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re: OT Electrician advice needed: running 110v off of 220v line
Posted on 7/7/21 at 3:36 pm to HubbaBubba
Posted on 7/7/21 at 3:36 pm to HubbaBubba
If what you want to do is add a 110V receptacle to the existing 220V circuit, then this is against code, for two reasons that pop to mind:
1. 110V receptacle and wiring is not rated for the same amperage as the 220V oven breaker (likely either 40A or 50A)
2. If this is an older home then the original oven circuit only has two 'hots' and a ground conductor and no neutral. Using a ground wire as a normal current-carrying conductor is a big no-no.
The right way to do this is to add a new circuit and run new wiring to your 110V receptacle.
Disclosure - not an electrician, just an EE. But I have lot of hands-on experience and none of my house wiring has ever caused a fire. So far.
1. 110V receptacle and wiring is not rated for the same amperage as the 220V oven breaker (likely either 40A or 50A)
2. If this is an older home then the original oven circuit only has two 'hots' and a ground conductor and no neutral. Using a ground wire as a normal current-carrying conductor is a big no-no.
The right way to do this is to add a new circuit and run new wiring to your 110V receptacle.
Disclosure - not an electrician, just an EE. But I have lot of hands-on experience and none of my house wiring has ever caused a fire. So far.
3
Posted on 7/7/21 at 3:38 pm to Unobtanium
quote:You're hired!
none of my house wiring has ever caused a fire. So far.
Posted on 7/7/21 at 3:42 pm to Unobtanium
quote:
just an EE
quote:
110V
quote:
220V
Come on man.
Posted on 7/7/21 at 4:18 pm to Unobtanium
quote:
Disclosure - not an electrician, just an EE. But I have lot of hands-on experience and none of my house wiring has ever caused a fire. So far.
It is always amusing to look at appliances, and see that adherence to the electrical code ends where the power cord enters the appliance, and standard engineering design takes over. For example a clothes dryer or electric range will have 4x #6 power cord externally, but transition to #14 wire internally going to the heating elements. The engineer has determined that for the needed internal wire length #14 is sufficient for the I*2R loss, but outside the unit the electrical code has to be complied with. I recently got a home standby generator, the electrician ran #2 wire the 18” from the meter base to the transfer switch as required by electrical code wire tables. I told the guy that from a engineering point of view # 10 wire would work perfectly fine, he assumed I was nuts.
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