- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
re: Lawn Weed Advice
Posted on 2/19/18 at 5:35 am to Warrior Poet
Posted on 2/19/18 at 5:35 am to Warrior Poet
quote:
But if I had to choose one, I’d do two blanket applications of Prodiamine (spring/fall)
So would you recommend an application of Prodiamine in the next week or so only, as opposed to also applying in March/April and June?
Posted on 2/19/18 at 6:57 am to meeple
I wouldn’t recommend it, but if you can only pick one that’s what I’d do. You aren’t going to be able to apply Prodiamine that many times. Basically it usually plays out where two applications of Prodiamine reaches the yearly maximum that can be used (I think .83 oz per 1,000 sq ft), so if you want more protection than that you need to use another preemergent.
You could also pick up the Dithiopyr which is relatively cheap and do a late May early June app of that in addition to your two Prodiamine applications. Dithiopyr is the next cheapest option.
But if you’re looking for what I RECOMMEND, then follow the schedule I posted. It’s expensive but will give you weed free turf year in and out. Just get yourself a backpack pump sprayer and go to town.
You could also pick up the Dithiopyr which is relatively cheap and do a late May early June app of that in addition to your two Prodiamine applications. Dithiopyr is the next cheapest option.
But if you’re looking for what I RECOMMEND, then follow the schedule I posted. It’s expensive but will give you weed free turf year in and out. Just get yourself a backpack pump sprayer and go to town.
This post was edited on 2/19/18 at 8:25 am
Posted on 2/19/18 at 9:07 am to Warrior Poet
quote:
Here is my schedule for St Aug grass:
February - Prodiamine 65 WGD (brand name Barricade)
End of March / Early April - Pennant Magnum
June - Dithiopyr 40 WSB (brand name Dimension)
Fall - 2nd app of Prodiamine.
Will this work safely for a centipede/ st aug mix? My front yard is a mix of centipede and st. Aug. Same with my back yard but there are a few spots of bermuda which I could care less about. The spots with bermuda are thin and I planned on putting some centipede or st aug seed. I dont know what the hell the previous owner or builder was thinking.
Posted on 2/19/18 at 9:31 am to Geaux2Hell
I’m interested in centipede grass as well
Posted on 2/19/18 at 11:00 am to Geaux2Hell
quote:
Will this work safely for a centipede/ st aug mix? My front yard is a mix of centipede and st. Aug. Same with my back yard but there are a few spots of bermuda which I could care less about. The spots with bermuda are thin and I planned on putting some centipede or st aug seed. I dont know what the hell the previous owner or builder was thinking.
Yes.
I am in the same boat as you; previous owner of my house let Bermuda and St Aug grow together. One thing I do to drown out the Bermuda is mow the St Aug about 4 inches tall. Not as helpful with St Aug and Centipede, but those at least mix together.
It's more difficult in general for a preemergent to harm your lawn, but if you ever question whether or not a product is compatible with your turf grass, just look closely at the label:
Pennant Magnum Label: https://natseed.com/pdf/Pennant%20Magnum_Label.pdf
Prodiamine Label: https://newsomseed.com/resources/Prodiamine65WDG_LABEL.pdf
And the same goes with Dithiopyr. I get all of these products off Amazon.
As to your concerns about safety to the lawn, one thing I do that is not necessary, but can be helpful, is any time I spray post-emergent/pre-emergent herbicides, I tank mix liquid humic acid or other micronutrient-based products (ie, the stuff besides N-P-K in your fert.). Adding these, especially to a post-emergent herbicide, is something licensed pros have done for years. It severely lessens the stress on your lawn caused by the herbicide (esp. if you have to do a summer application, which is a no-no) and it promotes organic, long-term, sustainable growth. I would bet Bootlegger has quite a bit of knowledge on the products he adds to his normal fertilization program.
