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Started By
Message
Sig P226, convert from DAK to DA/SA
Posted on 7/22/23 at 11:12 am
Posted on 7/22/23 at 11:12 am
So I picked up a 9mm P226 in really good shape, but in DAK configuration.
I also have an older West German P226 that I just got refinished. Shooting both, I just prefer traditional DA/SA.
I want to convert the DAK to that. I've seen some online posts, it looks like close to $200 for the parts, and some older posts on Sig forums say Sig Custom Shop will do it around that price.
I don't really want to ship a firearm anywhere right now, with UPS fixing to strike. I'd rather buy the parts and do it myself. Has anyone done this, how hard is it to do? Anyone know the best place to get the required parts?
I also have an older West German P226 that I just got refinished. Shooting both, I just prefer traditional DA/SA.
I want to convert the DAK to that. I've seen some online posts, it looks like close to $200 for the parts, and some older posts on Sig forums say Sig Custom Shop will do it around that price.
I don't really want to ship a firearm anywhere right now, with UPS fixing to strike. I'd rather buy the parts and do it myself. Has anyone done this, how hard is it to do? Anyone know the best place to get the required parts?
2
Posted on 7/22/23 at 1:23 pm to Scoob
Does the DAK mean that's it's always double action? And it's just a lighter DA trigger pull?
This post was edited on 7/22/23 at 1:51 pm
Posted on 7/22/23 at 2:12 pm to Scoob
Top gun supply is a big Sig dealer. Link to their 226 parts
LINK
I would find a local pistolsmith to do the work. Shouldn’t cost too much. There maybe some minor fitting needed to convert it. Older guy Nick at Jim’s in BR is a good pistol guy. He has done some 1911 work for me. They are 3-4 weeks on turnaround at the moment.
LINK
I would find a local pistolsmith to do the work. Shouldn’t cost too much. There maybe some minor fitting needed to convert it. Older guy Nick at Jim’s in BR is a good pistol guy. He has done some 1911 work for me. They are 3-4 weeks on turnaround at the moment.
This post was edited on 7/22/23 at 2:14 pm
Posted on 7/22/23 at 2:51 pm to lsufan1971
So, I went ahead and ordered the parts I needed, and added in the SRT kit.
I used the parts listed from this forum thread
Sigtalk DAK to DA/SA
I'm going to do this at home. Looking at this video, it should not an issue at all
LINK
I've done detailed pistol stripping and reassembling before, on a few of my pistols. 1911, Daewoo DP 51, a couple old Mauser 1914s, etc. I like to tinker around, and this shouldn't be any worse than what I did with the Daewoo.
It's a bit shorter than regular DA, and maybe lighter (but not a whole lot). There IS a reset, but it's long; and the pull is actually a bit heavier.
It's really not terrible, but just not on par with a 'normal' DA/SA to me (having one to compare firsthand).
I'm curious about the SRT kit, since I love short resets (S&W 39/59 styles being the king of these).
I've looked into this before, but hadn't seen that thread. There's a pretty long list of part you need, and going from that original list, I always had trouble sourcing EVERYTHING... the list on this was good. I used Midway and Brownell's, as specified.
Should ship in about a week or 2, I will post how it goes
I used the parts listed from this forum thread
Sigtalk DAK to DA/SA
I'm going to do this at home. Looking at this video, it should not an issue at all
LINK
I've done detailed pistol stripping and reassembling before, on a few of my pistols. 1911, Daewoo DP 51, a couple old Mauser 1914s, etc. I like to tinker around, and this shouldn't be any worse than what I did with the Daewoo.
quote:Yeah, but not DAO, different guts.
Does the DAK mean that's it's always double action? And it's just a lighter DA trigger pull?
It's a bit shorter than regular DA, and maybe lighter (but not a whole lot). There IS a reset, but it's long; and the pull is actually a bit heavier.
It's really not terrible, but just not on par with a 'normal' DA/SA to me (having one to compare firsthand).
I'm curious about the SRT kit, since I love short resets (S&W 39/59 styles being the king of these).
I've looked into this before, but hadn't seen that thread. There's a pretty long list of part you need, and going from that original list, I always had trouble sourcing EVERYTHING... the list on this was good. I used Midway and Brownell's, as specified.
Should ship in about a week or 2, I will post how it goes
Posted on 7/23/23 at 12:00 am to Bama and Beer
quote:Best description of DAK, and I have to agree; it feels like a DA revolver. It's a smooth, rolling pull.
