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re: PC Discussion - Gaming, Performance and Enthusiasts
Posted on 8/26/15 at 3:49 pm to Ace Midnight
Posted on 8/26/15 at 3:49 pm to Ace Midnight
quote:
I'm certainly not an expert on cooling or overclocking, but why would you liquid cool a non-overclocked CPU?
It's a closed system, not like I went with a full loop. Just decided to give it a shot, had always used fans for CPUs before.
quote:
I think that's how coolers are supposed to work - take the hot away, bring the cool in - I could be wrong about that, though.
Yeah, I suppose it was just how hot the hose was that surprised me. And the other fan wasn't exactly cool, it was a little warm to the touch too but yeah, I'm pretty sure you're right.
It's still running around 50 degrees. I've only ever noticed performance hits while playing The Witcher 3 for a long time but that shouldn't be enough to cause the temp spike I saw.
This post was edited on 8/26/15 at 3:50 pm
1
Posted on 8/26/15 at 3:53 pm to Tom288
quote:
I suppose it was just how hot the hose was that surprised me.
Weren't you measuring temps approaching 90 degrees C?
That's very close to boiling temp. But, I understand - I'm always surprised (for some reason) at how hot heatsinks and such get.
Posted on 8/26/15 at 3:55 pm to Ace Midnight
quote:
Weren't you measuring temps approaching 90 degrees C?
No I felt the hose, then restarted and saw the 88 degree temp for the first time after it wouldn't boot up due to overheating and sent me to the BIOS menu where I saw the CPU temp.
I've noticed performance stutter during long sessions in The Witcher lately, but haven't thought much of it and everything seemed to be fine otherwise. It's a good thing I decided to restart otherwise I would have gone on not monitoring the temp. Wouldn't have even known there was a problem until it caused a reboot or something.
This post was edited on 8/26/15 at 3:57 pm
Posted on 8/26/15 at 3:57 pm to Tom288
quote:
No I felt the hose, then restarted
Got it. Doesn't seem all that surprising in hindsight.
I'd watch it at rest for a little while longer - maybe monitor before and after a brief session of the game in question and just see if that's resulting in a big spike. If not - maybe there was just a glitch that's resolving.
Posted on 8/26/15 at 4:09 pm to Ace Midnight
Yeah I'm gonna keep an eye on it.
Posted on 8/26/15 at 6:29 pm to Tom288
Verified 100% that your pump is working? That's practically the only point of failure in closed loop coolers.
Posted on 8/26/15 at 8:02 pm to ILikeLSUToo
How would I do that? The unit seems to be running and the Pump RPMs are registering around 2305 on Corsair's Link software, so from that it looks like it's working to me but I couldn't say for sure.
Posted on 8/26/15 at 9:31 pm to Tom288
Sounds like it's working. I'd do a repaste, and also just try the stock cooler to rule out the Corsair cooler. Also remove the fans and blow out the radiator with compressed air. Are the fans intake or exhaust?
EDIT: Google seems to suggest possible impeller separating from shaft in the pump, which would mean the pump is "working" but not moving liquid. Apparently that's a thing that happens to those pumps. So RMA might be the next step.
EDIT: Google seems to suggest possible impeller separating from shaft in the pump, which would mean the pump is "working" but not moving liquid. Apparently that's a thing that happens to those pumps. So RMA might be the next step.
This post was edited on 8/26/15 at 9:37 pm
Posted on 8/27/15 at 5:54 am to ILikeLSUToo
It acted up again around 3am this morning, rebooted and wouldn't start up. I shut it off and let it rest for a couple of hours. Since starting it up it's been running at ~38-41 degrees and the H100i temps have gone down from the mid-50's to 32 degrees. Maybe I'll get lucky and it was just acting up and needed a break?
I haven't attempted to play The Witcher 3 and long-duration sessions have really been what's taxed it, but I may try playing short sessions throughout the day and continue to monitor the temps. If I start having problems again I may take it in to have it looked at.
The fans are acting as exhaust fans; I do get a good bit more airflow coming out of the rear fan at the top of the case than I do the front.
I've blown out everything but the radiator, so I might give that a shot too just to be on the safe side.
