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Message
1
Posted on 1/8/16 at 7:52 am to Fratastic423
quote:
I'm going to tear the shite out of the American light lager category
I look forward to trying everyone's Michelob Ultra clones.
I really hate the new style guidelines... Bug Light and Gumballhead in the same category makes no sense to me.
Posted on 1/8/16 at 8:21 am to LSUGrad00
Ok, so I've heard ramblings about river cities brew crew hosting a comp.
I am currently not in a club. Do I have to be to enter or is that club specific?
I am currently not in a club. Do I have to be to enter or is that club specific?
Posted on 1/8/16 at 9:29 am to LSURoss
River Cities' competition will be open to all brewers.
Last I heard the competition will be held April 30th. They haven't posted their entire style selection, but I know they mentioned on Facebook that categories 5 & 20 are being accepted.
For reference
Category 5 (Pale European Bitter Beer)
5A. German Leichtbier
5B. Kölsch
5C. German Helles Exportbier
5D. German Pils
Category 20 (American Porter and Stout)
20A. American Porter
20B. American Stout
20C. Imperial Stout
Last I heard the competition will be held April 30th. They haven't posted their entire style selection, but I know they mentioned on Facebook that categories 5 & 20 are being accepted.
For reference
Category 5 (Pale European Bitter Beer)
5A. German Leichtbier
5B. Kölsch
5C. German Helles Exportbier
5D. German Pils
Category 20 (American Porter and Stout)
20A. American Porter
20B. American Stout
20C. Imperial Stout
Posted on 1/8/16 at 10:00 am to LSUGrad00
Just bought a Stanley Growler. If it's anything like the Stanley Pint, then it's going to be awesome. This will come in handy for Endymion.
Also bought a growler/bottle filler tube for my perlick tap. Tired of trying to get that damn tube to stay on the tap with my hands. This thing should make filling easier.
Also bought a growler/bottle filler tube for my perlick tap. Tired of trying to get that damn tube to stay on the tap with my hands. This thing should make filling easier.
Posted on 1/8/16 at 11:13 am to LSUGrad00
quote:
Bug Light and Gumballhead in the same category makes no sense to me.
Hey, if i decide to make light beers, that's my business...
Posted on 1/8/16 at 1:55 pm to LSUGrad00
Cool, I think I know a couple of those guys. Looking forward to it.
In other news:
I've got a half sixtel of tripel that I kegged about 6 months ago. I untapped it to do something and the pin lock stuck open draining 20lb of CO2. I haven't touched it since. I hit the relief on the keg this morning and it's still got pressure.
Is "cellaring" a homebrew in a keg ok? Or do I just need to taste it and move on?
In other news:
I've got a half sixtel of tripel that I kegged about 6 months ago. I untapped it to do something and the pin lock stuck open draining 20lb of CO2. I haven't touched it since. I hit the relief on the keg this morning and it's still got pressure.
Is "cellaring" a homebrew in a keg ok? Or do I just need to taste it and move on?
Posted on 1/8/16 at 6:25 pm to BugAC
I've got that Stanley Pint too and it's great.
Posted on 1/11/16 at 11:35 am to s14suspense
So i've got some sour questions before i brew one. And i'm in the position of listening to too many podcasts and reading too much on the subject to where i don't remember the basics of sour/funk beer making or if my questions were answered already.
First off, my first 2 sour beers will be a brett/lacto saison, and the next will be a dry hopped brett batch. I'd like the saison to be light, with medium levels of sourness (nothing too tart) and some nice brett funk that you know its there, but isn't too overpowering.
My questions (and address these in terms of the lacto/brett saison)
1) At what point do you add your lacto/brett? I've read that adding early on (and i think this in terms of Brett) doesn't produce as much brett funk as adding later. Is the best process to ferment with a sach saison strain (French saison strain), let it ferment out, transfer to secondary then pitch your brett/lacto blend?
2) I was just reading in American Sour Beers last night, in the section talking about wild/spontaneous fermentation, they mentioned that Brett feeds off of the byproducts of autolysized yeast? When brewing a sour/brett ale, is it better to avoid autolysis by racking into a secondary and aging for 6 months to a year, or keep it all in the primary? Or does it matter in a homebrew setting?
