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Message
Galvanic Corrosion
Posted on 2/22/25 at 8:02 am
Posted on 2/22/25 at 8:02 am
Recently replaced axles on an aluminum bay boat trailer. I replaced all the hardware, leaf springs, etc and used stainless steel bolts/nuts/washers. Should I be concerned about galvanic corrosion where the stainless steel hardware makes contact with the aluminum trailer? I did not add any inhibitor treatment to the surface or contacted areas. This boat will be used in saltwater.
This post was edited on 2/22/25 at 8:43 am
Posted on 2/22/25 at 8:36 am to SmokinBurger
I wouldn't worry about it. All the erector set trailers use stainless hardware everywhere and that's all in direct contact. It'll explode from being dragged down our shite roads before that's a problem.
Posted on 2/22/25 at 10:54 am to SmokinBurger
Yep, should be fine. Make sure to rinse the trailer afterwards and spraying down with 50/50 wd40 motor oil mix occasionally doesn’t hurt either.
Posted on 2/22/25 at 11:36 am to Theduckhunter
Thanks for the recommendations!
Posted on 2/22/25 at 12:34 pm to SmokinBurger
quote:
stainless steel bolts/nuts/washers.
A little help here, years ago during the gulf war, a friend of mine, his Dad was in Saudi Arabia, my friend with talk to his Dad around early morning. We had an over seas account number at work. So he’s talking with his Dad, the Dad had to end the call quickly. The next morning, after talking with his Dad, a Scud Missile had exploded on their compound. Months later, the Dad had brought back small fragments of the exploded missile. It was small fragments of twisted Stainless Steel, with sharp edges. You could see how when flying through the air, it would cut you to pieces.
Oh, as for more on Stainless Steel, the rocket Elon uses, Stainless Steel is used.
Posted on 2/22/25 at 7:29 pm to LSUDad
paint gear case oil on the springs once a year. It does not evaporate
Posted on 2/24/25 at 7:05 am to SmokinBurger
Other than the stainless hardware seizing up because its stainless it won't be a problem. Stainless hardware is going to pretty much fuse together no mater what is done to it and what its in contact with. Its just a matter of time.
High quality Galvanized hardware is also OK with an aluminum trailer. Galvanizing material is primarily zinc which is pretty close to aluminum chemically and electrically. High quality galvanized hardware may be better than stainless as stainless steel, especially low quality stainless steel, when under stress like movement and chafing, and especially when tooled, can bring most of the iron close to the surface making it, for all intents and purposes, high priced "carbon" steel (not really carbon but it will react very similarly). Galvanized hardware will only be a problem where any of the zinc is missing and its in contact with aluminum. When the iron in stainless steel begins to migrate it will be in contact with the aluminum across its entire area. Cadmium is probably the best solution - cadmium hardware is used in current carrying conductors (the impetus to galvanic reaction is current) to bolt copper to copper, aluminum to aluminum and copper to aluminum in the most corrosive environments on the planet and they never cause a corrosion issue....and they can be removed years and years down the road with ordinary hand tools, something that is damn near impossible with stainless hardware sometimes in hours after torquing....
High quality Galvanized hardware is also OK with an aluminum trailer. Galvanizing material is primarily zinc which is pretty close to aluminum chemically and electrically. High quality galvanized hardware may be better than stainless as stainless steel, especially low quality stainless steel, when under stress like movement and chafing, and especially when tooled, can bring most of the iron close to the surface making it, for all intents and purposes, high priced "carbon" steel (not really carbon but it will react very similarly). Galvanized hardware will only be a problem where any of the zinc is missing and its in contact with aluminum. When the iron in stainless steel begins to migrate it will be in contact with the aluminum across its entire area. Cadmium is probably the best solution - cadmium hardware is used in current carrying conductors (the impetus to galvanic reaction is current) to bolt copper to copper, aluminum to aluminum and copper to aluminum in the most corrosive environments on the planet and they never cause a corrosion issue....and they can be removed years and years down the road with ordinary hand tools, something that is damn near impossible with stainless hardware sometimes in hours after torquing....
Posted on 2/24/25 at 8:31 am to AwgustaDawg
first time you twist the head off a stainless steel bolt you’ll wish you used galvanized or at least put anti seize on the threads
Posted on 2/24/25 at 10:44 am to cgrand
quote:
first time you twist the head off a stainless steel bolt you’ll wish you used galvanized or at least put anti seize on the threads
Nothing in the world funner than trying to sawzall a 3/8 - 16 stainless steel bolt because the damned thing is rounded off LOL.
Posted on 2/24/25 at 12:39 pm to cgrand
quote:
first time you twist the head off a stainless steel bolt
Man, I swear every time I’m working on something it goes super smooth until the LAST screw/bolt. Then it snaps, and I have to spend forever in the most awkward position to pull it out
But to answer OP - Tef Gel works pretty well for stainless hardware into aluminum.
If stainless hardware into powder coated aluminum I normally use nylon insulating washers. Otherwise the powder coat will start bubbling fairly quickly
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