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The Dalton Highway

Posted on 6/8/19 at 6:41 am
Posted by Globetrotter747
Member since Sep 2017
5345 posts
Posted on 6/8/19 at 6:41 am
Has anyone here driven it?
Posted by RogerTheShrubber
Juneau, AK
Member since Jan 2009
298087 posts
Posted on 6/8/19 at 7:47 am to
Yep. What info are you looking for?
Posted by Globetrotter747
Member since Sep 2017
5345 posts
Posted on 6/8/19 at 8:24 am to
quote:

Yep. What info are you looking for?


Well, I am going to be in Alaska on a solo trip in a few weeks (late June into early July) and want to do as much as I can and have thought about driving the Dalton Highway.

I know a lot of rental companies won't let you drive it. But just how tough a drive is it in the middle of summer?
Posted by RogerTheShrubber
Juneau, AK
Member since Jan 2009
298087 posts
Posted on 6/8/19 at 8:42 am to
quote:

But just how tough a drive is it in the middle of summer?


Generally not bad. It can vary year to year but it will be dirty and dusty, but if you take it slow you'll have no problems.

The area around Atigun Pass is the worst. Lots of curves. Mainly gravel, some steep grades

I highly recommend the Denali Highway if you want a long, lonely drive.
This post was edited on 6/8/19 at 8:49 am
Posted by Dam Guide
Member since Sep 2005
16570 posts
Posted on 6/8/19 at 9:21 am to
quote:

I know a lot of rental companies won't let you drive it. But just how tough a drive is it in the middle of summer?


It’s not a tough drive by any means in the summer, it’s more of a damaging drive and rentals don’t want that. I did it on a motorcycle. The suit I wore still is stained with the silt and shite from the road. The big trucks are a pain in the arse to pass because of the dust/debris they throw and you got to be careful you don’t pass one while something else is coming.

Paint jobs get chipped to fricking hell, this is why they don’t want you on that road.
Posted by RogerTheShrubber
Juneau, AK
Member since Jan 2009
298087 posts
Posted on 6/8/19 at 10:16 am to
Oder a copy of the Milepost if you haven't gotten one already. It will give you way more information on the roads than you'll find anywhere else.
Posted by Globetrotter747
Member since Sep 2017
5345 posts
Posted on 6/8/19 at 1:30 pm to
Couple of questions, Roger.

1. What do you think are the 3-4 most scenic roads in Alaska?

2. What do you think are the 3-4 most scenic spots or day hiking trails in Alaska?

3. Best places to see grizzly bears?

4. Is the Dalton Highway really scenic or is overrated?
Posted by RogerTheShrubber
Juneau, AK
Member since Jan 2009
298087 posts
Posted on 6/8/19 at 1:59 pm to
quote:


1. What do you think are the 3-4 most scenic roads in Alaska?


Seward Hwy
Denali Hwy
Richardson Hwy
White Pass or Chilkat Pass in SE


quote:

2. What do you think are the 3-4 most scenic spots or day hiking trails in Alaska?


Seward or Juneau.

You heard of the Chilkoot Pass? Its not a day hike, but international. 2-4 days, from Skagway AK to Lake Bennett in BC.

quote:

3. Best places to see grizzly bears?


Katmai or Lake Clark in S. Central. Admiralty Island in SE. All would require flying. You can see them almost anywhere though

quote:

4. Is the Dalton Highway really scenic or is overrated?


Not sure. I guess it depends on what you like? The section through the Brooks Range is incredible, the rest is rather plain. There's nothing really special about the North Slope, once you clear the pass.
This post was edited on 6/8/19 at 3:40 pm
Posted by Tigris
Cloud Cuckoo Land
Member since Jul 2005
13080 posts
Posted on 6/8/19 at 2:25 pm to
quote:

Is the Dalton Highway really scenic or is overrated?


We did it in a VW camper 8 years ago. It is very scenic in the Brooks range, and the feeling of isolation is amazing. But there are more scenic drives in Alaska, you really need to have 2 spare tires (we shredded one of ours just out of Prudhoe Bay and were nervous as hell all the way back), plan on replacing the windshield (3 rocks in ours), and there are long stretches where you are lucky to do 20 MPH because it is very rough (most of the road north of Atigun Pass). And at times they are plowing the road and you end up with large gravel mounds to go through. All that said, I'd really like to do it again.

If it's bears you want you are better to stick with streams, we saw none on the Dalton Highway. The Russian River on the Kenai Peninsula was were that action was.

As Roger said - look at the Denali Highway for some remote, scenic driving.

A few photos from the Dalton Highway:





Arctic Circle - less than 1/2 way, the road gets worse after this.


Coldfoot - halfway, has gas and food and rooms.


Moose in Coldfoot following me while I go to pee. Yikes.


Fireweed along road.


Atigun Pass




French tourist in the Arctic Sea. Water was barely above freezing and there were snow flurries later. But in the 70's in the Brooks range. The ocean cools Deadhorse.


Arctic Sea


Leaving Deadhorse


470 miles to go.




