yard-longs or blue lake green beans. I’ve heard yard-longs are more for sautéing than boiling.
Tomatoes: Carbon, ArkTraveler, San Marzano, Black Cherry, Rosella, Sun Gold
Peppers: Bell, Shishito, Banana, Aconcagua, Jalapeño
Cucumbers: Sumter or Boston Pickling
Squash: Yellow Crookneck
Beans: yard-longs?
Peas: Knuckle Purple Hull
Carrots: Dragon
Cantaloupe: Israeli
Watermelon: Wilson’s Sweet
Sunflower: Grey-Striped
Tomatoes: Carbon, ArkTraveler, San Marzano, Black Cherry, Rosella, Sun Gold
Peppers: Bell, Shishito, Banana, Aconcagua, Jalapeño
Cucumbers: Sumter or Boston Pickling
Squash: Yellow Crookneck
Beans: yard-longs?
Peas: Knuckle Purple Hull
Carrots: Dragon
Cantaloupe: Israeli
Watermelon: Wilson’s Sweet
Sunflower: Grey-Striped
This post was edited on 1/6/23 at 11:25 am
Posted on 1/6/23 at 4:02 pm to DarthTiger
quote:
Cucumbers: Sumter
I ordered some of these seeds. I normally grow either just Poinsett 76 or just Dasher II. This year I’m growing Poinsett 76, Tendergreen Burpless, and Sumter. I got the one familiar one. But I’m on a “try new things” kick for this year.
Posted on 1/7/23 at 3:18 pm to PillageUrVillage
Y’all should check out sweet success cucumbers. They’re fantastic and don’t require pollination.
I just got my Fred’s Tie Dye seeds in. Rest of the seeds should come in early this week then I’ll start everything. The more I’ve thought about it, I think I’m going to grow in pots and bags this spring so I can really get an idea as to how the spring time sun is at our new place.
The house is in the woods and it’s all old growth, so pretty tall overstory. I cut down every pine that I thought really threatened my house, but the trees that are still there are tall and they block a lot of light. I don’t want to build beds to only have 4 hours of sun a day and then have to move them.
I just got my Fred’s Tie Dye seeds in. Rest of the seeds should come in early this week then I’ll start everything. The more I’ve thought about it, I think I’m going to grow in pots and bags this spring so I can really get an idea as to how the spring time sun is at our new place.
The house is in the woods and it’s all old growth, so pretty tall overstory. I cut down every pine that I thought really threatened my house, but the trees that are still there are tall and they block a lot of light. I don’t want to build beds to only have 4 hours of sun a day and then have to move them.
Posted on 1/7/23 at 8:02 pm to bluemoons
Grow your squash and zucchini in hay bales. The borer can’t survive in it. Takes about 3 weeks to condition the bale, but it’s worth it. This will be my fourth Spring with them and it has been an amazing experience.
Posted on 1/8/23 at 7:41 am to michael corleone
How do you keep the hay bales from being a hot bed of new seeds for weeds in your garden?
Posted on 1/8/23 at 11:57 am to PillageUrVillage
Question for those that use grow lights: is a 2 ft tall frame/stand tall enough to accommodate most all veggies I’d grow? I assume tomatoes would be the only ones that would get super tall. I just want to grow them to transplant stage—2 months maybe. Would a 4 ft one be better?
Posted on 1/8/23 at 7:10 pm to DarthTiger
quote:
is a 2 ft tall frame/stand tall enough to accommodate most all veggies I’d grow?
quote:
I just want to grow them to transplant stage—2 months maybe.
My little homemade frame is about 3’ tall and I don’t think I’ve ever had to move the light all the way to the top. Maybe a little over halfway at most. I’m hesitant to give you advice cause I don’t want it to be the wrong advice. But that has been my experience, so take that information and do with it what you will.
Posted on 1/8/23 at 7:42 pm to DarthTiger
My deal has 25 inches between table top and next level. My lights are on little pulleys so I can raise and lower. I have not had any issues.
Started peppers this evening.
Started peppers this evening.

