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Truck A/C pressure question.
Posted on 7/9/18 at 9:02 pm
Posted on 7/9/18 at 9:02 pm
Does this chart look legit? Seems the high pressure side is a bit on the high end.
My 2013 f250 has idle pressures of 36/250. At 2000 rpms it's at 27/260. That would lead to being low. At 95-100 degree outside. Seems as simple as the chart but wanted to make sure this chart looks ok.
I can get maybe a 20 degree pressure drop running but still doesn't seem to cool off.
Thanks
My 2013 f250 has idle pressures of 36/250. At 2000 rpms it's at 27/260. That would lead to being low. At 95-100 degree outside. Seems as simple as the chart but wanted to make sure this chart looks ok.
I can get maybe a 20 degree pressure drop running but still doesn't seem to cool off.
Thanks
Posted on 7/9/18 at 9:56 pm to thejudge
Did you have the system set to MAX AC? High-side pressure is a function of the heat being absorbed by the evaporator, if you are recirculating cabin air then the high-side pressure will show lower than what the chart suggests. Also, every make/model has their own pressure specs. Under 40 psi on the low-side in these temps would have me looking for a leak with a UV light though.
Posted on 7/9/18 at 10:53 pm to thejudge
My truck cools most with around 55-60psi on the low side, and like 275 on the high side. That's idling with the A/C on max and a fan blowing on the front
That is a pretty good guide. Check to see if you can find OEM specs. They are sometimes on a sticker under the hood
That is a pretty good guide. Check to see if you can find OEM specs. They are sometimes on a sticker under the hood
This post was edited on 7/9/18 at 11:30 pm
Posted on 7/9/18 at 11:01 pm to Hammertime
quote:
and a fan blowing on the front
That's another variable for high-side pressure. I run dual Derale electric fans on my F150 and one is setup to run at max speed anytime the AC is on. The high-side pressure really drops if both fans come on though.
Posted on 7/10/18 at 6:30 am to Hammertime
Ok thanks I'll look with a light. It's used and I check the pressures in February when I bought it when I was going over the truck. The pressures then correlated to what I have now with the temps higher so it seems if there is a leak it's pretty small.
I appreciate the help. Just wanted some confirmation of these pressures. It seems there can be a difference with systems running an orifice vs expansion valves or so I've read.
I have everything set to Max and had the doors open to make sure it was using max the whole time
I appreciate the help. Just wanted some confirmation of these pressures. It seems there can be a difference with systems running an orifice vs expansion valves or so I've read.
I have everything set to Max and had the doors open to make sure it was using max the whole time
This post was edited on 7/10/18 at 6:35 am
Posted on 7/10/18 at 7:08 am to thejudge
Found this F150 info for you. Thread says it needs 1.5lbs of refrigerant, and these pressures. Not sure if they have the same amount of freon or not. Going off of this, I'd do 50-55, and hope for 275 on the high side. It should be the same for every vehicle, but different quantities.


This post was edited on 7/10/18 at 7:11 am
Posted on 7/10/18 at 8:01 am to thejudge
yiu should check pressures with a/c on high max cool and windows down so cold air isnt being recirculated
also those charts are a guide and arent meant to be a check list to diagnose anything, every system is a little different and acts a little different
also those charts are a guide and arent meant to be a check list to diagnose anything, every system is a little different and acts a little different
Posted on 7/10/18 at 9:04 am to thejudge
I'm going to take it that you don't have the equipment to recover-vacuum-and charge the system. Here's what I would do. I make certain windows are up ( absolutely not down)-system on Max and run at approximately 1600 rpms. Feel the smaller line going into the evaporator then feel larger line coming out. If it's cold going in but not as cold coming out the you are indeed low on freon. Low side at 2000 rpm is not far off. A system that is 45-55 ( on a single evaporator system) at idle and drops down to 25-35 on elevated rpm is indicative of a weak compressor. The telltale on this is the system cools better while driving then it does at idle. A dual evap system will typically have low side readings of 40-50 at idle. High side readings can vary greatly depending on many factors. One rule of thumb is twice the temp of the day plus 15%. This is ballpark-not exact. Your hi side readings are close enough to not raise concern. Your chart is "legit" but not religion. Don't get stuck trying to fit exactly into the charts. I think your system is just a little low on refrigerant. If you do have the equipment to recover-vacuum-and charge to correct spec I would do that first so you start with knowing charge is correct. Good luck with it.
This post was edited on 7/10/18 at 9:20 am
Posted on 7/10/18 at 9:34 am to windmill
quote:I have a guy that'll do it for free for me. All he does is hook it up to a machine that is on wheels, so I don't suspect it would be expensive
recover-vacuum-and charge
Posted on 7/10/18 at 10:39 am to Hammertime
That's cool-that'll save a good bit right there. That's quite an advantage. There are so many factors effecting a system that adding some freon and checking it again and wondering vs. just pulling it down-vac-charge takes freon level out of the equation at diagnostic time.
Posted on 7/10/18 at 11:07 am to windmill
Thanks for this post.
That's what I was looking for. A blanket chart isn't a one for all as we know. On the right track diagnostic wise beside just pressure and gauges is what I was looking for. More troubleshooting techniques. If this does not work and there is still concern I will bring it somewhere. I prefer the idea of being able to accurately add the amount of coolant by weight.
I cant reclaim but I do have access to a vacuum pump and gauges. As well as a small scale I can weigh I just do not want to just vent all the refrigerant out. I'm not a tree hugger but I don't want to dump all that shite into the atmosphere for zero reason.
Thanks
That's what I was looking for. A blanket chart isn't a one for all as we know. On the right track diagnostic wise beside just pressure and gauges is what I was looking for. More troubleshooting techniques. If this does not work and there is still concern I will bring it somewhere. I prefer the idea of being able to accurately add the amount of coolant by weight.
I cant reclaim but I do have access to a vacuum pump and gauges. As well as a small scale I can weigh I just do not want to just vent all the refrigerant out. I'm not a tree hugger but I don't want to dump all that shite into the atmosphere for zero reason.
Thanks
Posted on 7/10/18 at 5:37 pm to thejudge
Lines were not cool coming out as it seemed they should be. I added some refrigerant. 42 on suction but 350-375 (which bothers me some )on discharge. Suction pressure seemed ok. I stopped adding watching the high side creep up. Quit once vent temps hit 30 degree drop.
If I run water on the condenser the pressures drop dramatically on the high side and quick. Washed and made sure the condenser is clean.
Dropping 30 degrees at the vent now. Put some UV dye in and will wait for dark with a light and see if there is a leak.
If I run water on the condenser the pressures drop dramatically on the high side and quick. Washed and made sure the condenser is clean.
Dropping 30 degrees at the vent now. Put some UV dye in and will wait for dark with a light and see if there is a leak.
Posted on 7/10/18 at 6:02 pm to thejudge
A leak may very well not show up so soon. I charge and dye many systems and tell them to come back in a couple of weeks or when it stops performing well. A substantial leak will show quickly and if you had a substantial leak you would have been out of freon or close to it instead of just a bit low.
Posted on 7/10/18 at 6:31 pm to windmill
Thanks so much for your help. I really appreciate it.
Thank you
Thank you
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