Musk Ox - we were lucky to see them


Getting back to the Brooks Range
Posted by Dam Guide
Member since Sep 2005
16570 posts
Posted on 6/8/19 at 6:03 pm to
quote:

Is the Dalton Highway really scenic or is overrated?


I wouldn't call it overrated, it's not like it's a must do for most people. It's more of a interesting experience. It attracts people who are looking for a different experience. Reality shows and their fake drama have brought more people to it though.

It's scenic, but you can see prettier scenery in other parts of Alaska.
This post was edited on 6/8/19 at 6:04 pm
Posted by Globetrotter747
Member since Sep 2017
5345 posts
Posted on 6/8/19 at 9:29 pm to
quote:

Seward Hwy Denali Hwy Richardson Hwy White Pass or Chilkat Pass in SE


What's your opinion on the Glenn Highway?

quote:

Katmai or Lake Clark in S. Central. Admiralty Island in SE. All would require flying. You can see them almost anywhere though


What about with only a car?

quote:

A few photos from the Dalton Highway:


Great pictures. What's the drive like to the Arctic Circle sign? Is the road in better shape further south or is it pretty much all the same throughout?

I would love to make this drive, but I don't want to deal with flat tires and having whatever vehicle I am driving get beat to hell.
Posted by RogerTheShrubber
Juneau, AK
Member since Jan 2009
298087 posts
Posted on 6/8/19 at 9:42 pm to
quote:

What's your opinion on the Glenn Highway?


The Glenn is pretty sweet. Particularly around Chickaloon.

quote:

What about with only a car?



Haines, Ak but it's pretty far from South Central
The Kenai. Russian River is a good spot when the sockeye are running.
Denali, in the backcountry.
Or you could just see one running the neighborhoods in Anchorage hillside, or near the State Park in Eagle River.

Big brown bear are more prevalent on the ABC Islands of Southeast or the coastal areas Southwest of Anchorage. But you could randomly see one anywhere
This post was edited on 6/8/19 at 9:49 pm
Posted by Tigris
Cloud Cuckoo Land
Member since Jul 2005
13080 posts
Posted on 6/9/19 at 6:01 am to
quote:

What's the drive like to the Arctic Circle sign? Is the road in better shape further south or is it pretty much all the same throughout?


When we did it a little more than half the road was paved getting to the Arctic Circle sign, it was the best section of road. More people drive there and turn around than go on to Deadhorse. Road conditions in Alaska change every year because of the frost heaves so 2011 road conditions don't necessarily mean much now. The Yukon river is on the stretch to the sign too, and it's an interesting stop, also has gas and food. It's a reasonably scenic drive getting to the sign but starts getting more scenic shortly after because you are getting closer to the Brooks range. We decided to push on to Coldfoot for that reason, and then said we needed to make it to Atigun pass, and then said F it and went on to Deadhorse. You could just set out with different turn around points in mind depending on conditions. The worst road was north of Atigun to Deadhorse, and that is also the least scenic stretch.
Posted by RogerTheShrubber
Juneau, AK
Member since Jan 2009
298087 posts
Posted on 6/9/19 at 8:18 am to
quote:

I would love to make this drive, but I don't want to deal with flat tires and having whatever vehicle I am driving get beat to hell.


Drive up to Coldfoot Camp and ask about the road conditions going North. It's the best way to get current information as that road is always changing. The station is basically a truck stop.

Coldfoot is the last services before the Slope.
Posted by SloaneRanger
Upper Hurstville
Member since Jan 2014
12963 posts
Posted on 6/9/19 at 11:23 am to
Great pics.
Posted by Globetrotter747
Member since Sep 2017
5345 posts
Posted on 6/9/19 at 1:13 pm to
Any thoughts on the Haines Highway?
Posted by RogerTheShrubber
Juneau, AK
Member since Jan 2009
298087 posts
Posted on 6/9/19 at 1:20 pm to
quote:

Any thoughts on the Haines Highway?


Absolutely gorgeous, as is the Klondike Highway. Both are short though.

The Haines Highway skirts Kluane NP in Canada which is spectacular. Kluane/Wrangell St Elias/Glacier Bay/Tatshenshini-Alsek make the largest world heritage park in the world. They're all connected.
Posted by Globetrotter747
Member since Sep 2017
5345 posts
Posted on 6/9/19 at 1:32 pm to
How would you compare them to the roads we have already mentioned (Seward, Glenn, Richardson, and so forth)?
Posted by RogerTheShrubber
Juneau, AK
Member since Jan 2009
298087 posts
Posted on 6/9/19 at 2:02 pm to
quote:

How would you compare them to the roads we have already mentioned (Seward, Glenn, Richardson, and so forth)?


Different. Similar mountain scenery but you end up at tidewater. Kid of a combo of the Glenn and Seward HWY.

Dropping down into Haines is gorgeous. Lots of alpine glaciers.
Posted by Globetrotter747
Member since Sep 2017
5345 posts
Posted on 6/9/19 at 2:34 pm to
Sounds good. I appreciate all of your insight.

I love driving mountain roads. I have done many here in the continental US. My favorite, though, is the Icefields Parkway in Canada.
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