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Started By
Message
Back burner of gas stove wont light
Posted on 3/27/19 at 5:43 pm
Posted on 3/27/19 at 5:43 pm
The other burners work just fine.
I took a lighter to it with the gas on, flame came on no problem, its burning away right now.
Funny thing was that i turned on the spark and got visible spark from it.
Yet when i put it all together, no dice.
I took a lighter to it with the gas on, flame came on no problem, its burning away right now.
Funny thing was that i turned on the spark and got visible spark from it.
Yet when i put it all together, no dice.
3
Posted on 3/27/19 at 6:12 pm to cokebottleag
Clean it
Posted on 3/27/19 at 9:24 pm to Hammertime
After you clean it make sure the igniter is dry. I have had this problem a few times after my wife cleaned the stove.
Posted on 3/27/19 at 11:49 pm to cokebottleag
Use it for a while and get it hot
Posted on 3/28/19 at 1:08 pm to cokebottleag
check your connection from the wiring harness to the ignitorif you can get to it.
Posted on 3/28/19 at 6:58 pm to Hammertime
quote:
Clean it
This more than likely is the issue. Grease, food particles, rust, etc. can accumulate around the burners and igniters and they won't work properly.
Take it apart and clean everything real good. I have a grinder set up with a wire wheel and I use that to clean the actual burner part and you can clean off the igniter with a small wire brush like a brass bristle one to not tear things up and clean off the igniter surfaces.
Posted on 6/19/19 at 9:19 am to gumbo2176
Gas stove question....
Got a new gas stove that I'm installing and it has a higher BTU rating than my old one, so the new gas line is 3/4, whereas the old was 1/2.
The appliance delivery guy told me I had to remove the old connection including the black pipe in the picture below. But I have no clue how to do that because it's a round pipe. And it's been attached for about 20 years and I'm afraid of cracking something on the line upstream from the shutoff (I live in a condo building so not sure where the main gas shutoff is.)
My brother said that he thought they had female to male fittings that I could put over the existing pipe that would expand it from the 1/2 to 3/4 and I wouldn't have to worry about trying to wrench that fricking pipe off and maybe burning th building down.
Thoughts?
Also, on the OP for my old stove it wouldn't light if the metal plate on the burner was askew. I'd also want to make sure the igniter was sparking.
Got a new gas stove that I'm installing and it has a higher BTU rating than my old one, so the new gas line is 3/4, whereas the old was 1/2.
The appliance delivery guy told me I had to remove the old connection including the black pipe in the picture below. But I have no clue how to do that because it's a round pipe. And it's been attached for about 20 years and I'm afraid of cracking something on the line upstream from the shutoff (I live in a condo building so not sure where the main gas shutoff is.)
My brother said that he thought they had female to male fittings that I could put over the existing pipe that would expand it from the 1/2 to 3/4 and I wouldn't have to worry about trying to wrench that fricking pipe off and maybe burning th building down.
Thoughts?
Also, on the OP for my old stove it wouldn't light if the metal plate on the burner was askew. I'd also want to make sure the igniter was sparking.
This post was edited on 6/19/19 at 9:31 am
Posted on 6/19/19 at 9:34 am to Chucktown_Badger
Pipe wrench and channel locks
Posted on 6/19/19 at 9:44 am to Chucktown_Badger
Looks like that valve is a 1/2 inch anyway, so you will either need to transition from 1/2 to 3/4 at the left side of that valve or you could do it at the end of that "nipple" (the short piece of black pipe extending to the left. Just in case you weren't told, you need to use some yellow Teflon tape on the threads for that connection.
Posted on 6/19/19 at 9:45 am to Chucktown_Badger
quote:
Got a new gas stove that I'm installing and it has a higher BTU rating than my old one, so the new gas line is 3/4, whereas the old was 1/2.
You're not going to get any more gas out of that pipe just by putting on a 3/4" adaptor so your new stove can get hooked up. If you have 1/2" pipe in the walls leading up to the connection that is what you're going to get as far as CFM (cubic feet per minute) in gas output.
Same with water. If your line going to a hose is 1/2" pipe you're only going to get so many gallons per minute out of it, but if the line is 3/4" you're going to get more GPM. Larger pipes move more product.
Posted on 6/19/19 at 9:55 am to Boudreaux35
quote:
Looks like that valve is a 1/2 inch anyway, so you will either need to transition from 1/2 to 3/4 at the left side of that valve or you could do it at the end of that "nipple" (the short piece of black pipe extending to the left. Just in case you weren't told, you need to use some yellow Teflon tape on the threads for that connection.
Thanks. So it sounds like that is doable. That would be much easier than screwing with trying to get that piece of pipe off there. It sounds like that piece of pipe alone would not be limiting the flow any further than what the source pipe coming from the wall can deliver.
Looks like another trip to Menard's is in my future. I did get the thread compound yesterday so all set there.
Posted on 6/19/19 at 10:00 am to Chucktown_Badger
quote:
I did get the thread compound yesterday so all set there.
Make sure it is the compound made for gas lines. There is a difference.
Posted on 6/19/19 at 10:12 am to Boudreaux35
quote:
Make sure it is the compound made for gas lines. There is a difference.
Definitely. Made a point to ask about that.
Posted on 6/19/19 at 10:24 am to Boudreaux35
quote:Use pipe dope (or both)
you need to use some yellow Teflon tape on the threads for that connection
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