- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Posted on 10/23/17 at 3:29 pm to Bleed P&G
Posted on 10/23/17 at 3:29 pm to Bleed P&G
quote:
IMO, the only trick with March pumps is that they have to be primed, so you will need to take that into account.
Yep, and believe me you never want to hear what they sound like if you let them run dry.
The procedure (depending on what you're pumping to) is to connect the hose from the drain of the tun to the inlet of the pump. Connect another hose to the outlet of the pump and leave the other end open for now. OPen the outlet valve on the pump. Open the drain valve on the tun. Wort/water should now gravity feed out the open end of the second hose. Shut off the pump valve. Now you've got fluid in your open hose so connect that to where ever it goes and then open up the pump valve again, fire up the pump and you should be GTG.
This post was edited on 10/23/17 at 5:27 pm
1
Posted on 10/23/17 at 3:59 pm to Bleed P&G
quote:
only trick with March pumps is that they have to be primed, so you will need to take that into account.
What about Chugger pumps? They are magnetic drive, have good reviews, and are about $30 cheaper.
Posted on 10/23/17 at 4:02 pm to MountainTiger
quote:
The procedure (depending on what you're pumping to) is to connect the hose from the drain of the tun to the inlet of the pump. Connect another hose to the outlet of the pump and leave the other end open for now. Close the outlet valve on the pump. Open the drain valve on the tun. Wort/water should now gravity feed out the open end of the second hose. Shut off the pump valve. Now you've got fluid in your open hose so connect that to where ever it goes and then open up the pump valve again, fire up the pump and you should be GTG.
Sounds easy enough. You're building up fluid so when you kick on the pump you're not pulling on air for a second or 2 before the wort gets to the pump. This way it keeps everything fluid. Thanks for the tip, i definitely wouldn't have thought about that when i first started.
Kind of excited to pump. I may actually go ahead and buy the pump first. I like being able to constantly recirculate during the mash. However, not sure if i'll be able to hold temps if i'm trying into a 10 gallon cooler. No direct heat.
This post was edited on 10/23/17 at 4:10 pm
Posted on 10/23/17 at 5:22 pm to BugAC
I just re-read what I wrote and there's a mistake in there. After you connect the hoses, open the valve on the tun then open the valve on the pump to let the fluid gravity feed and fill up the hoses and pump impeller housing. Then close the pump valve, connect the open end of the hose, open the valve and start the pump.
It's a little bit more complicated than that if you're going through something else in the middle like a plate chiller for example. But the concept is the same. Get all of the air out of the system as much as you can.
It's a little bit more complicated than that if you're going through something else in the middle like a plate chiller for example. But the concept is the same. Get all of the air out of the system as much as you can.
This post was edited on 10/23/17 at 5:28 pm
Posted on 10/23/17 at 6:07 pm to BugAC
quote:
What about Chugger pumps? They are magnetic drive, have good reviews, and are about $30 cheaper.
They're good pumps but they're not self-priming either.
Posted on 10/25/17 at 5:20 pm to MountainTiger
Bootleg Biology presale for all you sour/funky brewers. They also have some clean sach strains as well.
Ordered the sour weapon combo. I've used the Sour Weapon P. a couple times. Really great for quick souring and long aged. Haven't used the Sour Lacto yet. May pitch both together in my next mixed ferm batch.
Also ordered the Chardonnay (S. cerevisiae boulardii) which is a sach strain that supposed to throw off a bunch of fruity esters. May use this in a NE style IPA.
Ordered the sour weapon combo. I've used the Sour Weapon P. a couple times. Really great for quick souring and long aged. Haven't used the Sour Lacto yet. May pitch both together in my next mixed ferm batch.
Also ordered the Chardonnay (S. cerevisiae boulardii) which is a sach strain that supposed to throw off a bunch of fruity esters. May use this in a NE style IPA.
Posted on 10/25/17 at 5:29 pm to MountainTiger
quote:
What about Chugger pumps? They are magnetic drive, have good reviews, and are about $30 cheaper.
They're good pumps but they're not self-priming either.
Correct, I have one and it works good. Just have to prime it.
Posted on 10/26/17 at 7:20 am to Zappas Stache
What size pump should i be looking at?
Posted on 10/26/17 at 10:02 am to BugAC
I have this pump. It works just fine.
You will need to add a quick disconnect and coupling to the suction, and a ball valve with another quick disconnect to the discharge. You might need an elbow or two depending on your equipment arrangement.
Right now, I only use the pump for whirl pooling while chilling. I have been toying with the idea of getting a second wort chiller, placing it in my kettle, and recirculating the mash through it. Kind of like doing a pseudo-HERMS.
You will need to add a quick disconnect and coupling to the suction, and a ball valve with another quick disconnect to the discharge. You might need an elbow or two depending on your equipment arrangement.
Right now, I only use the pump for whirl pooling while chilling. I have been toying with the idea of getting a second wort chiller, placing it in my kettle, and recirculating the mash through it. Kind of like doing a pseudo-HERMS.
Posted on 10/26/17 at 10:05 am to BugAC
quote:
What size pump should i be looking at?
Size in terms of the motor? I use a March 815, which is 1/25 HP. The Chugger pumps are the same I believe. The March 809 is 1/100 HP and a lot of homebrewers use those too.
