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re: Ammo reloading questions

Posted on 9/14/21 at 4:26 pm to
Posted by ItsBernie
Louisiana
Member since May 2019
266 posts
Posted on 9/14/21 at 4:26 pm to
I will look into that wet tumbler.

It was stored in his house. The powder is in actual cans and the outside of the tins look new no rust at all, so I am praying all is well with it.
Posted by btrcj
Baton Rouge
Member since Mar 2019
625 posts
Posted on 9/14/21 at 4:36 pm to
Powder and primers should be good. Stored in ammo can should have kept them dry. Heat is another enemy. Where were they stored?

2 types of tumblers. wet and dry. I do wet with SS pins now. I think it is easier and cleans better. Look on YouTube and see which you would like.

As far as buying newer manual it is not a bad idea but I would just look at the power sites and get updated data for now.
Always verify data with published data from a manual or manufacturer's website.
Read the notes you found but verify all loads.

I personally like Lyman manuals for instructions but they are all good.
Be mindful of the safety protocols. Never start with max loads, guard against double charges, verify all data etc.....

Be safe and have fun!!

Posted by bbvdd
Memphis, TN
Member since Jun 2009
25006 posts
Posted on 9/14/21 at 7:04 pm to
quote:

I have a Frankfort stainless steel wet tumbler. If I had to do it all over again I would have went straight to the wet tumbler. Wet tumbling is not even in the same ball park as dry tumbling.


What JD said.

I however do not use pins when loading for precision. Just wet tumble so the outside of the brass is clean.
Posted by Beaux Man
Satsuma, AL
Member since May 2020
112 posts
Posted on 9/14/21 at 7:26 pm to
I have wanted to get into reloading for years. Not for cost savings but more to find more accurate loads for the guns I own. I have SEVERAL calibers from .243 to .300 Weatherby Mag.

The MAIN reason I’ve wanted to do it recently was more of an availability issue. I want mainly to stockpile a lot of components to guard against not being able to buy the ammo I want. With a decent stash of components and using the brass I have now, I could theoretically be ok in a SHTF scenario.

Another thing not mentioned here is press brands and single stage versus progressive, which I admittedly don’t know enough about to have an educated opinion. I had planned on a RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme full kit if I went single. If I win the lottery I’ll buy a Dillon. I don’t think there’s a bad brand out there though.
Posted by TigerOnThe Hill
Springhill, LA
Member since Sep 2008
6813 posts
Posted on 9/14/21 at 7:30 pm to
quote:

All of the equipment is RCBS. I also have all the dies of what I shoot as he did the reloading years ago. I did find his notebook with details of all the different loads he was using.


RCBC=good stuff. Regarding personal load data, I have a 3 prong binder (the kind you buy at the start of the school year for $0.20 apiece) for every gun I load for. I started this when Nosler Ballistic Tips were just hitting the market so my folders are color coded by the color of the NBT for that gun. For example, all 30 calibers (308 Win, 300/221, 30 Alaskan Bower, etc) loads are in green binders while all 22 calibers (223 Rem, 22 Nosler, 221 Fireball, etc) loads are in red binders.

quote:

Next question, all powder was stored in ammo cans as well as the primers. Is there any concern with them going bad? Everything has the date he bought it written on top. All of the powder was bought between 1995-2001.
Powders and primers should be ok as long as they're not stored in extreme temperature or exposed to wet (primers and powders) or high humidity (powders). I store mine in a closet that has an air/heat vent. Be sure your powder containers are well sealed and don't have any holes. In 35 years of loading, I've only lost 2 cans of powder, one to corrosion in the inside metal container (IMR doesn't use metal cans anymore) and one to a small hole in a plastic Vihtavuori container.

quote:

I also found several reloading manuals, Nosler #2, Lyman 45 edition, Hornady vol 2, speer vol 2, and Game Loads and Practical Ballistics by Bob Hagel. Should I also buy a more recent manual?
Congrats on the Bob Hagel book. I always enjoyed his writings. Those books should be fine for "how to" instructions, but you need more recent data for the recipes. You can find lots of good online data (Barnes, Hodgdon, Nosler and Sierra). I frequently buy new books, but I like books. You can save a few $$s if you want by using online data. BTW, Sierra also has a great phone app.

Enjoy your new hobby and keep us updated.
Posted by TigerOnThe Hill
Springhill, LA
Member since Sep 2008
6813 posts
Posted on 9/14/21 at 7:37 pm to
quote:

Another thing not mentioned here is press brands and single stage versus progressive, which I admittedly don’t know enough about to have an educated opinion.

Good points. I've been using the same Lee Classic Turret press for 35 years w/ satisfaction. I use mine as a single stage, but when I used to load a lot of pistol ammo, I used the turret feature so it was much faster than a single stage, but not as fast nor complicated as a progressive. I think it's hard to go wrong w/ a single stage (or the Lee Turret) from any of the major manufacturers, e.g Lee, Lyman, RCBS, Forster, Hornady or Redding. The main determinant of accuracy component wise is the die, not the press. Having said that, I've assembled plenty of very accurate loads w/ the most inexpensive dies out there, Lee.

The Rock Chucker you mentioned is a fine press
Posted by ItsBernie
Louisiana
Member since May 2019
266 posts
Posted on 9/14/21 at 7:45 pm to
Thanks to all. I have been watching some videos trying to learn as much as I can. I sure wish I would have spent more time with him to learn. He was a machinist by trade so he kept pretty detailed notes.

Thanks again for the information.
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