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re: So, I'm in the process of planning out my media closet. Help me please.
Posted on 11/11/14 at 6:48 pm to VanRIch
Posted on 11/11/14 at 6:48 pm to VanRIch
Run at least two HDMI cables. Some devices may not work exactly right going through an AVR, and connecting directly to the TV can solve that problem. If you have an AVR with two HDMI outputs, it will allow you to connect them to two TV inputs and calibrate those inputs separately. I use this to get the best out of devices that (by default) use standard Video Levels and my gaming PC, which naturally is configured for PC Levels.
Definitely run an optical cable from the TV even if you don't hook it up. ARC can be finicky, and some HDMI-CEC crapola may come with it. Optical will always work and has no side-effects.
Use wired Ethernet for everything you can.
Don't connect the Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 system to your AVR. These are computer speakers, and the sub contains the amp for all the satellites. (Sorry, couldn't resist.
)
As you are looking at AVRs, I would recommend the Pioneer VSX-1124, which is a steal at $396 (and usually a short-lived one; it often bounces up to $596 and in between):
LINK
I own it. People complain it doesn't have wireless built-in, and the on-screen interface is dated, but I don't care about either, and I think it's great after a couple of months usage with two PCs, BD player/streamer, and as an AirPlay target (audio only). It replaced a 2009 model Pioneer Elite, and before that, I had Denon and Yamaha AVRs. Onkyo dropped Audyssey this year and replaced it with its own AccuEQ, which from what I've read, does not(!) EQ the fronts, at least not in stereo mode. I would research it before buying one. I find Pioneer's MCACC to do a nice job, and the version in the 1124 does EQ the sub along with the rest of the speakers. This is probably the last year for the Pioneer brand in home audio, as Onkyo recently bought that part of the company.
I don't do multi-zone, but the 1124 has a Zone 2 and something called HD Zone. For zone stuff, I'd download the manuals and google for discussions of the feature for the specific AVR. People always seem to need help with zone operation.
Definitely run an optical cable from the TV even if you don't hook it up. ARC can be finicky, and some HDMI-CEC crapola may come with it. Optical will always work and has no side-effects.
Use wired Ethernet for everything you can.
Don't connect the Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 system to your AVR. These are computer speakers, and the sub contains the amp for all the satellites. (Sorry, couldn't resist.
As you are looking at AVRs, I would recommend the Pioneer VSX-1124, which is a steal at $396 (and usually a short-lived one; it often bounces up to $596 and in between):
LINK
I own it. People complain it doesn't have wireless built-in, and the on-screen interface is dated, but I don't care about either, and I think it's great after a couple of months usage with two PCs, BD player/streamer, and as an AirPlay target (audio only). It replaced a 2009 model Pioneer Elite, and before that, I had Denon and Yamaha AVRs. Onkyo dropped Audyssey this year and replaced it with its own AccuEQ, which from what I've read, does not(!) EQ the fronts, at least not in stereo mode. I would research it before buying one. I find Pioneer's MCACC to do a nice job, and the version in the 1124 does EQ the sub along with the rest of the speakers. This is probably the last year for the Pioneer brand in home audio, as Onkyo recently bought that part of the company.
I don't do multi-zone, but the 1124 has a Zone 2 and something called HD Zone. For zone stuff, I'd download the manuals and google for discussions of the feature for the specific AVR. People always seem to need help with zone operation.
Posted on 11/11/14 at 7:34 pm to VanRIch
If you want to play music with different zones throughout your house, I highly recommend Sonos instead of a zoned receiver. It works incredibly well and allows easier control of your music and rooms via an iOS or Android device.
While the new stuff may seem expensive, you can pick up older components that do the exact same thing as the newest components and save up to 50% on cost. Basically you would install your speakers throughout the house and buy a ZP 80/90/100/120 device or a Connect device (newer version of the ZPs) for each zone. There are two different devices, one with a built in amp and one without that you connect to speakers or to a receiver with speakers connected.
When I was deciding what to install, I was dead set on buying a brand new receiver with multiple zones. I wanted to be able to control everything from my iPad and not have to visit my media closet to physically select speakers to play music. While the Yamaha and Pioneer receivers are good quality, the reviews on the way their zones worked still left something to be desired IMO. That is when I settled on spending a little extra money and buying Sonos components. There is nothing about my decision that I regret.
I've posted this before, but here is a rudimentary diagram of my setup. I can try to answer any questions you may have.
While the new stuff may seem expensive, you can pick up older components that do the exact same thing as the newest components and save up to 50% on cost. Basically you would install your speakers throughout the house and buy a ZP 80/90/100/120 device or a Connect device (newer version of the ZPs) for each zone. There are two different devices, one with a built in amp and one without that you connect to speakers or to a receiver with speakers connected.
When I was deciding what to install, I was dead set on buying a brand new receiver with multiple zones. I wanted to be able to control everything from my iPad and not have to visit my media closet to physically select speakers to play music. While the Yamaha and Pioneer receivers are good quality, the reviews on the way their zones worked still left something to be desired IMO. That is when I settled on spending a little extra money and buying Sonos components. There is nothing about my decision that I regret.
I've posted this before, but here is a rudimentary diagram of my setup. I can try to answer any questions you may have.
This post was edited on 11/11/14 at 7:42 pm
Posted on 11/11/14 at 7:58 pm to VanRIch
Make sure you have adequate ventalation. Also, make sure you fit a standard 24u rack. Have at least one dedicated 20a circuit. Lastly, make sure you have an overhead light.
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