I've had a question about my fan setup and was wondering what your thoughts are. I currently have a Corsair 760T with 2 front intake fans, 1 rear exhaust fan, and then the Corsair H100i is connected to 4 fans mounted at the top of the case acting as an exhaust. I'm not familiar with the benefits of positive/negative air pressure setups and stuff, but do you think running the fans mounted to the top of the case as intake fans as well and only using the rear fan as the exhaust would work better? Would that be more of a "positive pressure" setup or something?
In any case, I'm continuing to monitor temps and have my fingers crossed that this doesn't turn into anything serious.
Appreciate the help.
ETA:
Thanks, is there any way to determine whether or not it's moving liquid like it should?
I haven't attempted to play The Witcher 3 and long-duration sessions have really been what's taxed it, but I may try playing short sessions throughout the day and continue to monitor the temps. If I start having problems again I may take it in to have it looked at.
The fans are acting as exhaust fans; I do get a good bit more airflow coming out of the rear fan at the top of the case than I do the front.
I've blown out everything but the radiator, so I might give that a shot too just to be on the safe side.
I've had a question about my fan setup and was wondering what your thoughts are. I currently have a Corsair 760T with 2 front intake fans, 1 rear exhaust fan, and then the Corsair H100i is connected to 4 fans mounted at the top of the case acting as an exhaust. I'm not familiar with the benefits of positive/negative air pressure setups and stuff, but do you think running the fans mounted to the top of the case as intake fans as well and only using the rear fan as the exhaust would work better? Would that be more of a "positive pressure" setup or something?
In any case, I'm continuing to monitor temps and have my fingers crossed that this doesn't turn into anything serious.
Appreciate the help.
ETA:
quote:
EDIT: Google seems to suggest possible impeller separating from shaft in the pump, which would mean the pump is "working" but not moving liquid. Apparently that's a thing that happens to those pumps. So RMA might be the next step.
Thanks, is there any way to determine whether or not it's moving liquid like it should?
This post was edited on 8/27/15 at 5:57 am
Posted on 8/27/15 at 8:36 am to Tom288
Positive pressure is best if the case is well filtered. Radiator fans are best as intake (again, with dust filters), but it does put more heat inside the case when you do that, which may not be the best thing for an air-cooled GPU. Probably doesn't matter since nothing is overclocked.
I'd say if you are still getting temp spikes and can verify the radiator fins aren't clogged with dust, your fans are spinning, and your block is still solidly mounted, then something's gone wrong with the pump.
quote:
Thanks, is there any way to determine whether or not it's moving liquid like it should?
I'd say if you are still getting temp spikes and can verify the radiator fins aren't clogged with dust, your fans are spinning, and your block is still solidly mounted, then something's gone wrong with the pump.
Posted on 8/27/15 at 2:38 pm to ILikeLSUToo
So far it's been running just fine today. It got up to between 65-70 degrees while playing The Witcher for an extended period of time, but after having closed out of the game it's quickly dropping back down and is now at 55 degrees. This morning it was running between ~38-42 so it's been doing well so far today. I'm gonna continue to keep an eye on it. The pump was also running around that same range whereas yesterday when it was overheating it was in the mid-50's to low 60's. I'll be stoked if it was just some fluke thing, but not sure what could have caused it to act up.
Separate question: Anyone have any good recommendations for a nice set of speakers? I ran a 5.1 system before and it wasn't worth it, damn sub got on my nerves too. So I'm just looking at getting a nice 2.0 setup and then maybe getting a good pair of headphones (looking at the HyperX or Audio-Technica ATH-M50x so far).
Also, my monitor is on the way out. It was never a gaming monitor, just a regular HP running at 59hz, 1920x1200. Any recommendations for a moderately priced 24-27" monitor? I've been looking at the Asus VG248QE which runs at 144hz at 1920x1080 for $239 on Amazon. Seems like the best bang for the buck as I'm not sure the price difference is worth the added screen space if I go with a 27" and I don't want to pay a ton of money for G-sync or anything like that. If anyone has a monitor with it do you find that it's worth the extra money?
But yeah, just some peripheral recommendations (speakers, headphones, monitor) if you guys got 'em. I'd appreciate it.
Separate question: Anyone have any good recommendations for a nice set of speakers? I ran a 5.1 system before and it wasn't worth it, damn sub got on my nerves too.
