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Message

New Computer Build
Posted on 6/26/13 at 12:21 am
Posted on 6/26/13 at 12:21 am
Thinking about a Sager NP9390-S and looking for a little input? Will this setup be able to handle most games?
Display 17.3" Full HD LED-Backlit Display featuring 90% NTSC Color Gamut in Super Glossy
Surface (1920 x 1080)
Nvidia GeForce GTX 780M GPU with 4GB GDDR5 Video Memory
CPU Processor 4th Generation Intel® Core™ i7-4900MQ Processor ( 8MB L3 Cache, 2.80GHz)
Operating System Genuine MS Windows® 7 Ultimate
Memory 16GB Dual Channel DDR3 SDRAM at 1600MHz - 2 X 8GB
mSATA SSD Drive Slot 1 Crucial 256GB M4 Series mSATA SSD - as an OS Drive (Primary Drive C) -
Hard Disk Drive 1 240GB Crucial M5 Series SATA3 Solid State Disk Drive
Display 17.3" Full HD LED-Backlit Display featuring 90% NTSC Color Gamut in Super Glossy
Surface (1920 x 1080)
Nvidia GeForce GTX 780M GPU with 4GB GDDR5 Video Memory
CPU Processor 4th Generation Intel® Core™ i7-4900MQ Processor ( 8MB L3 Cache, 2.80GHz)
Operating System Genuine MS Windows® 7 Ultimate
Memory 16GB Dual Channel DDR3 SDRAM at 1600MHz - 2 X 8GB
mSATA SSD Drive Slot 1 Crucial 256GB M4 Series mSATA SSD - as an OS Drive (Primary Drive C) -
Hard Disk Drive 1 240GB Crucial M5 Series SATA3 Solid State Disk Drive
Posted on 6/26/13 at 1:02 am to Damaged Goods
Beastly mobile gfx card and processor for sure
Limited on disk space though. Maybe make the slave hd non ssd if a 500gb aint enough
Limited on disk space though. Maybe make the slave hd non ssd if a 500gb aint enough
Posted on 6/26/13 at 1:25 am to Damaged Goods
Okay, I went to the site and configured it. If you're buying this, I am assuming you have tons of money to throw around and don't really care about shopping around or price. You've configured an extremely fast machine priced at just over $3,000.
But, in case you are, I'll at least give you some tips on the configuration. If you're truly interested in maximizing bang for buck, we can discuss other brands. But let's go with this for now.
Save $370 by going with the i7-4700MQ. No-brainer. This is a gaming laptop, and you will not notice one ioda of a difference in performance with the 2 extra MB of L3 cache and a 400MHz bump.
Next, and this is simply what I'd do because I don't like to pay for operating systems, pirate Windows 7 ultimate. They are charging $125 extra just for you to move from Win 8 to Win 7 ultimate. I'd never pay that. But if you'd rather go the honorable route (lame), you can get it on eBay and elsewhere for under $100. Of course, ask yourself exactly what you want out of Windows 7 Ultimate that Windows 8 won't give you. (I'm not saying you don't have an answer. Just want you to be sure it's worth it if you don't want to pirate it).
Finally, nix the other SSD and stick with default 750GB hard drive and save $160. SSD performance shines as a boot drive. Unless you're doing daily massive (I mean massive) file transfers between drives, you're wasting your money on less storage.
So, with those three tweaks, you knock off $655 and lose no significant gaming performance.
Will it be able to handle most games? Of course, and at very high/ultra settings in a lot of games.
Also, I assume mobility is important (I know some of the gaming folks here work offshore or travel a lot for work and whatnot, so a gaming laptop makes a lot of sense). Otherwise, that $3k could get you an orgasmic 1440p gaming desktop setup that would rival the top builds among the GB posters (Except Coyote's).
But, in case you are, I'll at least give you some tips on the configuration. If you're truly interested in maximizing bang for buck, we can discuss other brands. But let's go with this for now.
Save $370 by going with the i7-4700MQ. No-brainer. This is a gaming laptop, and you will not notice one ioda of a difference in performance with the 2 extra MB of L3 cache and a 400MHz bump.
Next, and this is simply what I'd do because I don't like to pay for operating systems, pirate Windows 7 ultimate. They are charging $125 extra just for you to move from Win 8 to Win 7 ultimate. I'd never pay that. But if you'd rather go the honorable route (lame), you can get it on eBay and elsewhere for under $100. Of course, ask yourself exactly what you want out of Windows 7 Ultimate that Windows 8 won't give you. (I'm not saying you don't have an answer. Just want you to be sure it's worth it if you don't want to pirate it).
Finally, nix the other SSD and stick with default 750GB hard drive and save $160. SSD performance shines as a boot drive. Unless you're doing daily massive (I mean massive) file transfers between drives, you're wasting your money on less storage.
So, with those three tweaks, you knock off $655 and lose no significant gaming performance.
Will it be able to handle most games? Of course, and at very high/ultra settings in a lot of games.
Also, I assume mobility is important (I know some of the gaming folks here work offshore or travel a lot for work and whatnot, so a gaming laptop makes a lot of sense). Otherwise, that $3k could get you an orgasmic 1440p gaming desktop setup that would rival the top builds among the GB posters (Except Coyote's).
This post was edited on 6/26/13 at 1:31 am
Posted on 6/26/13 at 8:50 am to Damaged Goods
IMO, I would go with Samsung SSD.
