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re: Going to Hawaii (Big Island) for a week. Recommendations?

Posted on 7/15/25 at 11:42 am to
Posted by lsujag
Member since Jan 2012
2804 posts
Posted on 7/15/25 at 11:42 am to
You are not getting to the summit if you don’t have a 4 wheel drive. The rangers won’t let you past the visitor center. They also check your brakes after coming back to make sure they aren’t too hot. If they are you’ll have to wait for them to cooldown.

The 4 wheel drive requirement is a way to protect the visitors. It restricts your speed on the decent thus reducing the amount of braking.
This post was edited on 7/15/25 at 11:48 am
Posted by SUB
Silver Tier TD Premium
Member since Jan 2009
24706 posts
Posted on 7/15/25 at 12:45 pm to
quote:

The 4 wheel drive requirement is a way to protect the visitors. It restricts your speed on the decent thus reducing the amount of braking.


I understand. But my AWD has the ability to shift into all 5 gears. I've used it several times when coming down mountains so I don't burn up my brakes, and it's worked fine.
This post was edited on 7/15/25 at 12:46 pm
Posted by Skenes
Member since Mar 2025
407 posts
Posted on 7/15/25 at 2:38 pm to
Do a helicopter tour, highly recommend....
Also, the underwater scooter tours are great.



Traffic is an absolute bitch... As they don't have 5+ other ways around it. Make sure you book for certain hikes/beaches as they've cracked down on some tourist spots. The hike up Diamond head isn't horrible but can be crowded and you need reservations now. Great views when you get to the top, but frick that 100+ flight of stairs.
This post was edited on 7/15/25 at 2:41 pm
Posted by lsujag
Member since Jan 2012
2804 posts
Posted on 7/15/25 at 6:42 pm to
I understand what you are saying but they aren’t letting you up without it. Also don’t think you realize how steep it is. I’d love to tell you you can go up in your rental, but it isn’t going to happen. Why don’t you switch rental cars and get you a jeep? I would recommend getting something of the ground. There are lots of places where you need something with clearance.
Posted by SUB
Silver Tier TD Premium
Member since Jan 2009
24706 posts
Posted on 7/15/25 at 7:21 pm to
Gotcha. I read that they make some exceptions going to the summit but I’ve also read they stopped letting anyone but 4WD. It’s too late for me to switch cars, but the crosstrek has decent clearance at about 9”.

I appreciate all the advice. Thank you!
Posted by Snoop Dawg
Member since Sep 2009
2846 posts
Posted on 7/15/25 at 8:07 pm to
The drive up and down Mauna Kea isn’t bad. Especially if you have driven Pikes Peak. Mt. Washington is worse than both. I believe they require the 4wd past the Mauna Kea visitors center because it is safer riding down the mountain on the gravel road in low gear with 4wd.

If you have a Jeep and tell the ranger you have driven Pikes Peak and know to drive down in low gear rather than braking, you will be waved through after a quick warning regarding altitude sickness.
Posted by SUB
Silver Tier TD Premium
Member since Jan 2009
24706 posts
Posted on 7/15/25 at 9:42 pm to
Is it worth going up to the visitors center only?

Yeah the gravel I can see being a bit of a challenge.
Posted by Snoop Dawg
Member since Sep 2009
2846 posts
Posted on 7/15/25 at 9:55 pm to
No, the visitors center alone isn’t worth it. Your time would be better spent hiking to a secluded beach north of Kona with a view of the mountain instead. Some of those beaches have views of Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, and Haleakala. Have to be north towards Waikoloa Beach for Mauna Loa though, as it gets obstructed by Hualalai towards Kona town.