So I'm just looking at getting a nice 2.0 setup and then maybe getting a good pair of headphones (looking at the HyperX or Audio-Technica ATH-M50x so far). Also, my monitor is on the way out. It was never a gaming monitor, just a regular HP running at 59hz, 1920x1200. Any recommendations for a moderately priced 24-27" monitor? I've been looking at the Asus VG248QE which runs at 144hz at 1920x1080 for $239 on Amazon. Seems like the best bang for the buck as I'm not sure the price difference is worth the added screen space if I go with a 27" and I don't want to pay a ton of money for G-sync or anything like that. If anyone has a monitor with it do you find that it's worth the extra money?
But yeah, just some peripheral recommendations (speakers, headphones, monitor) if you guys got 'em. I'd appreciate it.
This post was edited on 8/27/15 at 2:40 pm
Posted on 8/27/15 at 3:28 pm to Tom288
If the pump is constantly working, the radiator is clean of dust, and the fans are spinning... everything on the cooler side is fine. Exhaust vs Intake on the radiator shouldn't make enough of a difference to be your problem.
Possible problems, or combination of problems are then likely to be:
1. The heat sink isn't properly seated, or the thermal past has been applied improperly (too much, too little).
2. The pump is cutting out intermittently.
3. Faulty sensor diode on the motherboard.
The solution to number 1 is obvious, and since you seem to be having problems, maybe you can take the time to re-paste and re-seat the heatsink to see if it helps. Demount and clean the paste off of the CPU and the heatsink with a high percent iso alcohol. Make sure you get it all off. Purchase (or if you already have some) a higher quality paste and apply is as per the instructions. Whatever you do, don't apply it with your fingers. The grease from your fingers will pretty much screw the whole thing up. Remount everything and insure everything is solid, and all screws are properly tightened.
The solution to number 2 would be to replace the unit. It might be more difficult to figure out if that's actually the problem, as your computer shuts down to protect itself when it overheats, and when you restart, the pump may restart fine on its own as well. The corsair closed loop systems, while highly convenient are prone to fail just like any other part of your computer. You could always plug it into a PSU outside of your case and leave it running and monitor it constantly... if you're a man of extreme patience.
The solution to number 3 would be RMA, or a new board. Usually if a diode goes bad, it stays bad. That leads me to believe that the sensor diodes are fine, but you never know.
Good luck man.
Possible problems, or combination of problems are then likely to be:
1. The heat sink isn't properly seated, or the thermal past has been applied improperly (too much, too little).
2. The pump is cutting out intermittently.
3. Faulty sensor diode on the motherboard.
The solution to number 1 is obvious, and since you seem to be having problems, maybe you can take the time to re-paste and re-seat the heatsink to see if it helps. Demount and clean the paste off of the CPU and the heatsink with a high percent iso alcohol. Make sure you get it all off. Purchase (or if you already have some) a higher quality paste and apply is as per the instructions. Whatever you do, don't apply it with your fingers. The grease from your fingers will pretty much screw the whole thing up. Remount everything and insure everything is solid, and all screws are properly tightened.
The solution to number 2 would be to replace the unit. It might be more difficult to figure out if that's actually the problem, as your computer shuts down to protect itself when it overheats, and when you restart, the pump may restart fine on its own as well. The corsair closed loop systems, while highly convenient are prone to fail just like any other part of your computer. You could always plug it into a PSU outside of your case and leave it running and monitor it constantly... if you're a man of extreme patience.
The solution to number 3 would be RMA, or a new board. Usually if a diode goes bad, it stays bad. That leads me to believe that the sensor diodes are fine, but you never know.
Good luck man.
This post was edited on 8/27/15 at 3:30 pm
Posted on 8/27/15 at 3:43 pm to TimTheTiger
I'm about 99.9% sure now that it's problem 2.
Posted on 8/27/15 at 3:59 pm to ILikeLSUToo
Bought a 6700K at Microcenter this morning....going to go pick it up here in an hour. 
Posted on 8/27/15 at 5:14 pm to taylork37
a gtx 760 for $80 on craigslist is a decent price right?
Posted on 8/27/15 at 5:14 pm to ILikeLSUToo
quote:
I'm about 99.9% sure now that it's problem 2.
I'm going to agree with you as well. It's just too common of a problem with a lot of these asetek based closed loop systems. I'm not not poo-pooing them all together, because I haven't had any problems with the 3 that I've been using over the past few years.