3) At what stage do you add the oak? I think i recall somewhere being advised to add oak 6-8 weeks before bottling.
4) I've read that there will be a point in time you get the amount of sourness you want. What do you do once that happens? Is that the step you start bottling? Will that stop the lactic acid production? Or do you change ferment temperatures?
5) Is there a tip to get moderate levels of sourness funk or is it strain dependent? I love Cantillon Classic Gueze, i found it to be the right amount of sourness (had the 2013 batch). I also really enjoyed NOLA's House of the Rising collab, and loved the sourness and brett notes in it as well. Any tips on not producing a sour warhead tart bomb? Does age impact this, or procedure of when the lacto is added?
First off, my first 2 sour beers will be a brett/lacto saison, and the next will be a dry hopped brett batch. I'd like the saison to be light, with medium levels of sourness (nothing too tart) and some nice brett funk that you know its there, but isn't too overpowering.
My questions (and address these in terms of the lacto/brett saison)
1) At what point do you add your lacto/brett? I've read that adding early on (and i think this in terms of Brett) doesn't produce as much brett funk as adding later. Is the best process to ferment with a sach saison strain (French saison strain), let it ferment out, transfer to secondary then pitch your brett/lacto blend?
2) I was just reading in American Sour Beers last night, in the section talking about wild/spontaneous fermentation, they mentioned that Brett feeds off of the byproducts of autolysized yeast? When brewing a sour/brett ale, is it better to avoid autolysis by racking into a secondary and aging for 6 months to a year, or keep it all in the primary? Or does it matter in a homebrew setting?
3) At what stage do you add the oak? I think i recall somewhere being advised to add oak 6-8 weeks before bottling.
4) I've read that there will be a point in time you get the amount of sourness you want. What do you do once that happens? Is that the step you start bottling? Will that stop the lactic acid production? Or do you change ferment temperatures?
5) Is there a tip to get moderate levels of sourness funk or is it strain dependent? I love Cantillon Classic Gueze, i found it to be the right amount of sourness (had the 2013 batch). I also really enjoyed NOLA's House of the Rising collab, and loved the sourness and brett notes in it as well. Any tips on not producing a sour warhead tart bomb? Does age impact this, or procedure of when the lacto is added?
This post was edited on 1/11/16 at 11:36 am
Posted on 1/11/16 at 12:17 pm to BugAC
quote:
1) At what point do you add your lacto/brett? I've read that adding early on (and i think this in terms of Brett) doesn't produce as much brett funk as adding later. Is the best process to ferment with a sach saison strain (French saison strain), let it ferment out, transfer to secondary then pitch your brett/lacto blend?
The timing of lacto / brett additions can change from one beer to the next depending on what you want out of that particular brew.
If you add lacto early you will get a more pronounced sour character. If you add it later, it make take months to get the sour character you want.
I'm not sure about adding early, but 100% brett fermentations tend to have a less funky character than mixed sacro/brett fermentations. Obviously this changes slightly from strain to strain of brett.
I've never brewed a sour with 3711, but that yeast is a beast and leaves almost nothing behind. If you pitch lacto and brett into a beer that's already under 1.005, Im not sure how much character you would get from the bacteria without extended aging.
quote:
2) I was just reading in American Sour Beers last night, in the section talking about wild/spontaneous fermentation, they mentioned that Brett feeds off of the byproducts of autolysized yeast? When brewing a sour/brett ale, is it better to avoid autolysis by racking into a secondary and aging for 6 months to a year, or keep it all in the primary? Or does it matter in a homebrew setting?
I don't think it matters in a homebrew setting.
quote:
3) At what stage do you add the oak? I think i recall somewhere being advised to add oak 6-8 weeks before bottling.
I start tasting at about week four, but 6-8 weeks sounds right to me.
quote:
4) I've read that there will be a point in time you get the amount of sourness you want. What do you do once that happens? Is that the step you start bottling? Will that stop the lactic acid production? Or do you change ferment temperatures?