Also, the gravel road to the summit is in great shape. Well maintained, compacted, etc. They just must be overly cautious with their vehicle restrictions.
Posted by SUB
Silver Tier TD Premium
Member since Jan 2009
24706 posts
Posted on 7/16/25 at 10:00 am to
quote:

Your time would be better spent hiking to a secluded beach north of Kona with a view of the mountain instead


This is my kind of stuff to do. Do you remember the names of your favorites hikes / hikes to beaches?
Posted by Gilly
Member since Jan 2014
181 posts
Posted on 7/16/25 at 4:01 pm to
We drove to Kona from Hilo over the mountain after a football game. It was little scary at night but we survived.
Posted by Snoop Dawg
Member since Sep 2009
2846 posts
Posted on 7/16/25 at 9:07 pm to
quote:

This is my kind of stuff to do. Do you remember the names of your favorites hikes / hikes to beaches?


There are many great ones, which I recommend the book in a previous post. The author lives in Hawaii and nerds out on stuff like that. Since you have an AWD with decent clearance, most are available to you.

Kihola Bay - two access points. One off highway, one down a crooked road. Both great. The highway access crosses lava flows with cairns marking the route to super remote beach due to hike. The road access provides better beach, but more people.


Hike south from Lava Lava Beach Club - an easy way for private to semi private beach is to park at the A Bay Beach parking, and hike south along beach.

Kua Bay - More of a drive in and busy, but here’s where to surf or bodyboard.

Mak’s Beach - Crooked drive plus hike. Great payoff, maybe best beach, but I have found easier options to good spots, so I don’t rank this as high as others may.

For sea turtles - Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park, head to the south most part for reliable turtle sightings.


Posted by Snoop Dawg
Member since Sep 2009
2846 posts
Posted on 7/16/25 at 9:36 pm to
Another one I just remembered is Kekaha Kai State Park. I think I needed a Jeep to make it all the way, but a great one too if you hike north past the more crowded* beach.

* - the word “crowded” used in the two posts above, other than Kua Bay, means more than two or three parties. If you are willingly to effort it, there are many spots where you can savor alone.
Posted by lsujag
Member since Jan 2012
2804 posts
Posted on 7/17/25 at 2:04 am to
The Kekaha Kai state park is another way to get to Maks. When he talks about the more crowed beach, he’s not lying when he says maybe more than 2 or 3 parties but barely more than 5 or 6. We always hike to Maks from here. This past year we stopped and spent the day here because there was a front coming in and didn’t want to get caught at Maks and have to walk back if it came through. Luckily it held off but that day, Kauai, Oahu and Maui experienced terrible weather and most flights from mainland were diverted to KOA for about 6 hrs. All flights flew directly over this beach. It’s was pretty cool watching so many planes come in. The airport looked like an airplane graveyard with so many planes on the runways. The beach isn’t far from were you park but you will need clearance to get back there. Also, there is a black beach south but you have to walk a pretty good ways through lava fields. If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask. Hawaii is my favorite of the 4 islands.
Posted by SUB
Silver Tier TD Premium
Member since Jan 2009
24706 posts
Posted on 7/17/25 at 11:33 am to
Thank you and Snoop for all the great recommendations!
Posted by SUB
Silver Tier TD Premium
Member since Jan 2009
24706 posts
Posted on 7/21/25 at 4:45 am to
Welp. Am on the big island now. Yesterday, Went to the sea turtle beach on Kona side and saw about 8 turtles within 10 feet of me. Awesome. Drove up the to the north side along the coast, had some Poke, then kept driving. Was astounding how the landscape changed from dry and desolate to lush and green. Saw some surfers at Keila’s beach park. Then drove back to Kona but through an alternate route to Waimea. Was an incredible drive. It reminded me of the green hills from
The movie “Toys” with Robin willliams.

Today, I found out the volcano was erupting so we got down to the park around 9 and it was amazing. Got some awesome views of it. Then did the lava tube and had lunch at Thai Thai bistro, which was awesome. May be the best green curry I’ve ever had. Then did a crazy hike starting at the Puna trailhead. It ends in a black sand beach and lots to see. Saw a huge eel in a tidepool down there.

After that, headed back to Kona and did some swimming with Manta Rays, which was a highlight of the day.

Probably going down to green sand beach tomorrow and captain cook. Can’t wait!
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