clschwartz

I'm sure it hoses the beneficial insects but it absolutely does work for mosquitoes.

There's plenty of cane fields around here for the bugs to live, my little plot of mosquito free heavan isn't making a dent.

I've done pretty much every variation.

Smaller generators with extention cords and window units. Hard pass! It was better than leaving town but constant refueling and tripping over extension cords & screwing around with window units is not fun.

I did a manual generator input with breaker panel interlock and it was definitely nice to skip the cords. Saves a bunch of time and hassle. This is the minimum I would look at. Still dealing with refueling and/or window units if you are using a smaller generator is for young/broke bucks though.

I then moved to a larger Predator 13000 tri-fuel which was large enough to run a 5 ton AC on a soft start and ran it off of NG. Couldn't use the electric oven/stove at the same time but water heaters, dryer and furnace were gas so not a big deal. You could probably live without Stove/Oven but if you have electric WH/Furnace, then you are going to want something larger than 13000 (I ithink it's like 10,500 on NG.) Not having to deal with gas cans and window ac's was very nice. After having this setup, it's my personal minimum.

I just bought a house with a Cummins Water Cooled 40KW. House is ALL electric so while 40KW is overkill, you'd need the larger air cooled units to keep up with demand. It's the first time I've had the auto-standby and it sure was nice when the power went out at Midnight. If power goes out while you are away from home, it's nice to know the food won't spoil either so while it's a luxury, there are some upsides for sure.

Liquid cooled vs air cooled... The liquid cooled runs at 1800 RPM and all you reallly hear is the radiator fan. Sounds like a big AC unit. WAY quiter than the air cooled ones. If you had to go a week without power, I'm sure it's better there as well but that isn't common. I know I wouldn't pony up for this unit out of my own pocket but I'm very happy with it.

I'd do a Predator 3500. If you put soft starts on the AC's it should run both of them. Quiet and fuel efficient with a large enough tank to where you won't be filling it up constantly.

My experience with the 2000's is that they are louder and the tank is small so they are a pain in the arse other than portability.

The 5000 would give some additional capacity but that's getting a little bit big to handle by yourself. If you have someone that can help you load it in and out of the truck or if you have a rack you can leave it on at the back of the RV, that would be a good option too.

Check facebook for a low hours used one. I just sold a 3500 with 50 hours for $500. You can find them a little cheaper with a couple of hundred hours and they are reliable...

Unless you have a need for something different, save all kinds of headache and plan on towing a Wrangler. There's no steering wheel lock and they take 60 seconds to put the transfer case in neutral. You almost can't screw it up.

4 door Jeep is over 5K lbs so if you are a stickler for the rules, you would probably need to drop to a 2 door if you were trying to town it behind a class B. I suspect any Class C would be fine pulling a 4 door.

As someone else pointed out, you're probably going to be overweight regardless on any Class B/C if you load it up. Heck half the Class A's without tag axles are running overweight too...

My Class A stops just fine without supplemental braking on but it's a jerk move to run without a safety mechanism if the towed vehicle separated so to me this isn't optional. Legally it's required pretty much everywhere anyway.

To add a little more... I suspect you've already done this research but you'll need a Lithium specific charger and if you want to connect it to your alternator to re-charge on the water, you'll want an Li-BIM or a DC to DC charger to protect the alternator.

Yeah, I have it on my motorhome so I can only speak to the RV package. I think last time I was in BR I was seeing between 30-50Mb down and 10-20 up. It was plenty enough for me to take all my video calls for work while simultaneously streaming HD content to the TVs.

Latency was around 30ms if I recall.

The RV plans get throttled to save bandwidth for permanent addresses.

Piling on here. My first and last time for that stadium. They seemed completely unprepared to host an event that day.

For all the effort to get to a destination, the game experience needs to be better.

141 row T - 6 of us…

Arriving Sunday for a turn and burn…

We're a group of 6 flying in from Houston Sunday morning. Rather than screwing with 2 Ubers every time we want to make a move somewhere, I rented a Pathfinder (allegedly seats 7) for $65.

Any advice on Parking for the game?

None of us have been to this stadium before so was wondering if it's best to park downtown and just take the shuttle or if that's a isht show and we're better to just pony up and pay more to park closer to the stadium. There are resale parking passes available but they are pricey. I assume you can just find some random lot for $50-$100 but maybe I'm crazy. The wimenz are high maintenance so a mile walk isn't going to cut it...

As for Pre-Game, is the Fan Fest likely to be anything worth attending or should we just find a bar/restaurant to kill some time?

Well, I’ll be damned, A&M worked for me now.

So now just looking for Florida…