Does the DAK mean that's it's always double action?
It's shorter, but not necessarily lighter, than the DA pull on my WG P226. No comparison to the SA pull. And the reset is about 2/3 of the way to a full trigger release, so if you're accustomed to riding the reset (as I am), it's kinda awkward.
Controls- as there is no SA, there is no decock lever, part of the fun of a Sig for me. Just the slide release, back where I look for a safety.
Posted on 7/23/23 at 3:48 am to Scoob
Learn something new everyday. I'll kindly stay away from the DAK config if ever presented to me
Posted on 7/24/23 at 12:11 am to Bama and Beer
quote:I'd say yes and no;
Learn something new everyday. I'll kindly stay away from the DAK config if ever presented to me
it's not a terrible trigger in itself, and those who like consistent pulls for every shot may like it. I tried to and could see it's point, but it just wasn't for me.
However, on the other hand, you're very likely to get a steep discount on a gun in very good condition if you look around, and you can buy a kit for $150 to convert it
LINK
You may still come out ahead. I didn't find that kit until I already ordered elsewhere for more, but I'm also adding a SRT kit, which raised the price. If you can pick and choose, you certainly might still come out with more gun than what you put into it. I'm confident I will be; this is basically going to be an E2 in VG condition, with SRT kit for $600, spread out over a couple years (initial purchase, now changing to DA/SA). I don't think you will find that in that configuration, for that low.
Posted on 7/25/23 at 8:38 pm to Scoob
Marked for future reference
Posted on 7/28/23 at 10:59 pm to HeadSlash
update
Parts came in. I ordered from Midway and Brownells. Brownells yesterday, Midway came today. I split it around because I ordered the SRT kit, too.
I used the following tools- a couple flathead screwdrivers (one magnetized), a small punch, and a Q tip. I used the punch to push, did not need a hammer to tap even.
Was not hard to strip completely to frame. I then set all pieces to the side, and swapped the following_- hammer, hammer strut, hammer strut spring, sear, safety lever, sear spring (Sear and safety spring is the SRT kit). Added in the following; Decocker, decocker spring, decocker bushing.
I then reassembled using the following video LINK
Note- I did not go so far as to remove the mag release.
I also used this as reference LINK
That's for the SRT kit. It's a more limited video, showing just the sear, sear spring and safety lever... but it gave me visual reference on just how they go in, since they are different physically from OEM in appearance.
99% easy, to do the first time. The one part that got me (had to take back down a few times) was getting the hammer strut correctly into the hammer. That's hard to lay eyes on inside the frame. I ended up pulling a grip off my older West German P226, and saw my issue- The strut needs to go back at a further angle than I had assumed, so it wasn't lining up correctly at first. Once I got the angle right, piece of cake. Used a little marine grease on the decocker lever.
I can't remember what I used the punch on, one of the pins.
**looking at the photo below, I used the punch on the sear pin, that small pin at the very rear of the frame.
They came out easily, you don't need force. I used small punch (about the diameter of a dart tip) for the smallest one, you do need a little length to get it through. The Q tip trick, as detailed in the main assembly video, works fine (the other video the guy uses a "glock tool", but I never needed something that solid).
2 screwdrivers- one magnetized and long, I used to put the sear in place (using the magnet trick from the second video). Nonmagnetic, to push the sear spring past the pin. Either will work to do the trigger pin, and to seat the mainspring housing.
If you're going from DAK to DA/SA, you will probably need to reference this picture to get the hammer strut angle correct. I wish I saw this earlier, would have saved time and frustration.
After doing it, and understanding how the strut fits, I think I could do a full strip to back together in about an hour. That was really the only thing that threw me off, and once I saw how it went, it was no longer an issue.
Parts came in. I ordered from Midway and Brownells. Brownells yesterday, Midway came today. I split it around because I ordered the SRT kit, too.
I used the following tools- a couple flathead screwdrivers (one magnetized), a small punch, and a Q tip. I used the punch to push, did not need a hammer to tap even.
Was not hard to strip completely to frame. I then set all pieces to the side, and swapped the following_- hammer, hammer strut, hammer strut spring, sear, safety lever, sear spring (Sear and safety spring is the SRT kit). Added in the following; Decocker, decocker spring, decocker bushing.
I then reassembled using the following video LINK
Note- I did not go so far as to remove the mag release.