Posted on 1/9/23 at 4:03 am to PillageUrVillage
quote:
I’m hesitant to give you advice cause I don’t want it to be the wrong advice.

One last question for grow light users: does the plug-in or cord ever get hot while in use? I live in an older house (2 prong outlets throughout) and I’m a bit tentative about leaving something plugged in for so long. Don’t wanna burn the house down for some tomatoes & peppers.

This post was edited on 1/9/23 at 4:10 am
Posted on 1/9/23 at 5:59 am to DarthTiger
quote:
Question for those that use grow lights: is a 2 ft tall frame/stand tall enough to accommodate most all veggies I’d grow? I assume tomatoes would be the only ones that would get super tall. I just want to grow them to transplant stage—2 months maybe. Would a 4 ft one be better?
I use a tool rack in my storage shed in my garage. The shelf that my plants usually go on is probably spaced 1 1/2ft apart. I don't have issues until a few weeks before the tomatoes go in the ground. They usually start touching the light around then and get some crispy ends. If I were to move the shelf a few notches down they would be ok but that shelf holds 2 racks together. I've never had any issues with any other plants.
I would think 2 ft is ok. Worst case scenario, and depending on how big the frame is, you could always just use some shims or bricks to temp raise your frame to buy you a couple of weeks if they start getting too close to the light. Heck, by that time you may find that you need to start transitioning them into the sun anyway.
quote:
One last question for grow light users: does the plug-in or cord ever get hot while in use? I live in an older house (2 prong outlets throughout) and I’m a bit tentative about leaving something plugged in for so long. Don’t wanna burn the house down for some tomatoes & peppers. The led lights themselves stay cool but I’m reading some reviews of various ones and some say the plug-in adapter (or whatever they’re called) can get hot.
I've had an adapter on one of those real cheap LED lights get warm but nothing too crazy. A lot of those are actually USB now so you could always use a higher quality adapter to plug in if you are concerned. I switched to a fluorescent light a few years back and it works great. I put it on a smart plug and let it run 12 + hrs. They make the same thing but LED as well.
Posted on 1/9/23 at 2:24 pm to BallsEleven
quote:
you could always just use some shims or bricks to temp raise your frame
I’m embarrassed I didn’t think of that.

Thanks for the info fellas.
Posted on 1/9/23 at 2:27 pm to DarthTiger
so yall are seeding plants right now? peppers and tomatoes?
Posted on 1/9/23 at 2:52 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
so yall are seeding plants right now? peppers and tomatoes?
Yep. I started peppers about a week ago. Finally have some sprouting as of yesterday. I’ll be starting tomatoes and eggplant this weekend.
Posted on 1/9/23 at 3:00 pm to PillageUrVillage
well 10/4 ill get mine in tonight. as im going to the hospital Wednesday for kid 3.
Im planting tomatos, peppers, cucumbers, squash, bristle sprouts, carrots, beans, and peas. Should i seed the cucumbers, squash and bristle sprouts? i know the others should be direct sowed.
Im planting tomatos, peppers, cucumbers, squash, bristle sprouts, carrots, beans, and peas. Should i seed the cucumbers, squash and bristle sprouts? i know the others should be direct sowed.
This post was edited on 1/9/23 at 3:23 pm
Posted on 1/9/23 at 3:38 pm to CarRamrod
Cucumbers and squash are better being direct sowed. Cucurbits do not like having their roots disturbed, so transplanting can be risky.
Brussel sprouts I’ve only ever grown in the fall. So I don’t know the best course for a spring planting.
ET: Although, for squash I was considering maybe starting some a couple weeks before the last frost date to get a head start. I’d be interested to hear what some others that grow squash regularly usually do.
Brussel sprouts I’ve only ever grown in the fall. So I don’t know the best course for a spring planting.
ET: Although, for squash I was considering maybe starting some a couple weeks before the last frost date to get a head start. I’d be interested to hear what some others that grow squash regularly usually do.
This post was edited on 1/9/23 at 3:40 pm
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