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3
Posted on 2/26/19 at 10:04 am to CarRamrod
quote:
got my Tilt in.
Those things are very cool.
So, previously, someone posted some device to trap CO2 for use when cold crashing, but reviews of teh device stated that it didn't really work. I recently joined some home wine making groups on facebook, and saw that some winemakers simply fill up a balloon and attach that to the top of the carboy, or, put a closed stopper on the carboy, preventing O2 from being pulled into the fermenter. Of course, these people weren't cold crashing their wine. So i'm wondering, if any of these methods would work when cold crashing? Maybe fitting a large balloon around the top of an airlock, and then fill that balloon with CO2 should, theoretically, work, shouldn't it?
ETA: From google search, this was suggested
quote:
Use a Mylar balloon that won’t require pressure to inflate. Install it on the airlock when you still have a few gravity points to go then let the completing fermentation inflate it. When you cold crash, the balloon will deflate without exposing your beer to anything other than the CO2 it produces. I can’t take credit for this idea but it will work.
This post was edited on 2/26/19 at 10:06 am
Posted on 2/26/19 at 10:20 am to BugAC
that was me. this is what you should do. being 50 bucks i think i could build one for nothing with parts i have. thats what i would do. i have a tond of grommets.
norcal store
youtube
norcal store
youtube
Posted on 2/26/19 at 10:33 am to CarRamrod
That's pretty slick. But aren't you still sucking in what's in the airlock, into one of your jars? When the airlock is depleted, wouldn't oxygen get sucked in those jars as well?
Posted on 2/26/19 at 10:45 am to CarRamrod
quote:
wing Thread: Volume II
got my Tilt in. getting a Pi setup to monitor it until i get my how fermentation controller set up.
I have gone down the rabbit hole with my Tilt and Pi setup. At first, I set up TiltPi to monitor the gravity reading from the Tilt. That by itself is great.
Then I discovered Brewstat.us. You can upload, track, and share beers that you have made. This is one that I recently did. You can play with the slider at the bottom of the graph to change the view range of the chart.
After I got that going, I decided to upgrade my fermentation chamber with a BrewPi setup. In doing research, I discovered Fermentrack. Fermentrack is built on top of BrewPi, but it has some extra features that are nice. The two biggest features are that it has support for Tilt hydrometer and allows for control of multiple fermentation chambers. Fermentrack also allows you to easily set fermentation schedules. The developer has said that one of the future features will be the ability to control the fermentation temperature based on gravity readings from the Tilt. You should be able to hold your fermentation temperature until you hit a desired level of attenuation and then incrementally increase the temperature until fermentation is complete. I have done two beers so far with Fermentrack and am loving it so far.
Posted on 2/26/19 at 10:55 am to BugAC
quote:
But aren't you still sucking in what's in the airlock, into one of your jars?
Assuming that you have 1 gallon of head space in your fermenter, cold crashing from 70°F to 35°F will give you about 9 fluid ounces of air suck back. One of those mason jars is about 8 ounces, so I would think that setup would work fine.
I also like how you can capture the krausen.
Posted on 2/26/19 at 10:57 am to Bleed P&G
quote:i have been active on HBT with those guys. they got my RaspberryPints flowmeters all set up and now working on my fermentrack/brewpi setup to control my keezer then to wirelessly control other fermentation chambers.
After I got that going, I decided to upgrade my fermentation chamber with a BrewPi setup. In doing research, I discovered Fermentrack. Fermentrack is built on top of BrewPi, but it has some extra features that are nice
This post was edited on 2/26/19 at 11:01 am
Posted on 2/26/19 at 10:58 am to Bleed P&G
quote:during fermentation both of those jars are flushed with CO2. upon crashing co2 is sucked back into the fermentor from one jar, and the liquid from the other jar is replaced.
But aren't you still sucking in what's in the airlock, into one of your jars?
Assuming that you have 1 gallon of head space in your fermenter, cold crashing from 70°F to 35°F will give you about 9 fluid ounces of air suck back. One of those mason jars is about 8 ounces, so I would think that setup would work fine.
Posted on 2/26/19 at 1:40 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
during fermentation both of those jars are flushed with CO2. upon crashing co2 is sucked back into the fermentor from one jar, and the liquid from the other jar is replaced.
Yeah, but if you watch the video, the liquid in the airlock is being sucked into the jars. Once that liquid is gone, its sucking in Oxygen. The O2 will displace throughout the jar, and you're still sucking in O2. Or am i not seeing something?
Posted on 2/26/19 at 1:42 pm to BugAC
I have read it will suck oxygen in.
I just bought that sight glass yeast break. Will be testing out the dry hop capabilities in the next 24 hours.