Posted on 8/27/15 at 5:15 pm to bluebarracuda
I'd say offer $60. Unless specified, you have no idea what condition it's been working in (smoker with pets?). Buying used computer hardware is a bit like buying a car from one of those tiny curbside car lots. You just never know.
This post was edited on 8/27/15 at 5:16 pm
Posted on 8/28/15 at 8:48 am to TimTheTiger
quote:
The solution to number 2 would be to replace the unit. It might be more difficult to figure out if that's actually the problem, as your computer shuts down to protect itself when it overheats, and when you restart, the pump may restart fine on its own as well. The corsair closed loop systems, while highly convenient are prone to fail just like any other part of your computer. You could always plug it into a PSU outside of your case and leave it running and monitor it constantly... if you're a man of extreme patience.
Thanks. I'll continue to monitor it and if I keep experiencing problems I'll go ahead and replace the unit.
Posted on 8/28/15 at 1:48 pm to Tom288
Pump is starting to act up again today and due to the intermittent nature of the problem I agree with the above poster; I think the pump is just starting to go out randomly.
Does Corsair cover a replacement under warranty (if anyone knows)?
In either case, I'm looking at possible replacement coolers. I looked at the H100iGTX which seems to have reviewed well and would perfectly fit the 4 fan setup I have connected now to my H100i. But I was wondering what you guys would recommend? If anything, as far as overclocking goes, I'd use the built-in Intel system that might bump my 3770k up from 3.5 to 3.9, so overclocking isn't a factor. Would I be better off going with a fan cooler?
I used to use the Hyper 212 but had problems with that, noise especially, which is why I went with the H100i for this latest build. But I know there are plenty of other good fan coolers, like the Noctua, etc. Thoughts?
ETA: I mean the CPU is at 40 degrees right now, less than an hour ago it was between 55-60 and topped out at 90 degrees with The Witcher 3 running so there's definitely a problem and it seems like the pump going in and out is the most logical answer, right?
Does Corsair cover a replacement under warranty (if anyone knows)?
In either case, I'm looking at possible replacement coolers. I looked at the H100iGTX which seems to have reviewed well and would perfectly fit the 4 fan setup I have connected now to my H100i. But I was wondering what you guys would recommend? If anything, as far as overclocking goes, I'd use the built-in Intel system that might bump my 3770k up from 3.5 to 3.9, so overclocking isn't a factor. Would I be better off going with a fan cooler?
I used to use the Hyper 212 but had problems with that, noise especially, which is why I went with the H100i for this latest build. But I know there are plenty of other good fan coolers, like the Noctua, etc. Thoughts?
ETA: I mean the CPU is at 40 degrees right now, less than an hour ago it was between 55-60 and topped out at 90 degrees with The Witcher 3 running so there's definitely a problem and it seems like the pump going in and out is the most logical answer, right?
This post was edited on 8/28/15 at 1:50 pm
Posted on 8/28/15 at 3:23 pm to Tom288
quote:
Does Corsair cover a replacement under warranty (if anyone knows)?
Yes
quote:
I'd use the built-in Intel system that might bump my 3770k up from 3.5 to 3.9, so overclocking isn't a factor.
Probably a typo, but since you called it a 3770K earlier as well, I want to point out that I'm pretty sure you have a 4770K. I remember your build vividly.
quote:
Would I be better off going with a fan cooler?
Not necessarily, especially since Corsair is going to replace your H100i under warranty. However, there are far fewer points of failure in an air cooler, if you're looking for peace of mind. Since you don't overclock, you'll get very little benefit from the giant heatsink/fan combos. You should just aim for silence. That's easily accomplished with a Hyper 212 and a different fan for it, like a Corsiar SP120 Quiet Edition or Noctua NF-F12. Or go non-PWM with a Gentle Typhoon and set it at a fixed speed. I am running 9 Gentle Typhoons in my case at a fixed 1000 rpms, and it's about 15-17db. Hyper 212s with the stock fan aren't amazingly quiet, but they shouldn't be noisy at all on a stock-clock CPU unless the fan curve is set too aggressively.
You could add any of those above-mentioned fans to a liquid cooler as well, as stock radiator fans on all-in-ones tend to be loud at higher rpms.
quote:
there's definitely a problem and it seems like the pump going in and out is the most logical answer, right?
Yes
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