This year I am trying something recommended by Allyn Hayne (a/k/a The Lawn Care Nut on YouTube), since he is now a distributor for Green County Fertilizer Co.'s homeowner products. I bought one of the packs that includes their N-Ext RGS, which is a liquid blend of humic acid and micronutrients, including iron for a green-up. I'm using RGS after my herbicide applications this year; looking forward to seeing if I can notice any better results.
Posted on 2/19/18 at 11:07 am to Gorilla Ball
All those listed are safe for centipede
Posted on 2/19/18 at 12:14 pm to Boudreaux35
I always thought clover was beneficial for your yard. It doesn't compete with the grass in summer because it dies off in hotter weather. Same with dandelions, wild garlic and other things that grow in cooler weather.
Am I wrong? Would like to know if I've been ignoring these weeds to the detriment of my lawn.
Am I wrong? Would like to know if I've been ignoring these weeds to the detriment of my lawn.
Posted on 2/19/18 at 2:45 pm to bootlegger
I just need to know how to wipe out dollar weed. It has a firm grasp on half my backyard and has started creeping to the other half.
Posted on 2/19/18 at 3:04 pm to bootlegger
Bootlegger and others,
I raised/leveled part of my back yard this weekend by about 2-4 inches. Previously soil erosion due to me blanket killing weeds for years on a slight slope which allowed the soil to run off in rains. About half the yard is well established Centipede. The other half was Dalisgrass during the summer and is now new dirt (river sand and top soil).
I covered it with lawn fabric and a bit of mulch hoping to kill/prevent the dalisgrass from coming up. I'm thinking of waiting until mid-April before I pull up the fabric and then putting down Centipede seed.
Question; Is 6 weeks long enough, or too long, to strangle out the weeds underneath?
Was hoping to buy pallets of Centipede but I will need 3-4 pallets and at $450 a pop I'm hoping I can be successful seeding.
I raised/leveled part of my back yard this weekend by about 2-4 inches. Previously soil erosion due to me blanket killing weeds for years on a slight slope which allowed the soil to run off in rains. About half the yard is well established Centipede. The other half was Dalisgrass during the summer and is now new dirt (river sand and top soil).
I covered it with lawn fabric and a bit of mulch hoping to kill/prevent the dalisgrass from coming up. I'm thinking of waiting until mid-April before I pull up the fabric and then putting down Centipede seed.
Question; Is 6 weeks long enough, or too long, to strangle out the weeds underneath?
Was hoping to buy pallets of Centipede but I will need 3-4 pallets and at $450 a pop I'm hoping I can be successful seeding.
This post was edited on 2/19/18 at 3:07 pm
Posted on 2/19/18 at 3:10 pm to ELLSSUU
quote:
Was hoping to buy pallets of Centipede but I will need 3-4 pallets and at $450 a pop I'm hoping I can be successful seeding
i seeded tifblair centipede successfully a couple years ago (north LA). took 2-3 months to grow in nicely with regular watering (3-4x per day for first couple weeks). i did end up with some weed issues that i am now taking care of though.
Posted on 2/19/18 at 3:39 pm to Boudreaux35
new house....new batch of weeds
The entire yard is a disaster. Ive been spot spraying for a couple weeks now and its knocking it back but damn it still looks like shite. I have one decent patch of St Aug in the back. Rest, is a weed. This is going to be a fun battle I am not looking forward too.
I got a metric shite ton of Poa Annua at this new place. Anyone want any? I got plenty.
The entire yard is a disaster. Ive been spot spraying for a couple weeks now and its knocking it back but damn it still looks like shite. I have one decent patch of St Aug in the back. Rest, is a weed. This is going to be a fun battle I am not looking forward too.
I got a metric shite ton of Poa Annua at this new place. Anyone want any? I got plenty.
Posted on 2/19/18 at 3:48 pm to ELLSSUU
Can honestly say I'm not sure how long dallisgrass seed can lay dormant, but I bet it's longer than 6 weeks. I know other tough weeds like redroot pigweed seed can sit for years upon years and still be viable. I dont think what you did hurt by any means, probably kept a lot from germinating, but I'd still expect some weeds to pop up.
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News