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Mr Fusion
| Favorite team: | LSU  |
| Location: | The American Dream City |
| Biography: | |
| Interests: | |
| Occupation: | |
| Number of Posts: | 7462 |
| Registered on: | 12/5/2010 |
| Online Status: | Not Online |
Recent Posts
Message
re: Harbor Freight good and bad
Posted by Mr Fusion on 10/2/24 at 10:14 am
0
re: Building in Flood Zone A
Posted by Mr Fusion on 4/10/24 at 6:05 pm
Since the adoption of Risk Rating 2.0, there are a lot more factors taken into consideration than just elevation. The link below gives a good general summary of how the new system works.
LINK
LINK
re: Red Bean Gumbo
Posted by Mr Fusion on 1/20/24 at 6:01 pm
John Folse has a recipe in his Encyclopedia of Cajun and Creole Cuisine. Someone shared it in this thread a couple years back:
LINK
LINK
re: favorite cold weather food
Posted by Mr Fusion on 12/1/23 at 9:23 pm
Shepherd's pie
re: Dry 2023
Posted by Mr Fusion on 2/2/23 at 4:56 pm
I don't plan to go fully dry, but the month off really made me realize how much even one or 2 drinks on a weeknight can affect how I feel in the morning. I am now much more aware of drinking habits, and plan on cutting back a ton moving forward.
re: I'm Fat & Need Help
Posted by Mr Fusion on 12/28/22 at 9:30 pm
We all have our struggles. You've taken Step 1, which is one of the hardest steps to make. You have admitted you aren't satisfied with yourself, you need help, and you want to change. That's really freaking awesome. Make a commitment to yourself to do better each week, and don't beat yourself up when you have a bad one.
Lots of great advice and support in this thread. I'd start by cutting down on your biggest vice. For example,
if you drink sodas, start with only drinking a few per week. If you snack a lot, only eat a single serving (lunch size) package at a time. Make a noticeable, but measurable change in your habits. Then whittle those vices down to special occasions. Go for a 20 minute walk 3 times per week. Gradually change your habits and lifestyle so you don't burn out or regress after a bit of time. And don't give up or revert when you "fail" yourself every so often. Make yourself proud of who you are and who you want to be.
Lots of great advice and support in this thread. I'd start by cutting down on your biggest vice. For example,
if you drink sodas, start with only drinking a few per week. If you snack a lot, only eat a single serving (lunch size) package at a time. Make a noticeable, but measurable change in your habits. Then whittle those vices down to special occasions. Go for a 20 minute walk 3 times per week. Gradually change your habits and lifestyle so you don't burn out or regress after a bit of time. And don't give up or revert when you "fail" yourself every so often. Make yourself proud of who you are and who you want to be.
re: Storm Sewer Tie-Ins
Posted by Mr Fusion on 12/28/22 at 2:48 pm
If you intend to connect to the public storm drain, storm sewer doesn't generally have backflow prevention on gravity systems. You wouldn't have enough pressure to activate passive backflow in the same way you do a potable water system.
I see that you are in BR, so you would want to contact their Transportation and Drainage department to see if they would even allow you to connect to the public storm system. I work for a City in Texas that allows this, but you have to meet some requirements. It's probably not worth the expense and hassle to make an underground connection. Below is an explanation of why, based on what we require.
First - you likely need to provide a set of engineered plans that show the drainage area, calculated discharges, and connection location (plan and profile). The plans would show where and how you expect to tie into the public system. There may be a standard detail if you are punching into a pipe or inlet. You also need to consider if the tie-in location is accessible, and what the subsidiary repairs may require (i.e. is the public facility under a street and would require a road repair?, are there other utilities you may have to cross?) Another consideration is the hydraulic grade. If your home is in a bowl, and the public system is designed to operate at full capacity for a design storm (likely 25-year event), then you could experience surcharge of the public system out of your private system if there isn't sufficient elevation.
