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Started By
Message
Hooking up a perko switch in my boat...need advice
Posted on 6/26/14 at 7:58 pm
Posted on 6/26/14 at 7:58 pm
I have a pontoon boat that currently has 1 battery in it. I want to put another battery in it and hook it up to where 1 battery is just for the ignition and motor and the other controls all of the electronics.
Is a perko switch the way to go with this set up?
How do I go about splitting the wires? Right now there is only the 1 set of wire going back to the battery.
Thanks
Is a perko switch the way to go with this set up?
How do I go about splitting the wires? Right now there is only the 1 set of wire going back to the battery.
Thanks
5
Posted on 6/26/14 at 8:11 pm to NatalbanyTigerFan
There should be two sets of wires. One set of large wires that go directly to the engine. And another small set that go to the console. This set usually has an inline fuse near the battery. Is this not the case?
Posted on 6/26/14 at 8:29 pm to NatalbanyTigerFan
This is how my boat is wired.
Posted on 6/26/14 at 8:33 pm to NatalbanyTigerFan
Might be a little trial and error involved here.You shouldn't NEED a switch IMO, unless you want a master acc on the console.
Posted on 6/26/14 at 8:34 pm to NatalbanyTigerFan
You can do that without a Perko switch. Although I highly recommend having a Perko switch anyway.
The main purpose of a Perko is to be able disconnect the battery from the motor and electronics when not in use. This helps your battery last longer and is very useful in the event a switch gets bumped on accidentally and unknowningly as it won't drain your battery.
Also used to alternate between multiple batteries that are connected to your motor.
The main purpose of a Perko is to be able disconnect the battery from the motor and electronics when not in use. This helps your battery last longer and is very useful in the event a switch gets bumped on accidentally and unknowningly as it won't drain your battery.
Also used to alternate between multiple batteries that are connected to your motor.
Posted on 6/26/14 at 8:42 pm to sherrifftaylor
quote:
There should be two sets of wires. One set of large wires that go directly to the engine. And another small set that go to the console. This set usually has an inline fuse near the battery. Is this not the case?
Yes this it how it looks.
Posted on 6/26/14 at 9:16 pm to NatalbanyTigerFan
Hogdaddy's diagram is correct, but keep in mind that it won't completely isolate the engine from the boat electronics. They will both run off of either batt. 1, or batt. 2, or both batteries.( that switch usually has an "all" position.)
Posted on 6/26/14 at 11:50 pm to sherrifftaylor
Do not really need a Perko Switch fort taht. Perko switch is really to have a backup battery set up where u can keep micro drains to a mimimum by turning all batteries off when you get in.
But it will work, u have Batter 1 Battery 2 all and off, not hard to set up u would run all to run everything with 1 being motor and 2 electronics if I am remembering correctly
But it will work, u have Batter 1 Battery 2 all and off, not hard to set up u would run all to run everything with 1 being motor and 2 electronics if I am remembering correctly
Posted on 6/27/14 at 4:53 am to TutHillTiger
Only problem with that wire diagram is that the bilge pump should always be hot. It should always over ride any cut off switch and should be hook direct to power with a fuse in line if you have a auto bilge pump.
A perko battery switch has battery 1, battery 2, both battery 1&2 and off.
Battery 1 should just feed the motor.
Battery 2 should just fed house power.
Battery 1 & 2 ties everything together.
Off cuts all power to everything but a auto bilge pump that should be hook direct to the hot side incoming of battery 1&2.
OP. To save you time in the long run, use only tin wire and connections. You can order that off ebay a lot cheaper then buying it at a boat shop.
A perko battery switch has battery 1, battery 2, both battery 1&2 and off.
Battery 1 should just feed the motor.
Battery 2 should just fed house power.
Battery 1 & 2 ties everything together.
Off cuts all power to everything but a auto bilge pump that should be hook direct to the hot side incoming of battery 1&2.
OP. To save you time in the long run, use only tin wire and connections. You can order that off ebay a lot cheaper then buying it at a boat shop.
Posted on 6/27/14 at 6:46 am to NatalbanyTigerFan
Ideally you need a switch and an acr, that way they all charge together as well.
Blue sea makes a setup as well.
add a battery kit
An ACR automatically charges both batteries or the one with the least charge. Also lets your select individual banks or combine them when needed
Blue sea makes a setup as well.
add a battery kit
An ACR automatically charges both batteries or the one with the least charge. Also lets your select individual banks or combine them when needed
This post was edited on 6/27/14 at 7:17 am
Posted on 6/27/14 at 7:06 am to fishfighter
No bilge pump in my boat. The only electronics I have are the running lights and stereo.
Posted on 6/27/14 at 8:14 am to fishfighter
Is not battery 1 always hot to the bilge in that diagram?
Posted on 6/27/14 at 8:42 am to ccdrlsu
The float switch is tied to the Positive of battery 1. There is also a switch on the console in parallel(Inline)with the float switch which is powered by the fuse panel. So you can turn on/off the bilge pump. So when you turn the Perko switch to off the bilge will come on when the float is lifted.
Posted on 6/27/14 at 10:24 am to hogdaddy
Just saw that the bilge pump is correct. 
Guess my eyes were not open all the way this morning.
Guess my eyes were not open all the way this morning.Posted on 6/27/14 at 10:34 am to fishfighter
No Problems Mon.
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