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Help With New TV
Posted on 10/10/20 at 9:20 am
Posted on 10/10/20 at 9:20 am
I woke up this morning and I’ve got a white spot on my TV. I’m going to have to get another one. I’ve always liked and had good luck with Samsung TV’s. I’m looking at either a 70” or 75” Samsung. I’m not a big tech guy so I don’t know what the difference between the different Series 6,7,8, etc versus the Q70, Q80,Q90, etc. I know the higher you go the more expensive they get and you’re supposedly getting a better picture. Can any of you explain this to me and help me decide what I should go with? I’m not looking for a big screen with a bad picture. I also don’t need to have the top of the line either. I’d be upgrading from a 55” Samsung. Any help would be appreciated.
1
Posted on 10/10/20 at 10:26 am to damonster
If you are sticking with Samsung then it's pretty straight forward just need to decide what features you want.
Once you start looking at higher end Samsung's then it becomes a question why buy those when you can get an LG OLED which provides a far superior picture.
Once you start looking at higher end Samsung's then it becomes a question why buy those when you can get an LG OLED which provides a far superior picture.
Posted on 10/10/20 at 11:06 am to UltimaParadox
What’s the difference between the Series 7 or 8 UHD TVs and the Q70 or 80s? Are the Q models the higher end Samsung’s? Also, I got to thinking about it and the lights flickered a few times last night when the storm was coming through. I didn’t notice the spot on the TV until this morning. TV is on a surge protector. Is there something better that I can use instead of a surge protector? I don’t want to take the chance of getting a nice new TV if a power surge caused this.
This post was edited on 10/10/20 at 11:27 am
Posted on 10/10/20 at 11:55 am to damonster
It can be quite a headache to distinguish between some of the specs of each model. There is usually a difference in processors and sometimes the differences are just marketing terms that are really hard to know what they mean.
LINK
Also a lot of surge protectors are just power strips. They don't offer any protection from a power surge.
Best Surge Protector
LINK
quote:
1000 is far more than 10, so surely HDR 1000 must be far better than HDR10. Except they’re completely different things. HDR 1000 is merely a commercial feature name from Samsung to indicate that certain TV model delivers 1000 nits peak brightness. It doesn’t seem to mean much else. Similarly, Samsung’s got HDR 1500 (1,500 nits peak brightness) and HDR 2000, which rather confusingly also goes by the name of QHDR (perhaps because it’s intrinsically linked to Samsung’s QLED range) and Q HDR 2000. It seems everything at Samsung is Q now – Q Color, Q Contrast Ultimate, Q Viewing Angle, Q Display and even Q Engine. Oh and depending on the country you’re based in, Samsung’s also offers Q Picture, Q Style and Q Smart. In a similar fashion, a few years earlier everything at Samsung started with an S, notably SUHD.
Also a lot of surge protectors are just power strips. They don't offer any protection from a power surge.
Best Surge Protector
Posted on 10/10/20 at 12:04 pm to JoeHackett
I would also read these.
Best LCD/LED TV
Best 4k TV on a Budget
There are some other good articles at CNET and avforums is a good message board to check out. Like I said though, your head will start spinning at some point.
Best LCD/LED TV
Best 4k TV on a Budget
There are some other good articles at CNET and avforums is a good message board to check out. Like I said though, your head will start spinning at some point.
This post was edited on 10/10/20 at 12:06 pm
Posted on 10/10/20 at 1:13 pm to JoeHackett
I believe I’m already there. I just want to get a nice TV. I don’t mind paying for quality but, I don’t want to pay a fortune for one. I also don’t want the Wal-Mart special that has a bad picture.
Posted on 10/10/20 at 4:02 pm to UltimaParadox
If any item needs protection, then every appliance (many less robust than a TV) must be protected. Including dishwasher, clock radios, central air, LED & CFL bulbs, refrigerator, recharging electronics, GFCIs, washing machine, furnace, door bell, and smoke detectors. What protects all? Same thing that protects a less robust household appliance - that plug-in protector.
Protection only exists when a destructive transient is nowhere inside. When those hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate outside. How many joules will a magic power strip dissipate? Thousand? Near zero.
A surge too tiny to damage electronics may also destroy that obscenely profitable protector. That failure gets many to recommend that tiny joule protector. And buy more.
An IEEE brochure clearly demonstrated the problem. A protector in one room (without a low impedance connection to earth ground) earthed a surge destructively through a TV in the adjacent room. IEEE even said how destructively - 8,000 volts.
Once a surge is inside, then nothing will avert a destructive hunt for earth ground. Informed consumers connect a 'whole house' protector low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) to what does all protection. Single point earth ground.
Protectors that do not claim such protection have no low impedance connection to earth. Have no dedicated wire to make that connection. Typically cost tens of times more money per protected appliance. And have no numbers that claim protection.
Some numbers: Lightning is typically 20,000 amps. So a minimal 'whole house' protector is 50,000 amps. Only protectors, that do not fail, provide effective protection. Remain functional for decades. And will also avert this: LINK /
> A plug caught fire in my room (which was plugged into a surge protecter) it was caused by a power surge and caused my tank to burst.
