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Any Sump Pump Experts?
Posted on 7/17/25 at 9:40 am
Posted on 7/17/25 at 9:40 am
My sump check valve has gone bad and needs replaced. My pressure switch is also a bit too light for my taste and causes the pump to short cycle where the pump only stays off for about 20sec at a time during high usage.
Anyway, I'm contemplating doing the check valve, pressure switch/float switch and maybe the pump myself. Are there any brands/types of devices that are better than others or ones to avoid? Any advice for a first time sump project person?
Anyway, I'm contemplating doing the check valve, pressure switch/float switch and maybe the pump myself. Are there any brands/types of devices that are better than others or ones to avoid? Any advice for a first time sump project person?
2
Posted on 7/17/25 at 9:57 am to notsince98
The pump short-cycling sounds more like a waterlogged tank issue than pressure switch. I'm no expert, though.
Posted on 7/17/25 at 10:06 am to bootlegger
I think there are 2 primary causes for the short cycling:
1) the check valve failing means the 8'+ of pipe above the pit immediately drains back into the pit as soon as the pump turns off. this causes the refilling to happen quicker
2) The pressure switch is kicking the pump on when the water height in the pit is about 25%. It would have longer off times if the switch would wait for the pit to be 2/3 or 3/4 full before kicking the sump pump on but maybe there are very good reasons not to do this?
1) the check valve failing means the 8'+ of pipe above the pit immediately drains back into the pit as soon as the pump turns off. this causes the refilling to happen quicker
2) The pressure switch is kicking the pump on when the water height in the pit is about 25%. It would have longer off times if the switch would wait for the pit to be 2/3 or 3/4 full before kicking the sump pump on but maybe there are very good reasons not to do this?
Posted on 7/17/25 at 11:05 am to notsince98
quote:
Are there any brands/types of devices that are better than others or ones to avoid?
Yes, just get a Zoeller and be done with it, they are solid and cost a bit but this is not something worth pinching pennies on and having to revisit every few years. Make sure you have a bleed hole in the discharge tube below the check valve (Zoeller pumps have one made into the pump housing, maybe other brands do but I'm not sure about them) to prevent air lock. Zoeller also has check valve kits so you can install one with their pump easily.
Posted on 7/17/25 at 11:46 am to Clames
is there any longevity difference between cast iron, stainless steel, plastic?
Posted on 7/17/25 at 12:29 pm to notsince98
Good pumps generally have cast iron all over, some ok pumps have a cast iron pump section with a stainless steel motor housing. Generally the cheaper pumps are all polymer. The main issue with cheap pumps, aside their inability to handle heat if run for long duty cycles, is the pump shaft/seal interface. If that fails then the pump has water leak into the motor or bearings and kills it pretty quickly.
Posted on 7/17/25 at 4:03 pm to notsince98
quote:
is there any longevity difference between cast iron, stainless steel, plastic?
What are you using the pump for?
Posted on 7/17/25 at 5:20 pm to Themicah86
quote:
What are you using the pump for?
A sump.
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