Second - Assuming you get through all the design issues, you would need to hire an approved contractor to do the work. Most cities won't let any unqualified, uninsured contractor to touch their facilities without proper bonds and insurance. You may have to have a 3-party contract between you (as the owner), the contractor, and the City to ensure that all responsibilities and obligations are clearly defined.
Third - there is likely an inspection fee from the City to ensure that the improvements are installed in accordance with the plans and specifications. This would probably be a few hundred dollars.
Based on all these requirements, we typically only see commercial developments and new subdivisions tying anything into a public storm system. It is a lot of headache, paperwork, and expense. Your street should be designed to convey any runoff from your property into the closed system. If your house is below the grade of the street, a sump pump is going to be your best route.
I see that you are in BR, so you would want to contact their Transportation and Drainage department to see if they would even allow you to connect to the public storm system. I work for a City in Texas that allows this, but you have to meet some requirements. It's probably not worth the expense and hassle to make an underground connection. Below is an explanation of why, based on what we require.
First - you likely need to provide a set of engineered plans that show the drainage area, calculated discharges, and connection location (plan and profile). The plans would show where and how you expect to tie into the public system. There may be a standard detail if you are punching into a pipe or inlet. You also need to consider if the tie-in location is accessible, and what the subsidiary repairs may require (i.e. is the public facility under a street and would require a road repair?, are there other utilities you may have to cross?) Another consideration is the hydraulic grade. If your home is in a bowl, and the public system is designed to operate at full capacity for a design storm (likely 25-year event), then you could experience surcharge of the public system out of your private system if there isn't sufficient elevation.
Second - Assuming you get through all the design issues, you would need to hire an approved contractor to do the work. Most cities won't let any unqualified, uninsured contractor to touch their facilities without proper bonds and insurance. You may have to have a 3-party contract between you (as the owner), the contractor, and the City to ensure that all responsibilities and obligations are clearly defined.
Third - there is likely an inspection fee from the City to ensure that the improvements are installed in accordance with the plans and specifications. This would probably be a few hundred dollars.
Based on all these requirements, we typically only see commercial developments and new subdivisions tying anything into a public storm system. It is a lot of headache, paperwork, and expense. Your street should be designed to convey any runoff from your property into the closed system. If your house is below the grade of the street, a sump pump is going to be your best route.
re: St Charles parish building permit for an accessory building.
Posted by Mr Fusion on 7/13/22 at 10:59 am
quote:
Your best bet is to call someone in code enforcement or go over to the office and talk with them.
Talk to the Planning and Zoning department. They approve permits. If you need a variance, and the department denies it, you would appeal to the Zoning Board of Adjustment.
re: Deciding on EGO blower
Posted by Mr Fusion on 6/22/22 at 8:47 pm
At the same price, I'd go with the one with more CFM and speed. But it probably will drain the battery faster. Depending on the size of your property, and whether you have another Ego tool with a battery, you may want to plan for buying a second battery. Especially if you plan on using it to blow leaves in the wintertime.
re: Replacing 20x20 wooden deck with concrete slab?
Posted by Mr Fusion on 6/1/22 at 7:56 pm
Summer 2020, in DFW, I had ~400 sf concrete patio poured for $2,500. 4" thick, #3 rebar on 18" centers, 8" footing around the outside edge. I removed an old wooden deck myself, and did the rough grading by hand.
Hopefully that gives you a good ballpark. I imagine they'd have charged an additional $500-$1000 for the deck removal, because that was probably the some of the hardest physical labor I've ever done on my own.
You also need to consider access to the patio area. Is it in an area where they could back up a concrete truck? If not, is there a gate wide enough to get a transport buggy (assume 5' wide clear path)? Otherwise, your cost will go up and quality will go down if they have to transport it by wheelbarrow loads.
Hopefully that gives you a good ballpark. I imagine they'd have charged an additional $500-$1000 for the deck removal, because that was probably the some of the hardest physical labor I've ever done on my own.
