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Message
Fishfinder set-up for the kayak - Let's see yours: UPDATE IN OP w/ PICS
Posted on 10/15/15 at 11:59 am
Posted on 10/15/15 at 11:59 am
I'll be hooking up my fishfinder this weekend and I'm interested to see how the OB Kayak brethren have theirs set-up.
For mine, I want it to be easily and completely removable as I often fish shallow, narrow rivers where having excess gear sticking off the kayak can be dangerous. As such, my current design plan hinges on it being removable with some wingnuts.
I'll be mounting all of this to one of the mounting plates on my Predator MX:
I'll be mounting a Raymarine Dragonfly 4 Pro
on a 8.5x11" cutting board that I'll cut down to 5"x11". I'll be using a Outdoor Products Small Watertight Box
to hold my Talentcell Rechargeable 6000mAh Li-Ion Battery Pack along with extra wiring.
which will also be mounted on the cutting board along with my RAM Ball Mount - Diamond Base which will hold the RAM Transducer Arm Mount - Open Socket
The entire cutting board will be attached to one of the mounting plates via wing-nuts so I can take it off and on without much trouble.
Thoughts and advice welcome.
ETA UPDATE:
Soooo, I finally got around to building my unit. Here is all my stuff laid out:
Once I got down to building it, I realized that the battery box I ordered was too small, so..... back to the drawing board. I ended up deciding to go with a Pelican 1060 Micro Case ($30) since my 6000mah battery was pretty flat.
I ended up mounting everything to the Pelican case and then mounting the pelican case to the cut-up cutting board which I then attached to the Predator using Scotty gear tracs and some toilet flange bolts (thanks PolarPop for the heads up - they fit great).
I am very pleased with it. The entire unit is removable and theoretically transferable to any kayak with a gear trac system. When I'm hunting, in transit, or floating a shallow river, I simply don't take the unit with me. If I'm camping or leaving my kayak somewhere exposed to people or the elements, the whole thing comes off easily. I need to fill the hole the wires are going through with some sealant, but otherwise it's all good to go. And the Dragonfly display is beautiful. VERY clean and clear.
ETA2:
Here are some better pics of it actually on the kayak. I turned the transducer arm so it's more snug to the hull:
Also, I can move the whole unit further away by straddling the two tracks I have on the different accessory plates:
For mine, I want it to be easily and completely removable as I often fish shallow, narrow rivers where having excess gear sticking off the kayak can be dangerous. As such, my current design plan hinges on it being removable with some wingnuts.
I'll be mounting all of this to one of the mounting plates on my Predator MX:
I'll be mounting a Raymarine Dragonfly 4 Pro
on a 8.5x11" cutting board that I'll cut down to 5"x11". I'll be using a Outdoor Products Small Watertight Box
to hold my Talentcell Rechargeable 6000mAh Li-Ion Battery Pack along with extra wiring.
which will also be mounted on the cutting board along with my RAM Ball Mount - Diamond Base which will hold the RAM Transducer Arm Mount - Open Socket
The entire cutting board will be attached to one of the mounting plates via wing-nuts so I can take it off and on without much trouble.
Thoughts and advice welcome.
ETA UPDATE:
Soooo, I finally got around to building my unit. Here is all my stuff laid out:
Once I got down to building it, I realized that the battery box I ordered was too small, so..... back to the drawing board. I ended up deciding to go with a Pelican 1060 Micro Case ($30) since my 6000mah battery was pretty flat.
I ended up mounting everything to the Pelican case and then mounting the pelican case to the cut-up cutting board which I then attached to the Predator using Scotty gear tracs and some toilet flange bolts (thanks PolarPop for the heads up - they fit great).
I am very pleased with it. The entire unit is removable and theoretically transferable to any kayak with a gear trac system. When I'm hunting, in transit, or floating a shallow river, I simply don't take the unit with me. If I'm camping or leaving my kayak somewhere exposed to people or the elements, the whole thing comes off easily. I need to fill the hole the wires are going through with some sealant, but otherwise it's all good to go. And the Dragonfly display is beautiful. VERY clean and clear.
ETA2:
Here are some better pics of it actually on the kayak. I turned the transducer arm so it's more snug to the hull:
Also, I can move the whole unit further away by straddling the two tracks I have on the different accessory plates:
This post was edited on 4/18/17 at 10:15 pm
8
Posted on 10/15/15 at 12:10 pm to The Last Coco
Looks good! I don't have anything 
Posted on 10/15/15 at 12:27 pm to The Last Coco
I know you put your research in so what made you go with the Raymarine over a Lowrance unit?
Posted on 10/15/15 at 12:34 pm to The Last Coco
I ain't got nothing that fancy.
Fish finder...
Depth finder...
Fish finder...
Depth finder...
Posted on 10/15/15 at 12:36 pm to The Last Coco
What kind of run time do you expert to get from that battery?
Posted on 10/15/15 at 12:44 pm to Polar Pop
I was down to the Elite 4 HDI vs the Raymarine Dragonfly 4 Pro and a couple of things pushed me to Raymarine for the extra $50:
1. The CHIRP downimaging and CHIRP sonar on the Dragonfly run circles around the traditional down scan and 2D sonar on the Lowrance.
Where traditional fishfinders use 2 frequencies for sonar (83/200hz is the most common for shallow water applications) and 2 frequencies for down-imaging (455/800hz is the standard here), CHIRP uses a huge range of frequencies for both sonar and down imaging. This allows for higher definition and better target separation. Some types of fish or types of cover show up better at specific frequencies, and CHIRP capitalizes on it by running all manner of different frequencies. The end result from both a sonar and downimaging standpoint is more data and better read outs.