I just bought that sight glass yeast break. Will be testing out the dry hop capabilities in the next 24 hours.
This post was edited on 2/26/19 at 1:50 pm
Posted on 2/26/19 at 1:55 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
got my Tilt in.
I'm fermenting my first beer with it right now. LINK
quote:
getting a Pi setup to monitor it until i get my how fermentation controller set up.
Considering getting a pi as well but for now, checking the SG a couple of times a day manually works pretty well.
Posted on 2/26/19 at 2:06 pm to BugAC
quote:i believe you are just seeing him sucking. lol
n. The O2 will displace throughout the jar, and you're still sucking in O2. Or am i not seeing something?
i think you really would have the 2nd jar(airlock) almost filled with water. so when the fermentor is sucking air back in it will only transfer the liquid into jar 1. not continue to pull untill it is bringing air from jar 2.
Posted on 2/26/19 at 2:24 pm to MountainTiger
While we are discussing the Tilt, have any of you notice problems with dry hopping? I have used the Tilt on 3 beers. The first two, a barleywine and porter, the Tilt worked great. I currently have it in a NEIPA and have had less consistent readings. You can see the two big drops where I had the two dry hop additions. You can also see that the gravity fluctuations have been larger after the first dry hop addition.
Posted on 2/26/19 at 2:31 pm to Bleed P&G
Yes. I posted a graph some pages back showing dry hopping affecting gravity temporarily. My tilt was slower to get going this time. Had to correct the gravity reading compared with a hydrometer/refractometer confirmed number. The temperature also took a while to stabilize. Seems to be working fine now although I will see at the end of fermentation whether it is giving me correct readings as I had airlock activity within 36 hours but the Tilt gravity readings stayed the same.
Posted on 2/26/19 at 3:06 pm to USEyourCURDS
I have no explanation but out of curiosity, loose hops or bagged, whole or pellet?
Posted on 2/26/19 at 3:10 pm to MountainTiger
Loose pellets. I attributed it to increased krausen but who knows.
Posted on 2/26/19 at 3:29 pm to USEyourCURDS
the krausen should affect the tilts position. BUT having all that hop particle on top of the surface will affect the why the tilt floats. which is why you wii get some mest up readings. the tilt reads the angle it is floating at and that correlates to buoyancy and the SG of the liquid it is in. So anything on the surface that would affect that, will give you bad readings.
Posted on 2/26/19 at 3:49 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
BUT having all that hop particle on top of the surface will affect the why the tilt floats.
Yeah this makes sense. I'd say it's probably a bigger factor than the krausen because you don't get those noisy readings at the beginning of fermentation when the krausen is much bigger. Maybe bagging the pellets would give better readings.
Posted on 2/27/19 at 7:55 am to MountainTiger
Interesting read in Brew Your Own Magazine this month on hopping. Article was written by Scott Janish, who i posted about before, and sort of coincides with Bmoney's brulosophy link. In the article, like in the link, it states that dry hop amounts, depending on hop varietal, should not be greater than 4 oz. What i wasn't sure about, though, is that it spoke about multiple dry hops, and i wasn't clear if they were meaning 4 oz. per dry hop, or 4 oz. for the entire dry hop. Either way, i'm currently dry hopping with 1 dose, at around 3.5 to 4 oz.
One of the other things i took from it was in regards to the whirlpool hop. I've been whilrpooling around 165-170 for 20-30 minutes, but if i read this correctly, the article states that whilrpooling at 203 (at flameout) gave the greatest amount of citrus character, whereas whirlpooling at 185 gave more of a floral character, and 165 produced the least amount of these flavors, but favored more of a woodsy profile. I need to read that section again because that goes against everything i've read, that whirlpool hops should be added below 170 so the alpha acids do not isomerize and contribute bitterness, but i also assumed the hop oils would dissipate at too high a temp. So maybe, in order to get more citrus, whirlpool should begin at flameout.
Anyone else read the article?
One of the other things i took from it was in regards to the whirlpool hop. I've been whilrpooling around 165-170 for 20-30 minutes, but if i read this correctly, the article states that whilrpooling at 203 (at flameout) gave the greatest amount of citrus character, whereas whirlpooling at 185 gave more of a floral character, and 165 produced the least amount of these flavors, but favored more of a woodsy profile. I need to read that section again because that goes against everything i've read, that whirlpool hops should be added below 170 so the alpha acids do not isomerize and contribute bitterness, but i also assumed the hop oils would dissipate at too high a temp. So maybe, in order to get more citrus, whirlpool should begin at flameout.
Anyone else read the article?
Posted on 2/27/19 at 8:41 am to BugAC
Interesting. Unfortunately I can't whirlpool at 203 because water boils at 201 here.
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