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ultralite
| Favorite team: | LSU |
| Location: | |
| Biography: | |
| Interests: | |
| Occupation: | |
| Number of Posts: | 117 |
| Registered on: | 2/15/2013 |
| Online Status: | Not Online |
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re: Hunting SxS that doesn’t feel like a golf cart
Posted by ultralite on 11/13/25 at 7:39 am to Royalfishing
Have you driven the Honda Pioneers? The 500 (or 520 now) is as close to a 4 wheeler as it gets, and is very different than a belt driven sxs.
Are you selling to someone in state or out of state?
From your current situation, assuming you are selling to someone in Louisiana, to make the transaction, you need:
Notarized bill of sale listing the boat and trailer, separately
Notarized/signed boat title
Notarized/signed trailer title
Hand them your WLF Registration card and trailer registration if you have it.
From there you are done.
The buyer will take all of that, fill out a boat registration transfer form and submit to WLF, then also get a new registration for the trailer at the DMV.
Outboard titles in Louisiana are only continued if they were optionally titled or if they came from another state and had a title as part of the sale when coming in state.
From your current situation, assuming you are selling to someone in Louisiana, to make the transaction, you need:
Notarized bill of sale listing the boat and trailer, separately
Notarized/signed boat title
Notarized/signed trailer title
Hand them your WLF Registration card and trailer registration if you have it.
From there you are done.
The buyer will take all of that, fill out a boat registration transfer form and submit to WLF, then also get a new registration for the trailer at the DMV.
Outboard titles in Louisiana are only continued if they were optionally titled or if they came from another state and had a title as part of the sale when coming in state.
re: Need outboard troubleshooting help
Posted by ultralite on 7/21/25 at 7:32 pm to tigertail34
If that linkage was broken it would’ve been mixing the minimum amount of oil into your fuel, which will definitely ruin the cylinder walls in short order.
Pull the spark plug and do a compression test.
It’s a very simple test that is invaluable if you ever buy a used outboard
Pull the spark plug and do a compression test.
It’s a very simple test that is invaluable if you ever buy a used outboard
re: Need outboard troubleshooting help
Posted by ultralite on 7/20/25 at 10:17 pm to tigertail34
Compression check doesn’t hurt, there’s plenty of YouTube videos of how to do that. Most importantly, 1. Don’t cross thread the gauge into the spark plug hole, 2. Pull the kill cord to ensure the engine doesn’t actually start when you’re turning it over.
Inspect all of your spark plugs when you pull them. If some any are rusted it’s likely you’ve got a water jacket corroded through into the cylinder wall. Not sure about the 115s in particular but early 2000s Yamahas had some questionable alloy/castings. Symptoms will be exactly the same.
As others said, really sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Try running on an external tank with new bulb and fuel hose to start.
That will separate out whether you have an engine problem or a fuel tank/line/external filter problem.
Inspect all of your spark plugs when you pull them. If some any are rusted it’s likely you’ve got a water jacket corroded through into the cylinder wall. Not sure about the 115s in particular but early 2000s Yamahas had some questionable alloy/castings. Symptoms will be exactly the same.
As others said, really sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Try running on an external tank with new bulb and fuel hose to start.
That will separate out whether you have an engine problem or a fuel tank/line/external filter problem.
Pontoon tubes are very thin, usually 1/8” or less, and very susceptible to corrosion, especially since it doesn’t seem like many even have anodes on them.
As others mentioned, primer and a few coats of barrier paint (2 part epoxy paint), can go a long ways. And is necessary to apply any sort of anti fouling paint.
If there is any anti fouling paint, make damn sure there is no copper in it, or that the boat has a least 3 barrier coats and is not scuffed/chipped anywhere, as the copper will corrode any exposed bare aluminum while in the water.
For the price of a new pontoon boat nowadays, I would strongly consider having someone weld up a boat/pontoon that would serve the same purpose, and it’ll last forever.
As others mentioned, primer and a few coats of barrier paint (2 part epoxy paint), can go a long ways. And is necessary to apply any sort of anti fouling paint.
If there is any anti fouling paint, make damn sure there is no copper in it, or that the boat has a least 3 barrier coats and is not scuffed/chipped anywhere, as the copper will corrode any exposed bare aluminum while in the water.
For the price of a new pontoon boat nowadays, I would strongly consider having someone weld up a boat/pontoon that would serve the same purpose, and it’ll last forever.
Absolutely, another good practice is to get a zip-up style life jacket and keep it hooked up to the kill cord. Quick and easy to throw it on, zip up and go. That way you aren’t messing with the clip all day.
