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Started By
Message
Painting replacement sheetrock
Posted on 2/23/25 at 10:21 am
Posted on 2/23/25 at 10:21 am
Last week, I posted that I accidentally hit a pex plumbing line with a screw when installing a cabinet. That's all been fixed.
Here is the "patch" job I did. Dried out for 2.5 days with fans, sprayed mold control, and then reinsulated.
1 x 2 backer boards were applied, fiber tape, drywall screws and then mud (joint compound).
1st coat of mud applied, and then sanded (below):
Thiis is the 2nd coat of mud (waiting for it to dry - below). I will sand again.
I recently purchased a heavy texture roller designed for semi-smooth and smooth walls. My current wall finish is satin (it was eggshell before I repainted the room).
I’m wondering if I need to apply a texture to the wall before putting on at least two coats of paint. I watched a video where a guy mentioned that using a heavy texture roller eliminates the need for pre-texturing. Since I’m still new to this (especially after replacing the sheetrock), I’d appreciate hearing from those with more experience on whether or not I need to texture the wall first.
Here is the "patch" job I did. Dried out for 2.5 days with fans, sprayed mold control, and then reinsulated.
1 x 2 backer boards were applied, fiber tape, drywall screws and then mud (joint compound).
1st coat of mud applied, and then sanded (below):
Thiis is the 2nd coat of mud (waiting for it to dry - below). I will sand again.
I recently purchased a heavy texture roller designed for semi-smooth and smooth walls. My current wall finish is satin (it was eggshell before I repainted the room).
I’m wondering if I need to apply a texture to the wall before putting on at least two coats of paint. I watched a video where a guy mentioned that using a heavy texture roller eliminates the need for pre-texturing. Since I’m still new to this (especially after replacing the sheetrock), I’d appreciate hearing from those with more experience on whether or not I need to texture the wall first.
2
Posted on 2/23/25 at 10:49 am to Will Cover
Yes you need to texture and have options on how to do it. The texture is called orange peel. You can get some in a can or try with a roller. The can:
LINK
The other option is to use a short nap roller and add water to the mud to make it very light when applying.
Either way, use a piece of cardboard or plywood and experiment before applying to the wall. If you don't get the result you are trying for, use the knife and remove it while wet and try again. Hit and miss, but you'll get it.
LINK
The other option is to use a short nap roller and add water to the mud to make it very light when applying.
Either way, use a piece of cardboard or plywood and experiment before applying to the wall. If you don't get the result you are trying for, use the knife and remove it while wet and try again. Hit and miss, but you'll get it.
This post was edited on 2/23/25 at 10:52 am
Posted on 2/23/25 at 10:52 am to Will Cover
I would get one of these texture sprays instead.
It's more than enough to cover your area and should look closer to what you have.
It's more than enough to cover your area and should look closer to what you have.
Posted on 2/23/25 at 10:53 am to ItzMe1972
quote:
Yes you need to texture and have options on how to do it.
All good advice. Only thing I'll add is to make the new texture a bit bolder than what is already on the wall since it will shrink a bit as it dries.
Just make sure to sand the patch and mating area for a smooth finish to not be noticeable when done.
Posted on 2/23/25 at 10:56 am to BilbeauTBaggins
Thank you all for your replies. I do have a can of orange peel. I'll tape off and cover the area that I will apply it to. I'm not the best at it - was hoping to avoid using the orange peel, but I am glad I asked.
This post was edited on 2/23/25 at 10:58 am
Posted on 2/23/25 at 11:32 am to Will Cover
It's fairly simple. I think you just spray from 12" away and adjust the nozzle based on the type of coverage you want. It did look close to orange peel based on what i could see. It dries quick so you can adjust if you need. That $20 spray doe a good job.
Posted on 2/23/25 at 1:16 pm to Will Cover
Shake the can well and put it warm water in the sink for it to function the best.
Posted on 2/24/25 at 6:04 pm to Mmackl1
Other than the bottom left and bottom right edges of the sheetrock repair, I'm fairly pleased with my attempt to texture.
I could go back and sand those edges after the texture dries -- and may --- or I might just leave it, and begin painting tomorrow.
to everyone for the tips.
I could go back and sand those edges after the texture dries -- and may --- or I might just leave it, and begin painting tomorrow.
to everyone for the tips.Posted on 2/24/25 at 7:37 pm to Will Cover
Good effort. Glad you attempted. However, you can do better. If you don’t fix it you will forever notice the imperfections. Now is the time.
Simply scrape/sand off the texture. Put some more mud on the gouges and divots. After it dries sand everything completely smooth. Make sure there are no knife marks. Pay special attention to abrupt changes from old to new. Make sure that it’s a smooth transition. Then texture just like you did before.
Perfection !
Simply scrape/sand off the texture. Put some more mud on the gouges and divots. After it dries sand everything completely smooth. Make sure there are no knife marks. Pay special attention to abrupt changes from old to new. Make sure that it’s a smooth transition. Then texture just like you did before.
Perfection !
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