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$1700 to replace the burned up motor in my pond irrigation pump

Posted on 5/23/26 at 3:54 pm
Posted by CAD703X
Liberty Island
Member since Jul 2008
94234 posts
Posted on 5/23/26 at 3:54 pm
I'm irritated because it was fine when they closed the system for winter. 2 can-kickers from the irrigation company came out this spring and couldn't get the system up and not my usual guy so I'm wondering if they did something to screw it up.

It's a heavy bitch (see below) and I know it's pretty powerful because it has to feed 80 heads that are up a steep hill from the pond but does that sound right?

I have no idea what's entailed in a job like this and I can't even make out the model number so I'm going to assume this is reasonable unless someone can tell me otherwise.

Sucks.







What would the home and garden board do?
Posted by Wraytex
San Antonio - Gonzales
Member since Jun 2020
4220 posts
Posted on 5/23/26 at 4:32 pm to
2hp submersible at amazon

I doubt the head and gpm rating on this matches yours but I'd just order something that does match closer from Amazon.
Posted by mtcheral
BR
Member since Oct 2008
2129 posts
Posted on 5/23/26 at 6:02 pm to
Pentair replacement pump

P42BC0010A2-01 HP is the model number

Looks like you can get it for like $750 and replace it yourself. Cut the power to it and wire the new one in place of the old. Cut the power back on. They are charging you $1000 plus for that.
This post was edited on 5/23/26 at 6:06 pm
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
50226 posts
Posted on 5/23/26 at 7:46 pm to
CAD if you do it yourself make sure at the butt splices you fill each connector with dialectic grease and cover each splice with marine heat shrink tubing
Posted by CAD703X
Liberty Island
Member since Jul 2008
94234 posts
Posted on 5/23/26 at 8:20 pm to
The part I'm not comfortable with is sinking it back into the pond. It looks like there was a PVC "sleeve" which you can see in the background which I'm guessing helped to keep some of the pond muck out but I don't know how to put it back and how far

quote:

They are charging you $1000 plus for that.


It's worse than that because they only want to replace the motor. How in the world is that easier than just swapping a $700 pump because I have no idea how old the existing one is. It was there decades before we bought the house.
This post was edited on 5/23/26 at 8:23 pm
Posted by CAD703X
Liberty Island
Member since Jul 2008
94234 posts
Posted on 5/23/26 at 8:21 pm to
quote:

CAD if you do it yourself make sure at the butt splices you fill each connector with dialectic grease and cover each splice with marine heat shrink tubing
love dielectric grease! Marine heat shrink huh? Sounds like it's made for long periods of time underwater.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
50226 posts
Posted on 5/23/26 at 8:50 pm to
Yes, water tight
Posted by Spankum
The Sip
Member since Jan 2007
62903 posts
Posted on 5/23/26 at 11:40 pm to
CAD, have you checked to see if the pump has power? May be something as simple as a breaker or something….
Posted by 200MPHCOBRA
Member since Nov 2016
518 posts
Posted on 5/24/26 at 7:49 am to
That is a well pump. It is made to fit into a well pipe. There is a motor section and a pump section. All I have seen have the motor section at the bottom to keep the motor cool if it uncovers the pump section. You can buy them separately. Depending on the size they can range into thousands of dollars. . There are many different ratings even for the same horsepower. Some are designed to be inside of a deep well, pumping water up 500, 1000 feet. Others are designed for low head that can deliver large volumes. That is probably what you have.

I've never seen one used in a pond, you have to be sure there is water surrounding the pump pickup at all times or it will burn up. Clogging will kill it. A well service person will know how to solve your issues. If its tripping the breaker the motor probably fried.

We had a well service pull one up from 100 feet down the well bore, swap out the 4" diameter 3 horse motor section with a new one, and reinstall. I think it was about $2000 for everything.

Posted by baseballmind1212
Missouri City
Member since Feb 2011
3410 posts
Posted on 5/24/26 at 7:50 am to
I'd diy.

Shove that pump 20-30' down the sleeve and call it a day. Sleeve is there to keep from leaves debris clogging and burning up the pump. Biggest thing is you want to make sure you push the pump far enough into the pond that it won't run dry during a drought event.

As the previous post said, dielectric grease and marine rated heat shrink is your friend.

Just post the next tinkering job you do with the $1k you save?? your diy posts are awesome.
Posted by Wraytex
San Antonio - Gonzales
Member since Jun 2020
4220 posts
Posted on 5/24/26 at 9:42 am to
quote:

The part I'm not comfortable with is sinking it back into the pond. It looks like there was a PVC "sleeve" which you can see in the background which I'm guessing helped to keep some of the pond muck out but I don't know how to put it back and how far



A neighbor used boat bumpers as floats to suspend his pump just like this about 2 foot below the top of the water, he also fastened a screen cage of rabbit wire around the inlet end held on with a big hose clamp
This post was edited on 5/24/26 at 9:42 am
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