Once it’s a habit you may even feel awkward without it on.
I’ve also noticed that game wardens/sheriff have a much better first impression if you’ve already got a life jacket on and cord attached.
Anyone who has been thrown out of the boat will agree, there’s nothing you could have done to hang on, and you’re processing it as you are going underwater.
Once it’s a habit you may even feel awkward without it on.
I’ve also noticed that game wardens/sheriff have a much better first impression if you’ve already got a life jacket on and cord attached.
Anyone who has been thrown out of the boat will agree, there’s nothing you could have done to hang on, and you’re processing it as you are going underwater.
Maybe it was just time for me, but I also suspect the freeze this winter did a number on some of my fuel hose ends, especially if coming into a barb at a bend.
When replacing lines and filters/filter o-rings, make sure there’s no air getting sucked in the fuel line.
When replacing lines and filters/filter o-rings, make sure there’s no air getting sucked in the fuel line.
Mercury has the shift and throttle cables running into the tiller handle. Sounds like the start-in-gear protection detent is not doing its job and the cables are seized at WOT.
I would say check those linkages first.
ETA: what year? 2 stroke? 4 stroke? Fuel injected?
I would say check those linkages first.
ETA: what year? 2 stroke? 4 stroke? Fuel injected?
Get a boaters safety card, even if you’re “grandfathered in” so you know the basic rules of the road.
Figure out all the logistics of a typical day and figure out a routine before bringing along all kinds of family/friends.
Do the first run by yourself or with a friend that knows this kind of thing. You’ll quickly note things you’ll need to be sure of or do differently next time.
Remember, you own the boats so your friends/family will assume you’re an expert right away.
If you have a friend that IS very knowledgeable about these things, bring them along for the first outing as a trial run.
Learn your limitations. Fuel range, reading the weather, and local knowledge.
Figure out all the logistics of a typical day and figure out a routine before bringing along all kinds of family/friends.
Do the first run by yourself or with a friend that knows this kind of thing. You’ll quickly note things you’ll need to be sure of or do differently next time.
Remember, you own the boats so your friends/family will assume you’re an expert right away.
If you have a friend that IS very knowledgeable about these things, bring them along for the first outing as a trial run.
Learn your limitations. Fuel range, reading the weather, and local knowledge.
You have to add shavings. It mimics the shavings leftover from woodpeckers chipping their way into a tree.
The easiest is to get cedar chips from just about any pet section of Walmart and it’ll work fine. Dump and replace each year, as old sites will have old egg shell and crap in there.
Best way to check the boxes is to put an iPhone on “video” in landscape mode, then hit the arrow and put flash to “on”. You’ll then have a way to inspect the box without opening it up. Saves a bunch of time and potential run-ins with snakes, wasps, squirrels, and hen wood ducks.
The easiest is to get cedar chips from just about any pet section of Walmart and it’ll work fine. Dump and replace each year, as old sites will have old egg shell and crap in there.
Best way to check the boxes is to put an iPhone on “video” in landscape mode, then hit the arrow and put flash to “on”. You’ll then have a way to inspect the box without opening it up. Saves a bunch of time and potential run-ins with snakes, wasps, squirrels, and hen wood ducks.
re: Concordia deer pen CWD confirmed
Posted by ultralite on 1/5/25 at 2:40 pm to Turnblad85
Another article
Looks like The different departments are slow to communicate…
These deer farms need to be shut down. At this point you cannot claim ignorance of CWD. I am surprised the lawyers have not gotten involved. This kind of thing will destroy areas of natural resources, property values, and hunting-driven revenues (gun/outdoor stores, game processors, etc).
Can someone please list the public benefits of a deer farm that outweighs the risk of destroying a public resource?
Looks like The different departments are slow to communicate…
These deer farms need to be shut down. At this point you cannot claim ignorance of CWD. I am surprised the lawyers have not gotten involved. This kind of thing will destroy areas of natural resources, property values, and hunting-driven revenues (gun/outdoor stores, game processors, etc).
Can someone please list the public benefits of a deer farm that outweighs the risk of destroying a public resource?
re: Wildlife and Fisheries Department
Posted by ultralite on 12/23/23 at 4:17 pm to Taxman2010
Open up flounder to recreational fishermen year-round. Keep it closed during fall migration for commercial fishermen.
Or at least set a reduced recreational limit during October-November.
Or at least set a reduced recreational limit during October-November.
Have you tried a conibear 120 in the end of a pipe? The good thing with those is you can still bait with a fish but you can submerge the whole thing if you know where he is coming from a pond/ditch.
According to his post, total costs were around $170k.
