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What am I doing wrong? Zero turn solenoid grounding
Posted on 2/10/26 at 3:12 pm
Posted on 2/10/26 at 3:12 pm
My Hustler Raptor zero turn won't start. I thought it was the solenoid because it was clicking but not cranking, same thing happened a couple years ago and that was the issue. No problems replacing it back then.
I bought a new one and installed it but now it still won't crank and won't even click anymore.
Checked the battery and it was dead as a doornail. I replaced the battery today and it still won't click or crank. Checked the battery and it's fully charged.
I took a screwdriver and touched both large posts on the solenoid and the engine cranked. So it's getting juice.
I'm assuming it's not grounded properly but I've tried a couple things now and still can't get it working. I'm not even positive which wire is the ground wire so this is difficult. I'm sure the problem is an easy fix, but I'm having trouble figuring it out. What do y'all think it is?
I bought a new one and installed it but now it still won't crank and won't even click anymore.
Checked the battery and it was dead as a doornail. I replaced the battery today and it still won't click or crank. Checked the battery and it's fully charged.
I took a screwdriver and touched both large posts on the solenoid and the engine cranked. So it's getting juice.
I'm assuming it's not grounded properly but I've tried a couple things now and still can't get it working. I'm not even positive which wire is the ground wire so this is difficult. I'm sure the problem is an easy fix, but I'm having trouble figuring it out. What do y'all think it is?
5
Posted on 2/10/26 at 3:48 pm to TDsngumbo
lot of dust on the fuse holder on the wire going to the solenoid indicates you haven't checked the fuse. check that. also follow the wires & check where the ground wire is bolted to the frame/body. a rusty ground could be the problem.
take the spark plug out & try to crank it to rule out the engine being hydo locked due to carburetor leaking gas into the cylinder.
take the spark plug out & try to crank it to rule out the engine being hydo locked due to carburetor leaking gas into the cylinder.
Posted on 2/10/26 at 3:54 pm to TDsngumbo
I just went through a similar song and dance. Ill try to list what I would check in chronological order based on the way you are describing the issue if it were my machine.
A) Sounds like solenoid issue if it cranks when you bypassed with the screwdriver. You may have installed the new solenoid incorrectly or the new part is bad. Double check a schematic for your machine to ensure you installed it correctly. To test the solenoid, you can youtube it but you will need a power supply (jumper cables, jumper pack, or positive/negative wires hooked to a battery and a multimeter)
B) The ground: should be bolted to the frame. Follow the negative (black) cable from the battery. I’ve seen them under the seat bolted to a frame rail or bolted to the engine mounting plate close to the battery
a. A way to test grounding issues: get a set of jumper cables, clamp one side to the negative terminal of the battery and the other side to a bare metal engine bolt, try starting.
C) Check the fuse in the encloser on the smaller red wire in image no. 1, may be blown
D) Could be the ignition switch, PTO safety switch, control lever switches(s) or seat safety switch.
a. Some zero turns are funny with the control lever switches. Make sure the levers are all the way out. Try ramming them outward.
b. Wiggle the cr__ out of the PTO engage button and key; bounce up and down on the seat while turning the key.
c. You can isolate each of these (which is what I ended up having to do last week). This would be a last resort once ground and solenoid is ruled out.
E) New battery may be bad. Even if it’s showing 12v it may not be putting out the cranking amps needed. I usually have to bring it in to a auto parts store (where I purchased it) to test for this.
A) Sounds like solenoid issue if it cranks when you bypassed with the screwdriver. You may have installed the new solenoid incorrectly or the new part is bad. Double check a schematic for your machine to ensure you installed it correctly. To test the solenoid, you can youtube it but you will need a power supply (jumper cables, jumper pack, or positive/negative wires hooked to a battery and a multimeter)
B) The ground: should be bolted to the frame. Follow the negative (black) cable from the battery. I’ve seen them under the seat bolted to a frame rail or bolted to the engine mounting plate close to the battery
a. A way to test grounding issues: get a set of jumper cables, clamp one side to the negative terminal of the battery and the other side to a bare metal engine bolt, try starting.
C) Check the fuse in the encloser on the smaller red wire in image no. 1, may be blown
D) Could be the ignition switch, PTO safety switch, control lever switches(s) or seat safety switch.
a. Some zero turns are funny with the control lever switches. Make sure the levers are all the way out. Try ramming them outward.
b. Wiggle the cr__ out of the PTO engage button and key; bounce up and down on the seat while turning the key.
c. You can isolate each of these (which is what I ended up having to do last week). This would be a last resort once ground and solenoid is ruled out.
E) New battery may be bad. Even if it’s showing 12v it may not be putting out the cranking amps needed. I usually have to bring it in to a auto parts store (where I purchased it) to test for this.
Posted on 2/10/26 at 4:49 pm to TDsngumbo
Unhook the starter lead from the solenoid so that you can test it to your hearts content without cranking the engine.
Get a multimeter and check resistance across the big terminals (the contact side). Should be normally open (infinite resistance) when not "cranking" and closed (0 ohm) when "cranking." Alternatively, the lug you pulled the cable from should read 0 volts when not cranking and 12v when "cranking." If it does, then the problem is somewhere between the solenoid and the starter.
If that isn't happening, time to check the coil side (the small wires). Check between each terminal and the frame or engine block or battery negative or something, one side should read open, that's the key side. The other side should read closed, that's the ground side. The one that is open, should have 12 volts when "cranking." If it does, and the contact isn't closing, it's a bad solenoid.
Get a multimeter and check resistance across the big terminals (the contact side). Should be normally open (infinite resistance) when not "cranking" and closed (0 ohm) when "cranking." Alternatively, the lug you pulled the cable from should read 0 volts when not cranking and 12v when "cranking." If it does, then the problem is somewhere between the solenoid and the starter.
If that isn't happening, time to check the coil side (the small wires). Check between each terminal and the frame or engine block or battery negative or something, one side should read open, that's the key side. The other side should read closed, that's the ground side. The one that is open, should have 12 volts when "cranking." If it does, and the contact isn't closing, it's a bad solenoid.
Posted on 2/10/26 at 6:59 pm to TDsngumbo
Check all safety switches. Check them with an OHMs meter. About 99% sure you have a bad one.
Posted on 2/10/26 at 11:08 pm to TDsngumbo
There’s 2 relays under the control panel where the key switch is. One is for starting and one is for the PTO. Swap them and see if it starts. Start relay may be bad and power dropping before it gets to solenoid.
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