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Broadhead Tuning. Did I mess up? *Update-Kinda

Posted on 11/1/17 at 10:27 pm
Posted by beHop
Landmass
Member since Jan 2012
14536 posts
Posted on 11/1/17 at 10:27 pm
So I just received my new bow from Hunters Friend, an Obsession Turmoil. It will take the place of my BT Ally that I've been running since 07. The OB turmoil came paper tuned with all the data from the tuning at the shop flinging Easton FMJ 6mm 320s at 29.5 Draw; 70 lbs; 307 fps; 95 lbs KE. It's an absolute dream to shoot. Smooth, quiet, etc.

I shot field tips and they were dead nuts on target, almost touching at 20 yards However, my Slick trick 100 gr. Mags were hitting high and left of the field points.

So what I did was took my field points off and adjusted the sight until I was getting consistent groups with my just my BHs thinking exact BH and FP POI was unattainable. And I moved my top pin to 30 yards. I bumped the entire sight over just ever so slightly to get the BHs stacking up. Good to go right?

Should I have done this differently? I'm shooting them well. Stacking arrows at 30 and 40 and very serviceable groups at 50 and 60 (not planning on taking a shot at 60-just like to practice back there). Should I go back and try to get the FPs to hit with the BHs or let it ride?

Eta: after reading what i originally wrote i could see how it could be misconstrued. I guess my real question should have been: Is BH and FP POI consistency even achievable? If so, how do you do it? I think I may have screwed up when I got my new bow.
This post was edited on 12/7/17 at 8:21 pm
Posted by sonoma8
Member since Oct 2006
7663 posts
Posted on 11/1/17 at 10:36 pm to
Is the weight of your field points any different than your BH? Id lean more to keeping it like it is if you are consistantly grouping the BH. You are not going to be shooting FP from the stand. Only other thing i can think of is your release point changed but you would be all over the place if that happend
Posted by A_bear
baton rouge
Member since Sep 2013
1960 posts
Posted on 11/1/17 at 10:37 pm to
First thing I'd do is switch to grim reapers
Secondly, I'd make sure the one you're shooting at live animals is the one that's dead on. Who gives a damn if the field points are a little off? All that matters is if the broadheads hit where you're aiming.
Posted by beHop
Landmass
Member since Jan 2012
14536 posts
Posted on 11/1/17 at 10:51 pm to
quote:

Who gives a damn if the field points are a little off?


I do. From what I've read, BH amd FP POI is attainable out of a well tuned bow and proper form. However, most folks get there by adjusting the rest, not the sight, which is what I did. It would be nice to be able to practice with FPs and not have to adjust anything going to a BH.

quote:

switch to grim reapers


Heard nothing but great things, I just prefer a fixed.

Posted by beHop
Landmass
Member since Jan 2012
14536 posts
Posted on 11/1/17 at 10:52 pm to
quote:

Is the weight of your field points any different than your BH?


I assume. They're both 100 grain listed. I haven't weighed either though.
Posted by A_bear
baton rouge
Member since Sep 2013
1960 posts
Posted on 11/1/17 at 10:56 pm to
Yeah idk man, my broadheads hit where my field points do. Mechanical broadheads typically fly like field points though. I used to shoot G5 montecs and the poi was different between them and field points. I switched them from arrow to arrow to get the blades to line up as closely as possible with the fletchings and that did help some. Montecs are 3 blades though.
Posted by beHop
Landmass
Member since Jan 2012
14536 posts
Posted on 11/1/17 at 11:03 pm to
quote:

Mechanical broadheads typically fly like field points though


That's why they're popular. More margin for error out of poorly tuned setups or bad form.

quote:

get the blades to line up as closely as possible with the fletchings


From what I've read, this is a myth and has no bearing on accuracy.
Posted by DTRooster
Belle River, La
Member since Dec 2013
7952 posts
Posted on 11/1/17 at 11:25 pm to
I've used 100gr Thunderheads for 25 years and I never had them and fieldpoints hit the same no matter what I tried, bow or arrow I shot. Set the pin for the THs and never worried about where the fieldpoints hit as long as they stacked or Id go shoot a 3D
Posted by A_bear
baton rouge
Member since Sep 2013
1960 posts
Posted on 11/1/17 at 11:32 pm to
Have you taken it to a good bow shop? They should be able to get you hooked up. Even though it came tuned, they might be able to tweak it a little and get you the results you're looking for.
Posted by White Bear
Yonnygo
Member since Jul 2014
13787 posts
Posted on 11/1/17 at 11:52 pm to
Possibly torquing the grip slightly? Regardless I'd recommend you shoot it on paper.
Posted by AUCE05
Member since Dec 2009
42557 posts
Posted on 11/2/17 at 12:08 am to
Let’s see a pic of this rig.
Posted by will1883
Vicksburg, MS
Member since Jan 2010
364 posts
Posted on 11/2/17 at 4:20 am to
Sounds like you just sighted in your broadheads, not necessarilly tuned it to your broadheads. If the broadheads and field points are hitting in the same spots, your bow is perfectly tuned. I look at paper tuning as more of a rough tuning of your bow and broadhead tuning as more of a fine tuning that is done after you’ve paper tuned. The good news is your broadheads are grouping and your field points are grouping. It should be simple to bring those groups together now. Just google “broadhead tuning chart” and follow directions based on where your groups are. This usually means micro adjustments (1/32”) to your rest (up/down and left/right). You barely have to move it to start seeing those broadheads move. Also, don’t worry about the sight until after you’ve got them all grouping together.

Most bow shops don’t have the time to spend doing this for you and they’ll probably steer someone towards mechanical broadheads.
Posted by beHop
Landmass
Member since Jan 2012
14536 posts
Posted on 11/2/17 at 6:09 am to
Sounds like I should paper tune it myself and just kind of start over which would piss me off if it wasnt so fun to shoot. I'll report back when I do.


Here's some pics:









This post was edited on 11/2/17 at 6:19 am
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81604 posts
Posted on 11/2/17 at 7:03 am to
quote:

Good to go right?
Yes
quote:

Stacking arrows at 30 and 40 and very serviceable groups at 50 and 60 (

Not so subtle brag.
quote:

Should I go back and try to get the FPs to hit with the BHs
No
Posted by beHop
Landmass
Member since Jan 2012
14536 posts
Posted on 11/2/17 at 7:16 am to
I was wondering when your condescending arse would show up.

quote:

Not so subtle brag


Yeah not really. That information is germane to my predicament because the further out I am the more a glaring flaw will show up, and you know this. I'm sure there are plenty of archers in here that can do the same.

Yet again, it blows my mind how you conduct yourself on this board. Replying and laughing at people's questions, one word responses, etc.

Sometimes people have genuine concerns and come to this place for advice. You know, maybe try learn something through productive conversations?

You're the kid in class that thinks his smartass shtick is hilarious while everyone else in the room wishes you'd just transfer already.


ETA: The thing is, I do think you know a lot and could be a great resource. You just need to work on your delivery sometimes because you come across as a huge a-hole majority of the time.
This post was edited on 11/2/17 at 7:24 am
Posted by The Last Coco
On the water
Member since Mar 2009
6840 posts
Posted on 11/2/17 at 7:19 am to
quote:

Sounds like you just sighted in your broadheads, not necessarilly tuned it to your broadheads. If the broadheads and field points are hitting in the same spots, your bow is perfectly tuned. I look at paper tuning as more of a rough tuning of your bow and broadhead tuning as more of a fine tuning that is done after you’ve paper tuned. The good news is your broadheads are grouping and your field points are grouping. It should be simple to bring those groups together now. Just google “broadhead tuning chart” and follow directions based on where your groups are. This usually means micro adjustments (1/32”) to your rest (up/down and left/right). You barely have to move it to start seeing those broadheads move. Also, don’t worry about the sight until after you’ve got them all grouping together.

All of this.

But at the end of the day, if you're hitting where you need to with the BH consistently, trying to re-tune is something I would leave till after the season.
Posted by beHop
Landmass
Member since Jan 2012
14536 posts
Posted on 11/2/17 at 7:21 am to
quote:

trying to re-tune is something I would leave till after the season


I know this, and I know messing with it could end up causing more problems. I'll just hate that feeling sitting in the stand knowing I could've done it better.
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81604 posts
Posted on 11/2/17 at 7:23 am to
Wow dude...you have serious issues. You're bow situation is fine, and that's all I was saying. For you to get all that from what I posted reveals problems not fixable here. Calm down and maybe see a professional.
Posted by beHop
Landmass
Member since Jan 2012
14536 posts
Posted on 11/2/17 at 7:24 am to


Nah I'm good.

Eta: I'll freely admit that you rustle the shite out of me more than anyone on this entire site (obviously). Congrats I guess.
This post was edited on 11/2/17 at 7:27 am
Posted by AlxTgr
Kyre Banorg
Member since Oct 2003
81604 posts
Posted on 11/2/17 at 7:27 am to
Your bow sure is, which is all I said. Your brain is whack though
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