I also used this as reference LINK
That's for the SRT kit. It's a more limited video, showing just the sear, sear spring and safety lever... but it gave me visual reference on just how they go in, since they are different physically from OEM in appearance.
99% easy, to do the first time. The one part that got me (had to take back down a few times) was getting the hammer strut correctly into the hammer. That's hard to lay eyes on inside the frame. I ended up pulling a grip off my older West German P226, and saw my issue- The strut needs to go back at a further angle than I had assumed, so it wasn't lining up correctly at first. Once I got the angle right, piece of cake. Used a little marine grease on the decocker lever.
I can't remember what I used the punch on, one of the pins.
**looking at the photo below, I used the punch on the sear pin, that small pin at the very rear of the frame.
They came out easily, you don't need force. I used small punch (about the diameter of a dart tip) for the smallest one, you do need a little length to get it through. The Q tip trick, as detailed in the main assembly video, works fine (the other video the guy uses a "glock tool", but I never needed something that solid).
2 screwdrivers- one magnetized and long, I used to put the sear in place (using the magnet trick from the second video). Nonmagnetic, to push the sear spring past the pin. Either will work to do the trigger pin, and to seat the mainspring housing.
If you're going from DAK to DA/SA, you will probably need to reference this picture to get the hammer strut angle correct. I wish I saw this earlier, would have saved time and frustration.
After doing it, and understanding how the strut fits, I think I could do a full strip to back together in about an hour. That was really the only thing that threw me off, and once I saw how it went, it was no longer an issue.
This post was edited on 7/28/23 at 11:01 pm
Posted on 7/28/23 at 11:18 pm to Scoob
For purposes of clarity, here's the post from that forum, that I used to order parts.
I ordered the parts in bold
These were all Sig Sauer manufactured parts, came in blue Sig bags. If you don't go with the SRT,
THIS is probably your cheapest option. Note, I don't think they are Sig parts, but instead 3rd party replacements.
I ordered the parts in bold
quote:
This was the list I made of what I needed and where I found the parts.
Due to fluctuations in inventory... your results may vary.
These parts worked on both my P226 and P229. I cannot speak for compatibility with other models.
I also got the short reach trigger and short reset kit. If you order the short reset kit, it already includes a sear and safety lever... so you wont need the OEM DA/SA units.
Decocking Lever / MIDWAY USA
Decocking Lever Spring / MIDWAY USA
Decocking Lever Bearing / MIDWAY USA
Hammer / MIDWAY USA
Hammer Reset Spring / MIDWAY USA
Hammer Strut / BROWNELLS
Mainspring / BROWNELLS
Safety Lever / BROWNELLS (not needed if short reset kit ordered)
Sear / MIDWEST GUN WORKS (not needed if short reset kit ordered)
Sear Spring / MIDWAY USA
Trigger Bar / BROWNELLS
Short trigger / MIDWAY USA
Short reset kit / MIDWAY USA (sear/safety lever is part of kit)
These were all Sig Sauer manufactured parts, came in blue Sig bags. If you don't go with the SRT,
THIS is probably your cheapest option. Note, I don't think they are Sig parts, but instead 3rd party replacements.
This post was edited on 7/28/23 at 11:53 pm
Posted on 7/29/23 at 4:32 pm to Scoob
Should have just lightened it up, made the break better, and reduced the reset…DAK can save your life.
Posted on 7/29/23 at 8:29 pm to Gaston
quote:I'm just not a big fan of the DAK, or DAO pistols. It's really not significantly lighter than normal DA, and not much shorter. And the reset- it's shorter, but actually heavier to run a DAK on the reset.
Should have just lightened it up, made the break better, and reduced the reset…DAK can save your life.
As for the SRT kit-
. Reset is comparable to a S&W 5906 now. Not as short as a 39-2... the 39-2 you basically pulse your grip.
It runs very smoothly.
Posted on 7/29/23 at 8:42 pm to Gaston
quote:
DAK can save your life.
Why?
Posted on 7/31/23 at 2:55 pm to bbvdd
final product- and ok, it wasn't an E2 afterall. Just a regular Sig grip.
And yep, the gun has more dings than I perceived. You don't tend to notice them, other than the ding at the beavertail.
It's a sweet shooter.
And yep, the gun has more dings than I perceived. You don't tend to notice them, other than the ding at the beavertail.
It's a sweet shooter.
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