2. While both use a 4.3” screen, Raymarine’s looks like your phone while the Elite 4 looks like an old LCD screen.
3. WiFiSH from Raymarine is pretty stinking cool. The 4 & 5 PRO models broadcast their own Wifi signal which you can access via your phone or tablet and their WiFiSH app. It allows you to see everything that the unit sees. You can even broadcast the sonar on your depth finder and the downimaging on your phone for example. Also, if I’m fishing with someone who doesn’t have a depth finder, if they’re near me they can pick up the wifi broadcast from my depth finder and see what I’m seeing which could be really cool when targeting slabs over brush piles, etc…
4. These units are compatible with Navionics SonarChart Live, meaning that I can real-time stream my own sonar readings onto navionics charts on my phone or tablet with the Navionics app which are later uploaded to the Navionics cloud and saved. So new bodies of water or bodies of water with less detailed contours can be updated with community data and I can view it all later via the Navionics app on my phone or the Navionics WebApp on any computer as well as viewing it real-time while I take those readings.
All in all, it was just better, newer technology in a prettier package for not a whole lot more money. Raymarine has a long history in the offshore world and only recently began their foray into freshwater fishing. Have wide-spectrum CHIRP sonar and downimaging with built-in GPS on a $250 unit is a steal.
1. The CHIRP downimaging and CHIRP sonar on the Dragonfly run circles around the traditional down scan and 2D sonar on the Lowrance.
Where traditional fishfinders use 2 frequencies for sonar (83/200hz is the most common for shallow water applications) and 2 frequencies for down-imaging (455/800hz is the standard here), CHIRP uses a huge range of frequencies for both sonar and down imaging. This allows for higher definition and better target separation. Some types of fish or types of cover show up better at specific frequencies, and CHIRP capitalizes on it by running all manner of different frequencies. The end result from both a sonar and downimaging standpoint is more data and better read outs.
2. While both use a 4.3” screen, Raymarine’s looks like your phone while the Elite 4 looks like an old LCD screen.
3. WiFiSH from Raymarine is pretty stinking cool. The 4 & 5 PRO models broadcast their own Wifi signal which you can access via your phone or tablet and their WiFiSH app. It allows you to see everything that the unit sees. You can even broadcast the sonar on your depth finder and the downimaging on your phone for example. Also, if I’m fishing with someone who doesn’t have a depth finder, if they’re near me they can pick up the wifi broadcast from my depth finder and see what I’m seeing which could be really cool when targeting slabs over brush piles, etc…
4. These units are compatible with Navionics SonarChart Live, meaning that I can real-time stream my own sonar readings onto navionics charts on my phone or tablet with the Navionics app which are later uploaded to the Navionics cloud and saved. So new bodies of water or bodies of water with less detailed contours can be updated with community data and I can view it all later via the Navionics app on my phone or the Navionics WebApp on any computer as well as viewing it real-time while I take those readings.
All in all, it was just better, newer technology in a prettier package for not a whole lot more money. Raymarine has a long history in the offshore world and only recently began their foray into freshwater fishing. Have wide-spectrum CHIRP sonar and downimaging with built-in GPS on a $250 unit is a steal.
Posted on 10/15/15 at 12:50 pm to Barf
quote:
What kind of run time do you expert to get from that battery?
According to the user manual, PEAK power consumption is 4.3W.
At 12V, that means power consumption is 4.3/12 = .358 amps.
With a 6000mah (6ah) battery, I'll get 6/.358 = 16.76 hrs.
Since you're only supposed to discharge to about 80%, I'll call it about 13 hrs at peak power consumption.
Since I assume average power consumption will be around 2/3 of peak at the most (and likely far less than that based on some tests I've seen run on other depth finder's average vs published power consumption), I estimate about 20 hrs of run time.
This post was edited on 10/15/15 at 12:51 pm
Posted on 10/15/15 at 1:02 pm to The Last Coco
Very nicePosted on 10/15/15 at 1:40 pm to The Last Coco
Lowrance Elite 5 HDI with the RAM transducer mount and a Native battery bag.
Posted on 10/15/15 at 1:44 pm to Mark Makers
Damn baw, maybe if you didn't spend all that money on kayaks, you could get you some concrete.
Posted on 10/15/15 at 1:45 pm to DownSouthDave
Posted on 10/15/15 at 1:52 pm to DownSouthDave
Posted on 10/15/15 at 1:53 pm to The Last Coco
You must have made an A in physics
Posted on 10/15/15 at 2:05 pm to The Last Coco
Mine came with a "sonar pod" so it didn't involve me having to draw anything
Sponges on the bottom in the event that my silicone seal leaked. Piece of cutting board cut to size to lie on top of he sponges. Battery. Wires. Mine was an easy setup. There's a recessed port on my hull that makes it virtually impossible for the transducer to be damaged
This post was edited on 10/15/15 at 2:08 pm
Posted on 10/15/15 at 2:11 pm to Riseupfromtherubble
I like that setup.
I think your couch has seen better days.
I think your couch has seen better days.
Posted on 10/15/15 at 2:19 pm to DownSouthDave
If he stopped spending all that money on his kayak, he could afford a new couch. 
Posted on 10/15/15 at 2:40 pm to DownSouthDave
It has seen some great days if you know what I mean 
Then I got an Australian shepherd at 8 weeks old.
Then I got an Australian shepherd at 8 weeks old.
Posted on 10/15/15 at 2:40 pm to Mark Makers
quote:
he stopped spending all that money on his kayak, he could afford a new couch.
Priorities.
I'm doing it right
Posted on 10/15/15 at 4:22 pm to Riseupfromtherubble
Sick subtle selfie, bad!
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