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re: Need some reloading help with weird velocities

Posted on 7/30/20 at 11:27 pm to
Posted by Duckhammer_77
TD Platinum member
Member since Nov 2016
2687 posts
Posted on 7/30/20 at 11:27 pm to
TOTH - I'm happy with the two loads I've got that show real promise. At the end of the day, it's a hunting gun and I'm moving on with seating depth - but using all brass that's once-fired & chamber-formed.

Thank you all for the insights and help. This is what the OB is for.
This post was edited on 7/30/20 at 11:28 pm
Posted by TigerOnThe Hill
Springhill, LA
Member since Sep 2008
6812 posts
Posted on 7/31/20 at 1:29 pm to
DH, You're more than welcome. I find handloading to be generally pleasant and satisfying, but sometimes it can also be frustrating until one gets a problem worked out. Case in point: I've been working up a load for a recently acquired Nosler Custom Handgun in 22 Nosler. While impatiently "waiting" for a 22 Nosler seater die from Forster, I've been using the seating die for my 22 BR. I've had some very satisfying groups, but also had some really disappointing groups, as well. I'm hoping USPS will finally deliver the 22 Nosler seating die soon. According to the local post office, "It's been in Shreveport for 3 days. The Shreveport post office's been so busy they've not sent any packages to me in 3 days."
Posted by bbvdd
Memphis, TN
Member since Jun 2009
25002 posts
Posted on 7/31/20 at 1:46 pm to
I’ve been messing around with my 6.5 grendel and have not been too happy with the groupings. 2” at 100” at best.

I just went through and weight the brass after sorting by manufacturers. The hornady brass that I have with it varied between 110 grains and 114.
Pretty big on such a small case. Hoping sorting by weight and manufacturing will help.

TOTH, let us know how you like the 22Nos.
This post was edited on 7/31/20 at 1:47 pm
Posted by saintsfan1977
West Monroe, from Cajun country
Member since Jun 2010
7710 posts
Posted on 7/31/20 at 2:42 pm to
quote:

2” at 100” at best.

I just went through and weight the brass after sorting by manufacturers. The hornady brass that I have with it varied between 110 grains and 114.
Pretty big on such a small case. Hoping sorting by weight and manufacturing will help.


The most consistent brass will be the expensive ones. Norma, Lapua, Nosler.

Was 2in groups with reloading? Could just be a bad barrel? Or have you gotten better than 2in with factory ammo. I wouldn't weight sort brass as the first thing to try to get under 2in. I would change the bullet or the powder.
Posted by bbvdd
Memphis, TN
Member since Jun 2009
25002 posts
Posted on 7/31/20 at 3:03 pm to
quote:

Was 2in groups with reloading? Could just be a bad barrel? Or have you gotten better than 2in with factory ammo. I wouldn't weight sort brass as the first thing to try to get under 2in. I would change the bullet or the powder.


Regardless basically. 2” would be fine for deer hunting but I want it to shoot better. My 6.5 cm bolt and AR-10 are both sub 1/2” 100 yd guns.
Posted by saintsfan1977
West Monroe, from Cajun country
Member since Jun 2010
7710 posts
Posted on 7/31/20 at 3:38 pm to
quote:

Regardless basically. 2” would be fine for deer hunting but I want it to shoot better. My 6.5 cm bolt and AR-10 are both sub 1/2” 100 yd guns.


Yea it's fine for hunting but like I said I would weight sort brass last. Your barrel might not like that bullet or the bullet doesn't like the powder? Weight sorting brass can only be seen at long distance ie 800-1000yds.
Posted by TigerOnThe Hill
Springhill, LA
Member since Sep 2008
6812 posts
Posted on 7/31/20 at 7:03 pm to
quote:

The most consistent brass will be the expensive ones. Norma, Lapua, Nosler.

