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Posted on 7/21/25 at 11:55 am to tigertail34
It's probably a fuel issue BUT if it sat up over winter and it got colder than normal sometime during the winter and it had water in you may have a cracked head or water jacket.
Get a small can of gas, a bulb type syphoning hose and a fitting that works with the motor. Eliminate any of the fuel system not under that cowling. On the water crank it and see if it runs at anything other than idle...if it continues to bog down and quite when you throttle up add sea foam to the gas in the new can and run it through everything under the cowling. It is liable to look like it has slung a rod as it burns the crud out of the system but it will, most likely, eventually do so. you may have to run a couple of gallons of about half and half gas and seafoam through it before it starts to clear up. When it does see if it runs on gas alone and see if it will run at speed. If it does not there is a good chance you have a cooling system opening somewhere that is letting water into a cylinder or cylinders.
Get a small can of gas, a bulb type syphoning hose and a fitting that works with the motor. Eliminate any of the fuel system not under that cowling. On the water crank it and see if it runs at anything other than idle...if it continues to bog down and quite when you throttle up add sea foam to the gas in the new can and run it through everything under the cowling. It is liable to look like it has slung a rod as it burns the crud out of the system but it will, most likely, eventually do so. you may have to run a couple of gallons of about half and half gas and seafoam through it before it starts to clear up. When it does see if it runs on gas alone and see if it will run at speed. If it does not there is a good chance you have a cooling system opening somewhere that is letting water into a cylinder or cylinders.
Posted on 7/21/25 at 11:57 am to headedwest21
quote:
Exhaust back pressure. When on ears, exhaust is free flowing so engine has no resistance. What are your rpms on ears? Did you do basic compression check?
This. Depending on engine size and container of water its in they can do this in a drum also....the engine will displace enough water at the exhaust to mimic free flowing exhaust.
Posted on 7/21/25 at 12:05 pm to ultralite
quote:
Inspect all of your spark plugs when you pull them. If some any are rusted it’s likely you’ve got a water jacket corroded through into the cylinder wall.
This is soung advice. Have had several outboards over the years crack a head or head gasket or a cylinder wall and they will idle fine but when you throttle them up they will "bog" down or shut off. I have fixed several with JB Weld...it doesn't take but a hair thick crack to cause the bogging down...in my exprience its almost always between cylinders at the top....polish the area out, fill it with JB Weld, when it sets up work it flush with emery cloth and use a lot of Permatex when replacing the gasket and head. I have done this with automobile engines also...it will work for a LONG time. I did a Mercury 35 remote on a bass tracker bass boat in 1986 and it still runs like it did when new. Almost.
Posted on 7/21/25 at 1:47 pm to tigertail34
I had the same issue on a old 8hp 2 stroke. It would run fine in a bucket but would stall and die immediately under load. Ended up being a bad "power pack" that sent voltage to the spark plugs. It was shorting out and sparking inside the cowling where you couldn't see it but could hear it if you listened close enough.
Posted on 7/21/25 at 3:44 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
going to put an external tank together today or tomorrow and see what the results are.
Everyone's inputs are greatly appreciated!
Everyone's inputs are greatly appreciated!
Posted on 7/21/25 at 7:00 pm to tigertail34
update:
external fuel tank with new fuel and it starts up similar to previously.
when it came on had an alarm for low oil.
i have an engine mounted oil tank with an override switch. The oil was right at/below low line, but the override switch does not work to fill it. I added some oil manually and got the warnings/alarm to stop.
I know the mechanic noticed a part on a small linkage to the oil injection pump was broken and he repaired that. No clue how long that has been broken.
So now i'm leaning to some issue with the oil system???
I can keep engine idling as long as i keep pushing key/choke in
external fuel tank with new fuel and it starts up similar to previously.
when it came on had an alarm for low oil.
i have an engine mounted oil tank with an override switch. The oil was right at/below low line, but the override switch does not work to fill it. I added some oil manually and got the warnings/alarm to stop.
I know the mechanic noticed a part on a small linkage to the oil injection pump was broken and he repaired that. No clue how long that has been broken.
So now i'm leaning to some issue with the oil system???
I can keep engine idling as long as i keep pushing key/choke in
This post was edited on 7/21/25 at 7:23 pm
Posted on 7/21/25 at 7:32 pm to tigertail34
If that linkage was broken it would’ve been mixing the minimum amount of oil into your fuel, which will definitely ruin the cylinder walls in short order.
Pull the spark plug and do a compression test.
It’s a very simple test that is invaluable if you ever buy a used outboard
Pull the spark plug and do a compression test.
It’s a very simple test that is invaluable if you ever buy a used outboard
Posted on 7/21/25 at 8:37 pm to tigertail34
quote:
can keep engine idling as long as i keep pushing key/choke in
It has a fuel problem. Idle jet is probably plugged.
Posted on 7/22/25 at 12:52 am to tigertail34
I have had this exact issue multiple times on two strokes.
Once is was the brand new fuel pump was defective,
Once it was a cracked gasket,
Once is was a micro crack on the fuel line connector that wasn’t leaking fuel but when it got hot sucked air.
Once it was the old oil alarm, it was an older engine so I had it disconnected and mixed my own oil and gas but the mechanic didn’t completely disconnect it so after running for 15 -20 minutes it would set of b the alarm, which I didn’t hear because it was not connected but it would kill the engine or not let it restart until it cooled down. Took me forever to figure that one out.
Once is was the brand new fuel pump was defective,
Once it was a cracked gasket,
Once is was a micro crack on the fuel line connector that wasn’t leaking fuel but when it got hot sucked air.
Once it was the old oil alarm, it was an older engine so I had it disconnected and mixed my own oil and gas but the mechanic didn’t completely disconnect it so after running for 15 -20 minutes it would set of b the alarm, which I didn’t hear because it was not connected but it would kill the engine or not let it restart until it cooled down. Took me forever to figure that one out.
Posted on 7/22/25 at 1:21 am to tigertail34
quote:
I can keep engine idling as long as i keep pushing key/choke in
Your mechanic that rebuilt the carbs...but couldn't get it to idle correctly...didn't rebuild the carbs right. Pumping old gas through old, nasty filters into newly cleaned carbs can also funk them up quick.
Either the carbs are setup wrong or still have junk in them...those little orifices don't take much to screw up.
Posted on 7/22/25 at 8:00 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Pls delete, didn’t see update to downshift’s spot in post.
This post was edited on 7/22/25 at 8:02 am
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