You can cold crash and transfer off the bacteria, but there will still be some in there and it will continue to develop and change. I'd bottle based on low/stable gravity over a number of weeks.
quote:
5) Is there a tip to get moderate levels of sourness funk or is it strain dependent? I love Cantillon Classic Gueze, i found it to be the right amount of sourness (had the 2013 batch). I also really enjoyed NOLA's House of the Rising collab, and loved the sourness and brett notes in it as well. Any tips on not producing a sour warhead tart bomb? Does age impact this, or procedure of when the lacto is added?
It's strain/bacteria/wort composition dependent.
There are a lot of options (lacto strain, pitch rate, pitch timing, IBU level, souring method) if you want to use lacto and not have a beer get overly tart.
I've used kettle souring a number of times to control just how sour I want the final beer to get. It works well and is easy, but YMMV.
Posted on 1/11/16 at 12:48 pm to LSUGrad00
First off, Thanks for the response.
Secondly,
What does this mean?
3rd, when is the best time to pitch dregs?
4th, based on my descriptions of a moderate level lacto/brett blend, what would be your recommendations for strain type?
I'm reading up on the strains from the madfermentationist.
Would Roselaire be a good one for what i'm looking for? It is mentioned numerous times everywhere i look. The website states it " benefits from additional microbes." Would bottle dregs suffice, or do i need to supplement with something else? Maybe a farmhouse blend that has some brett in addition to sach saison strains?
What about WYEAST WY3278 Lambic Blend? This sentence has me interested "The first pitch makes for a rather tepid lambic, but the blend serves as a solid base for augmenting with bottle dregs."
Should i maybe try something like a Brett Brux combined with the Lambic blend? Maybe pitch a belgian saison strain then after primary fermentation, pitch the lambic strain and the brett and bottle dregs?
Keep in mind, grain bill plans to be 65% pilsen, 35% White Wheat. And also, time isn't a factor. I'm looking forward to brew and forget every 3 months or so, a new sour/funk beer, as long as my kegs stay full. If a keg empty's, i'll be brewing a standard ale or lager.
Secondly,
quote:
but YMMV.
What does this mean?
3rd, when is the best time to pitch dregs?
4th, based on my descriptions of a moderate level lacto/brett blend, what would be your recommendations for strain type?
I'm reading up on the strains from the madfermentationist.
Would Roselaire be a good one for what i'm looking for? It is mentioned numerous times everywhere i look. The website states it " benefits from additional microbes." Would bottle dregs suffice, or do i need to supplement with something else? Maybe a farmhouse blend that has some brett in addition to sach saison strains?
What about WYEAST WY3278 Lambic Blend? This sentence has me interested "The first pitch makes for a rather tepid lambic, but the blend serves as a solid base for augmenting with bottle dregs."
Should i maybe try something like a Brett Brux combined with the Lambic blend? Maybe pitch a belgian saison strain then after primary fermentation, pitch the lambic strain and the brett and bottle dregs?
Keep in mind, grain bill plans to be 65% pilsen, 35% White Wheat. And also, time isn't a factor. I'm looking forward to brew and forget every 3 months or so, a new sour/funk beer, as long as my kegs stay full. If a keg empty's, i'll be brewing a standard ale or lager.
This post was edited on 1/11/16 at 12:50 pm
Posted on 1/11/16 at 1:42 pm to BugAC
YMMV = Your mileage may vary
in my limited experience, I've pitched dregs post primary fermentation with sacro.
Just a heads up, but both Roselaire and Lambic blend contain pediococcus in addition to brett and lacto. If you are using a blend with pediococcus, expect long term aging and a more pronounced sour character than you typical lacto only beer.
Brett Brux would work as would Brett Lambicus.
quote:
3rd, when is the best time to pitch dregs?
in my limited experience, I've pitched dregs post primary fermentation with sacro.
quote:
4th, based on my descriptions of a moderate level lacto/brett blend, what would be your recommendations for strain type?
Just a heads up, but both Roselaire and Lambic blend contain pediococcus in addition to brett and lacto. If you are using a blend with pediococcus, expect long term aging and a more pronounced sour character than you typical lacto only beer.