Protection only exists when a destructive transient (ie lightning is only one example) is not anywhere inside. Facilities, that cannot have damage, do not use plug-in boxes. And always earth a surge BEFORE it can enter.
Protection only exists when a destructive transient is nowhere inside. When those hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate outside. How many joules will a magic power strip dissipate? Thousand? Near zero.
A surge too tiny to damage electronics may also destroy that obscenely profitable protector. That failure gets many to recommend that tiny joule protector. And buy more.
An IEEE brochure clearly demonstrated the problem. A protector in one room (without a low impedance connection to earth ground) earthed a surge destructively through a TV in the adjacent room. IEEE even said how destructively - 8,000 volts.
Once a surge is inside, then nothing will avert a destructive hunt for earth ground. Informed consumers connect a 'whole house' protector low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) to what does all protection. Single point earth ground.
Protectors that do not claim such protection have no low impedance connection to earth. Have no dedicated wire to make that connection. Typically cost tens of times more money per protected appliance. And have no numbers that claim protection.
Some numbers: Lightning is typically 20,000 amps. So a minimal 'whole house' protector is 50,000 amps. Only protectors, that do not fail, provide effective protection. Remain functional for decades. And will also avert this: LINK /
> A plug caught fire in my room (which was plugged into a surge protecter) it was caused by a power surge and caused my tank to burst.
Protection only exists when a destructive transient (ie lightning is only one example) is not anywhere inside. Facilities, that cannot have damage, do not use plug-in boxes. And always earth a surge BEFORE it can enter.
Posted on 10/10/20 at 6:17 pm to westom
Wouldn’t the ground rod outside the house prevent that? I’m not an electrician but, I thought this scenario was the reason why you ground something. I read the article and am wondering if the best thing to do is change surge protectors out like I would an air condition filter? If the surge protectors wear out over time due to surges that make them useless, it makes sense to change them out. I’m just trying to decide on what TV to buy and don’t want to get it home only to have it burn out if a power surge happens.
Posted on 10/10/20 at 9:38 pm to westom
quote:
westom
30 posts and everyone one of them is about surge protectors.
Posted on 10/11/20 at 11:13 am to damonster
Protection only exists when each wire connects to that earthing electrode. Three AC wires enter. Only one connects directly to earth.
A lightning strike many blocks away mean a surge is incoming and hunting for earth ground destructively via appliances. Incoming on those other two wires that have no earth ground. Those connects a direct lightning strikes into all household appliances.
TV cable has no protector. A low impedance (ie less than 10 foot) hardwire must connect from cable to earth ground electrodes. Installed for free because it is required by codes and industry standards. Then TV cable has best protection.
Telephone cannot connect direct to earth. So a protector must connect each telephone wire to those earthing electrodes. Also low impedance (ie hardwire has no sharp bends or splices). That protector is only doing what a TV cable's hardwire does better. Connect low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) to single point earth ground.
AC electric has no protection if one does not properly earth a 'whole house' protector. Effective protectors come from other companies known for integrity. Including Intermatic, Square D, Ditek, Siemens, Polyphaser, Syscom, Leviton, ABB, Delta, Erico, and Cutler-Hammer (Eaton).
Direct lightning strikes (incoming to appliances) can be 20,000 amps. So a minimal 'whole house' protector is 50,000 amps. Only scam protectors fail on a surge. That 'whole house' protector must remain functional for many decades after many direct lightning strikes. And typically costs tens or 100 times less money (per appliance) compared to ineffective profit centers marketed as protectors.
Effective solution always answers this question. Where do hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate? No protector does protection. A protector is only as effective as its low impedance (ie hardwire not inside metallic conduit) connection to and the quality of earth ground. (Obviously wall receptacle safety ground is not earth ground.)
A lightning strike many blocks away mean a surge is incoming and hunting for earth ground destructively via appliances. Incoming on those other two wires that have no earth ground. Those connects a direct lightning strikes into all household appliances.
TV cable has no protector. A low impedance (ie less than 10 foot) hardwire must connect from cable to earth ground electrodes. Installed for free because it is required by codes and industry standards. Then TV cable has best protection.
Telephone cannot connect direct to earth. So a protector must connect each telephone wire to those earthing electrodes. Also low impedance (ie hardwire has no sharp bends or splices). That protector is only doing what a TV cable's hardwire does better. Connect low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) to single point earth ground.
AC electric has no protection if one does not properly earth a 'whole house' protector. Effective protectors come from other companies known for integrity. Including Intermatic, Square D, Ditek, Siemens, Polyphaser, Syscom, Leviton, ABB, Delta, Erico, and Cutler-Hammer (Eaton).
Direct lightning strikes (incoming to appliances) can be 20,000 amps. So a minimal 'whole house' protector is 50,000 amps. Only scam protectors fail on a surge. That 'whole house' protector must remain functional for many decades after many direct lightning strikes. And typically costs tens or 100 times less money (per appliance) compared to ineffective profit centers marketed as protectors.
Effective solution always answers this question. Where do hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate? No protector does protection. A protector is only as effective as its low impedance (ie hardwire not inside metallic conduit) connection to and the quality of earth ground. (Obviously wall receptacle safety ground is not earth ground.)
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