Posted on 6/26/13 at 8:51 am to Mr Gardoki
Do think its worth the money to get a laptop with the 120hz refresh rate? I've seen the option on a few brands, looks like they are charging out the arse for it.
Posted on 6/26/13 at 8:57 am to Kracka
You can get the 250 gb samsung 840 ssd for about $170. I'm tempted to pick one up for my laptop.
Posted on 6/26/13 at 8:58 am to Damaged Goods
You can get gaming laptops for half that price that will run everything you would ever want to play.
For example
Intel Core i7-3630QM Processor
8 GB DDR3
1024 GB Hard Drive
17.3-Inch Screen
NV GTX670MX w/ 3GB GDDR5
Windows 8
Price: $1,680.00
LINK
A lot of what you have on that other build is overkill. You don't need 16GB or ram for gaming and I doubt you ever use all 4GB of vram on that card at 1080p. Not enough to notice a huge difference anyway unless that monitor will do more than 60Hz. Like ILikeLSUToo said the SSD will only serve you on bootup and large file transfers. If you had a desktop with drive bays to spare that would be one thing otherwise I would maximize my storage with an HDD.
For example
Intel Core i7-3630QM Processor
8 GB DDR3
1024 GB Hard Drive
17.3-Inch Screen
NV GTX670MX w/ 3GB GDDR5
Windows 8
Price: $1,680.00
LINK
A lot of what you have on that other build is overkill. You don't need 16GB or ram for gaming and I doubt you ever use all 4GB of vram on that card at 1080p. Not enough to notice a huge difference anyway unless that monitor will do more than 60Hz. Like ILikeLSUToo said the SSD will only serve you on bootup and large file transfers. If you had a desktop with drive bays to spare that would be one thing otherwise I would maximize my storage with an HDD.
Posted on 6/26/13 at 9:00 am to HamCandy
quote:
Do think its worth the money to get a laptop with the 120hz refresh rate?
Man, I don't know. I know games at 60FPS feel smoother but at some point above that you have to think about diminishing returns when you throw in that the human eye can't see more than 30fps.
Posted on 6/26/13 at 9:08 am to stout
People who play at 120 swear by it but what you don't know won't hurt you also.
This post was edited on 6/26/13 at 9:09 am
Posted on 6/26/13 at 9:15 am to Mr Gardoki
I would have to see it to believe it. I would rather have a higher def like 1440p vs higher FPS that the human eye can't even pick up.
I know why higher FPS are needed in games vs films but I just don't know how much of a difference it would make. I guess the biggest benefit would be that you may not need motion blurring at 120Hz.
I know why higher FPS are needed in games vs films but I just don't know how much of a difference it would make. I guess the biggest benefit would be that you may not need motion blurring at 120Hz.
Posted on 6/26/13 at 10:30 am to stout
I'm trying to find the article but I read a while back about how the human eye can only pick up so much is a myth. I'll edit when I find it.
eta: Having trouble finding it but the basic concept I am getting from searching is that it just isn't that simple. The eye doesn't see in frames per second in the real world so it just doesn't work that way. Also the way you perceive a static picture flashing like your desktop vs movement is different. I can tell for sure when playing games at 30 vs 60 and what people always say about 120 is the feel is just different, whatever that means.
eta: Having trouble finding it but the basic concept I am getting from searching is that it just isn't that simple. The eye doesn't see in frames per second in the real world so it just doesn't work that way. Also the way you perceive a static picture flashing like your desktop vs movement is different. I can tell for sure when playing games at 30 vs 60 and what people always say about 120 is the feel is just different, whatever that means.
This post was edited on 6/26/13 at 10:52 am
Posted on 6/26/13 at 11:09 am to Mr Gardoki
the only thing I can say is there is a drastic difference when I watch football on 60hz-120hz.
and 240 is just silly. so smooth. so im not sure about the fps thing. I'll do some research too gardoki
and 240 is just silly. so smooth. so im not sure about the fps thing. I'll do some research too gardoki
Posted on 6/26/13 at 11:25 am to WestlakeTiger
tv refresh rates are in their own world too because sports aren't even shot in frames that high. You would think it would all be the same but they all do different things and different tv's use different technologies to make the in between frames so to speak
Posted on 6/26/13 at 11:34 am to Mr Gardoki
well crap. you see. I didn't know that either.
Posted on 6/26/13 at 11:35 am to WestlakeTiger
Yea there is a lot of bs out there. I read up on that too one time but I don't remember the details.
Posted on 6/26/13 at 12:32 pm to WestlakeTiger
Plus TVs arent true 120hz/240hz like they say. I don't remember the name, but they use some software to "constructs" a frame inbetween two frames. 120hz monitors are true 120hz though
Eta: I'm pretty sure its called interpolation
Eta: I'm pretty sure its called interpolation
This post was edited on 6/26/13 at 12:33 pm
Posted on 6/26/13 at 12:42 pm to bluebarracuda
It's interpolation but different tv manufacturers do it differently.
Posted on 6/26/13 at 1:51 pm to Mr Gardoki
But it's all the same concept. Unless you buy a $1000+ TV, most manufacturers do it almost the same.
Posted on 6/26/13 at 3:02 pm to bluebarracuda
Yeah they have different names for it "Clear Frame" or "Smooth Frame" etc. I have a 120Hz tv and I turn that shite off. Doesn't look natural to me. Gaming at 120Hz is a whole different experience, though. However, between 1440p and 120Hz, I choose 1440p if I can't have both.
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