I really like Lapua and some of it is not really that expensive, especially given it's history of longevity. Instead of weighing brass, I measure case neck concentricity. For deer hunting brass, I cull any cases that vary >0.003". W/ Rem and Winchester, I end up culling approx #20/100. Hornady and Nosler cull about #10/100. For varmint/prairie dog hunting, I cull brass that's >0.002". For Lapua, only about #4/100 are >0.002". I only have Nosler brass for my 260 Remington and the new 22 Nosler (headstamp is Midway "Dogtown", but it's supposedly made by Nosler). While the 260 Rem brass was slightly better than Rem and Win, the Dowgown brass was really good, as none were >0.002". Recently I bought some Starline brass for the 260 and it's really good. I only culled #1/50. There's a new brass maker I recommend for you to consider, Peterson. I bought #100 in 6 BR to convert to 22 BR. Only one was culled, a little better than Lapua.

My opinion: Lapua and Peterson are the best, Norma is more expensive (but supposed to be good), Nosler is good (and based on the 22 N, maybe getting better, but it's generally overpriced) and Starline quality looks very promising.
Posted by TigerOnThe Hill
Springhill, LA
Member since Sep 2008
6812 posts
Posted on 7/31/20 at 7:06 pm to
quote:

I just went through and weight the brass after sorting by manufacturers.

I never mix headstamps of brass as different brands of brass will usually have different case capacity and different case head thickness. For example, my Peterson 22 BR brass has a case capacity that's 1 grain less than Remington.
Posted by bbvdd
Memphis, TN
Member since Jun 2009
25002 posts
Posted on 7/31/20 at 8:02 pm to
Another to think of that is supposedly on the same level as Lapua and Peterson is Atlas (stamped ADG)

I’ve not tried any but I probably will at some point soon.

Lapua is great. I have 200 pieces of it for my bolt action 6.5cm. I’ve been neck turning it to get the necks on them uniform. Sorting them by weight, I culled 5 pieces out of 200.
Posted by TigerOnThe Hill
Springhill, LA
Member since Sep 2008
6812 posts
Posted on 8/1/20 at 11:31 am to
quote:

Atlas (stamped ADG)

Yeah, I've heard they make quality brass, they just don't make any in the calibers I use.
Posted by civiltiger07
Baton Rouge
Member since Dec 2011
14031 posts
Posted on 8/23/20 at 8:09 pm to
quote:

I just ordered a recoil trigger for mine since I pretty much only shoot mine suppressed.


Did you get to test the recoil trigger out yet? Used mine for the first tome today. I have to say it was way better than using the muzzle blast to trigger. I shot 3 different rifles today and I was able to leave the LabRadar in one spot. I didn’t have to move it around to find that spot where the muzzle blast triggers it with every rifle. Worth the $50.
Posted by bbvdd
Memphis, TN
Member since Jun 2009
25002 posts
Posted on 8/23/20 at 8:25 pm to
I’ve able to use it two or three times.

I love it. So worth it.
BTW, shot a F-Class match on Sat. My first to try 600yds with my gun.

558 out of 600. Some was me but I was getting some wildly erratic speeds which I think was a larger part of it. My s/d was like 30. Because of that I was pretty pleased with my shooting. Will work up a new load before the next match and get those s/d in the single digits and maybe get that score up to around 590.
Posted by civiltiger07
Baton Rouge
Member since Dec 2011
14031 posts
Posted on 8/23/20 at 10:10 pm to
quote:

558 out of 600


A bunch of 9’s and 10’s? I call that good shooting IMO
Posted by bbvdd
Memphis, TN
Member since Jun 2009
25002 posts
Posted on 8/24/20 at 9:15 am to
quote:

A bunch of 9’s and 10’s? I call that good shooting IMO


most all of them, Yes. There were 8 x-rings. I think I had one or two 8 rings.

I looked it up and my s/ds were 26.9 and ES was 87.
I was using Staball 6.5, winchesters new powder. There was an older man out there that knew more about powder than I will ever learn and he was telling me that ball powder needs a large primer (was using Lapua SRP). And Lapua also has smaller flash hole.

I've order 8 pounds of H4350 and will try again.
Posted by civiltiger07
Baton Rouge
Member since Dec 2011
14031 posts
Posted on 8/24/20 at 9:32 am to
quote:

I was using Staball 6.5


I have been using this powder as well, but I’m using Starline brass with large rifle primers. My SD’s yesterday were in the 10-12 range.
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