$170k/1000 days = $170/night
That’s with 67k miles, so presumably 150-180 days of 8-hour drives.
Over twelve years, that is a lot. Roughly 2.75 of those 12 years living out of the camper (averaged).
I would think many are lucky to get 30 days/year out of an RV (besides a hunting camp), so, best case with cash purchase of $95k and selling it for the full $30k, and $15k in gasoline, that’s $222/night.
Now do the current price of $195k and the above, assuming you can sell it for $60k in 12 years. That’s $415/night!
$170k/1000 days = $170/night
That’s with 67k miles, so presumably 150-180 days of 8-hour drives.
Over twelve years, that is a lot. Roughly 2.75 of those 12 years living out of the camper (averaged).
I would think many are lucky to get 30 days/year out of an RV (besides a hunting camp), so, best case with cash purchase of $95k and selling it for the full $30k, and $15k in gasoline, that’s $222/night.
Now do the current price of $195k and the above, assuming you can sell it for $60k in 12 years. That’s $415/night!
Looks like there are some oil/gas wells in the area as well.
(30.6825040, -93.4356911) seems like the radar gains significant intensity around here.
Here’s the google pin: LINK
(30.6825040, -93.4356911) seems like the radar gains significant intensity around here.
Here’s the google pin: LINK
re: Help - Boat Corrosion at Drain Plug
Posted by ultralite on 7/21/23 at 4:36 am to CajunSportsman
Yes, looks like galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals.
Remove, clean up, and have someone weld in an NPT collar, use an aluminum plug.
If that will take too long, remove and put a stainless steel version of the same type of plug.
Do you have bottom paint on this boat?
Remove, clean up, and have someone weld in an NPT collar, use an aluminum plug.
If that will take too long, remove and put a stainless steel version of the same type of plug.
Do you have bottom paint on this boat?
Underway is technically defined as “not anchored, made fast to the shore, or aground.”
Even if you’re drifting, you’re under way.
I wouldn’t be surprised if a warden wrote a ticket while you’re anchored out though.
Even if you’re drifting, you’re under way.
I wouldn’t be surprised if a warden wrote a ticket while you’re anchored out though.
re: Tips for first-time boat buyer
Posted by ultralite on 6/5/23 at 10:13 pm to hassan whiteside
Usually good deals come in one of two ways: 1. You know the person and they have a great boat that they’re willing to give you or sell to you for cheap. 2. You have a lot of experience with boats and can quickly inspect every inch of the boat and make a decision that day.
Good deals move fast, especially on FB marketplace.
Simple tiller handle flat boats have less to inspect, less to break, and less to maintain.
If you have no experience and nobody to look at the boat with you, your best bet is to go as simple as possible. Aluminum, welded, no wood, no carpet, no fiberglass, minimal electronics if any. If there’s a subfloor, try to inspect the foam for water logged foam.
If on a trailer, inspect for corrosion where the boat makes contact with the trailer bunks. Look for cracks in every weld/corner. Make sure the trailer is galvanized.
On the outboard, look for corrosion, take off the cowling and look for signs of work on the engine. Loose wiring, stripped off bolts, corrosion around the engine block, dry rotted hoses.
Insist on running the engine. If you can put it in the water, even better. Sometimes an engine may run fine on earmuffs and not push the boat under load.
Good deals move fast, especially on FB marketplace.
Simple tiller handle flat boats have less to inspect, less to break, and less to maintain.
If you have no experience and nobody to look at the boat with you, your best bet is to go as simple as possible. Aluminum, welded, no wood, no carpet, no fiberglass, minimal electronics if any. If there’s a subfloor, try to inspect the foam for water logged foam.
If on a trailer, inspect for corrosion where the boat makes contact with the trailer bunks. Look for cracks in every weld/corner. Make sure the trailer is galvanized.
On the outboard, look for corrosion, take off the cowling and look for signs of work on the engine. Loose wiring, stripped off bolts, corrosion around the engine block, dry rotted hoses.
Insist on running the engine. If you can put it in the water, even better. Sometimes an engine may run fine on earmuffs and not push the boat under load.
Does anyone have experience testing an old R22 unit with R407c ?
It’s a total scam what the government is doing regarding Freon regulations/bans and the constantly moving target…
It’s a total scam what the government is doing regarding Freon regulations/bans and the constantly moving target…
re: Marlin to Reintroduce Two Lever Action Rifles: The 1894 & 336
Posted by ultralite on 3/29/23 at 7:39 am to Bama and Beer
It also has a push button safety in front of the hammer :casty:
So much for a true re-release.
So much for a true re-release.
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