You also need to consider access to the patio area. Is it in an area where they could back up a concrete truck? If not, is there a gate wide enough to get a transport buggy (assume 5' wide clear path)? Otherwise, your cost will go up and quality will go down if they have to transport it by wheelbarrow loads.
re: Big Dog mowers
Posted by Mr Fusion on 4/26/22 at 7:32 pm
If you can't mow with the Big Dogs, stay on the porch!
re: Looking to buy a cordless weed eater. Any recommendations?
Posted by Mr Fusion on 4/21/22 at 11:52 am
The Ego has great power, and it's so easy to restring. Literally, you poke the string through a hole, then press a button.
re: String Trimmer/Edger recommendation. - Brand? Battery/Gas? Stand Alone or Combination?
Posted by Mr Fusion on 2/28/22 at 10:19 am
quote:
ego and echo.
I replaced a 20+ year old Echo weed eater with an Ego. I love the power, ease of use, and reliability of the Ego. But, the head is at a flatter angle and spins the opposite direction of the Echo, and it took me almost a full season to get used to that.
The Echo is easier to handle if you intend to turn it upside down and use it as an edger. The Ego is really good for trimming wider areas and up against vertical surfaces.
I'm probably going to replace my walk-behind blade edger with an Ego stick edger this year. My old edger turns 30 this year. It's a work horse once it gets going, but is just getting unbearable to start.
In terms of overall ease of use for a house in a subdivision, I highly recommend Ego.
re: GFI outlet reset question
Posted by Mr Fusion on 11/6/21 at 7:25 am
That same mistake cost me $80 about a month ago. I called an electrician because replacing a fixture like-for-like is the extent of electrical work I feel comfortable doing. It took him just a few minutes to figure out what was going on. I felt like a fool at the time, but totally worth it for the safety aspect.
re: New Construction Painting Bricks
Posted by Mr Fusion on 9/27/21 at 3:13 pm
Don't do it!
re: Favorite Odd Food Combo....
Posted by Mr Fusion on 9/19/21 at 1:14 pm
quote:odd pairing, because I wouldn't think of it. But now I want it.
boudin and kimchee
re: What’s a good push/self-propelled lawnmower?
Posted by Mr Fusion on 9/6/21 at 7:10 pm
Do you have a budget?
re: Leaky Bath Faucet - Attempt to Repair or Call a Plumber?
Posted by Mr Fusion on 8/23/21 at 1:57 pm
If you can't get the bonnet nut off by twisting with average force, don't try to use your muscle to untighten it. Either call a plumber, or get a large set of slip joints to bend it or crack it free, then replace the trim kit.
Trust me. Otherwise you can break the copper supply lines and end up with a shower remodel on your hands. Or so someone told me...
Trust me. Otherwise you can break the copper supply lines and end up with a shower remodel on your hands. Or so someone told me...
re: 80s Intercom System Removal?
Posted by Mr Fusion on 8/5/21 at 7:28 pm
Does it still work?
re: Admit Your Dumbest Homeowner Repair Mistakes
Posted by Mr Fusion on 8/5/21 at 7:05 pm
quote:
Well with that patch job, make sure you don’t use 5/8” to patch it if it’s only 1/2”. That’s my dumbest mistake. And the dumbest part was how long it took me to realize that I was never going to get it floated and sanded flat.
For some reason, there is one wall in my house that has 5/8 drywall. I had to make cut a hole in it for something, and that number stuck with me because it was surprising how thick my wall was. A few months later, I ordered new doors for my house through a friend who works at a door supplier. He asked me what thickness drywall I had, so they could get the right size jambs. I told him 5/8, without measuring the existing jambs. Installation day comes, and all of them are too wide. So we spent the first half of the day cutting off 1/4" off of each of the 16 doors we were replacing. They look fine now that they are sanded, painted, and caulked. But if I get close, I can see some of the waves from trying to use a circular saw to get straight cuts.
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