Brett Brux would work as would Brett Lambicus.
Posted on 1/11/16 at 2:21 pm to LSUGrad00
quote:
If you are using a blend with pediococcus, expect long term aging and a more pronounced sour character than you typical lacto only beer.
Yeah, i dont want too much sourness. Then there is the sick period your beer goes through with pedio.
quote:
Brett Brux would work as would Brett Lambicus.
I was looking at both of those. Does Brett Lambicus sour the beer any?
Posted on 1/11/16 at 2:23 pm to BugAC
quote:
3rd, when is the best time to pitch dregs?
depends on what you want. I pitched dregs into a secondary that was already fermented down with Abbey ale yeast and I anticipate that beer in the secondary for 12-18 months. I also fermented my table beer with only dregs and it was fermented out and ready to drink in 8-10 weeks
eta - at this point I have 3 different dreg cultures going, one that is brett only, one that is Jekster King only, and one that is everything else along with some brett and JK
This post was edited on 1/11/16 at 2:25 pm
Posted on 1/11/16 at 3:34 pm to LoneStarTiger
After some back and forth with the guys on the Milk the Funk facebook page i think i'm going with the following.
OG 1.048
7 lbs Pilsen (BestMälz) (1.8 SRM) Grain 1 61.9 %
4 lbs Wheat (BestMälz) (2.3 SRM) Grain 2 38.1 %
1.00 oz Saaz [3.75 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 3 12.3 IBUs
0.50 oz Saaz [3.75 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 4 3.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg Belgian Saison (Wyeast Labs #3724) [124. Yeast 5 -
1.0 pkg Lactobacillus brevis (Wyeast #5223-PC) Yeast 6 -
1.0 pkg Brettanomyces Bruxellensis (White Labs # Yeast 7 -
OG 1.048
7 lbs Pilsen (BestMälz) (1.8 SRM) Grain 1 61.9 %
4 lbs Wheat (BestMälz) (2.3 SRM) Grain 2 38.1 %
1.00 oz Saaz [3.75 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 3 12.3 IBUs
0.50 oz Saaz [3.75 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 4 3.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg Belgian Saison (Wyeast Labs #3724) [124. Yeast 5 -
1.0 pkg Lactobacillus brevis (Wyeast #5223-PC) Yeast 6 -
1.0 pkg Brettanomyces Bruxellensis (White Labs # Yeast 7 -
Posted on 1/11/16 at 5:10 pm to BugAC
Kegged up a couple batches today and had the biggest trub layer I've ever had. It was from an all Citra IPA, and this is after cold crashing for 2.5 days and fining with gelatin. The cake was very compact and dense.
Posted on 1/11/16 at 9:55 pm to I_heart_beer
Finished up my keezer build this weekend and wanted to share. It is a 10-12cf freezer wired with a STC-1000 temp controller. Only 1 tap and 2 kegs at the moment but will expand when the funds allow it. I have a milk stout now on tap that was my first all grain. Brewed a ipa this weekend also. Artwork courtesy of my girlfriend.
Posted on 1/11/16 at 10:02 pm to Dollar_Bill
That's way nicer than my keezer. Lol 
Posted on 1/12/16 at 6:12 am to BugAC
Really the only way to lock in a pH is to kettle sour. Every other way is hard or expensive to control your final sour levels and you just have to roll with it. The big boys rely upon blending, and some pasteurize, both of which most homebrewers can't do. Pros can (should) be able to afford to dump some if they go wrong or can slowly blend in the super sour stuff with barely tart beer to achieve the levels they want.
I know rolling with it isn't your style, but sometimes just just have to go for it, pitch some bugs, wait, sample, regroup, and try again. I've got a closet full of three batches that are too sour or too under carbed. I learned from those batches and have managed to turn around some better beers since then.
I know rolling with it isn't your style, but sometimes just just have to go for it, pitch some bugs, wait, sample, regroup, and try again. I've got a closet full of three batches that are too sour or too under carbed. I learned from those batches and have managed to turn around some better beers since then.
Posted on 1/12/16 at 8:19 am to Dollar_Bill
That looks great.
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