I wish I had a pump that could generate enough pressure to run a spray ball in my conical for CIP purposes. But those are quite a bit more expensive.
Posted on 10/26/17 at 11:00 am to Bleed P&G
quote:
and a ball valve with another quick disconnect to the discharge.
So to manage your flow rate, simply adjust the ball valve? Wouldn't that cause a backup somewhere? Or is the suction offset by the impediment of a ball valve?
Posted on 10/26/17 at 11:12 am to BugAC
quote:
So to manage your flow rate, simply adjust the ball valve? Wouldn't that cause a backup somewhere? Or is the suction offset by the impediment of a ball valve?
You can adjust the flow anywhere downstream of the pump. The pump can take back pressure but you can't let it run dry. Since they use a magnetic impeller, you can even shut the valve completely. So that's why you typically mount a ball valve right to the discharge side of the pump. Always leave valves upstream of the pump wide open.
If I can take any pics of my system that will help you out, let me know.
This post was edited on 10/26/17 at 11:17 am
Posted on 10/26/17 at 11:35 am to MountainTiger
quote:
You can adjust the flow anywhere downstream of the pump. The pump can take back pressure but you can't let it run dry. Since they use a magnetic impeller, you can even shut the valve completely. So that's why you typically mount a ball valve right to the discharge side of the pump. Always leave valves upstream of the pump wide open.
This is accurate.
Posted on 10/26/17 at 11:45 am to BugAC
quote:
What about Chugger pumps? They are magnetic drive, have good reviews, and are about $30 cheaper.
Chuggers are good. Bought a setup and pump from Brewhardware.com for less than $200 and have been very happy with it.
Continuous recirc isn't a problem at all. Just don't run it wide open, maybe a 1/4 blast.
Posted on 10/26/17 at 11:52 am to s14suspense
Bug, a couple of other little tidbits I thought of.
1 - If I remember right, March pumps (not sure about Chugger) come with a power cord installed but they don't have a plug. So you'll have to wire a plug onto it yourself.
2 - When pumping very hot wort (near boiling) the pump can cavitate. The pressure drop causes the wort to boil inside the pump. If that happens, close the outlet valve on the pump a little to restrict the flow.
Good advice. The pump can potentially suck wort out of your MLT faster than it can filter through the grain bed, thus allowing the pump to run dry.
1 - If I remember right, March pumps (not sure about Chugger) come with a power cord installed but they don't have a plug. So you'll have to wire a plug onto it yourself.
2 - When pumping very hot wort (near boiling) the pump can cavitate. The pressure drop causes the wort to boil inside the pump. If that happens, close the outlet valve on the pump a little to restrict the flow.
quote:
Continuous recirc isn't a problem at all. Just don't run it wide open, maybe a 1/4 blast.
Good advice. The pump can potentially suck wort out of your MLT faster than it can filter through the grain bed, thus allowing the pump to run dry.
This post was edited on 10/26/17 at 11:56 am
Posted on 10/26/17 at 12:01 pm to MountainTiger
quote:
You can adjust the flow anywhere downstream of the pump. The pump can take back pressure but you can't let it run dry. Since they use a magnetic impeller, you can even shut the valve completely. So that's why you typically mount a ball valve right to the discharge side of the pump. Always leave valves upstream of the pump wide open.
I got it, thanks. Appreciate the help, everyone.
Posted on 10/26/17 at 1:18 pm to MountainTiger
quote:
If I remember right, March pumps (not sure about Chugger) come with a power cord installed but they don't have a plug.
Chugger has a plug. I plug it into a power strip with an on/off switch since the Chugger doesn't have a switch.
All this talk about fly sparging has me thinking about it for my next brew. The question I have is since you don't have a lid on the kettle, how do you keep your temps up? I can turn on my burner but that is always a crap shoot....I sometimes get the temp too high doing that.
Posted on 10/26/17 at 1:59 pm to Zappas Stache
quote:
All this talk about fly sparging has me thinking about it for my next brew. The question I have is since you don't have a lid on the kettle, how do you keep your temps up? I can turn on my burner but that is always a crap shoot....I sometimes get the temp too high doing that.
With my propane system, when I was fly sparging I didn't worry too much about temps. When the kettle was about half-full I would kick on the burner to try to get it close to boiling by the end of the sparge. Then I discovered batch sparging and never looked back. I've thought about batch sparging with my electric system and I see no reason why I couldn't. I just never have.
Posted on 10/26/17 at 2:14 pm to Zappas Stache
quote:
he question I have is since you don't have a lid on the kettle, how do you keep your temps up? I can turn on my burner but that is always a crap shoot....I sometimes get the temp too high doing that.
Are you trying to keep your temps up during the sparge? On you sparge tank or mash tun?
I'm using the 2 - ea, 10 gallon coolers and a 10 gallon brewpot and i fly sparge. Once i remove the lid to the mash tun, i'm no longer really concerned with keeping up mash temps during the sparge. However, i'm also dealing with insulated plastic. But i wouldn't think mash temps during the sparge is all that important, assuming your sparge water is at 170.
Posted on 10/26/17 at 3:39 pm to BugAC
quote:
On you sparge tank or mash tun?
That's the question....so you don't circulate during your mash?
Page 107 of 277
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News