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Posted on 5/13/22 at 9:35 pm to CP3
More horsepower > less horsepower
Posted on 5/13/22 at 9:46 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
It was either trip 300s or twin 350s.
300s wayyyyy more reliable than the 350. The extra 200hp is nice too though
300s wayyyyy more reliable than the 350. The extra 200hp is nice too though
Posted on 5/13/22 at 10:19 pm to CP3
Yea, that too. Id way rather have 300's hanging back there than anything else.
Thats a fishy looking SOB. I'm jealous. Hopefully she raises fish. Got a name yet?
Thats a fishy looking SOB. I'm jealous. Hopefully she raises fish. Got a name yet?
Posted on 5/13/22 at 10:29 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
It’s me and buddy in on it.
When I run it it’s the “Short Circuit”(because I’m a vertically challenged electrical engineer)
Buddy has “Ghostryder” for the name. There’s a long story behind that one that I need a few more drinks to explain.
Probably flipping it by end of the year though. Have a new Onslow Bay 33 on order that goes in the mold in a few months. Excited for a brand new boat, but TBH I’d love to keep this one since we’ve literally rebuilt it ourselves from the ground up.
When I run it it’s the “Short Circuit”(because I’m a vertically challenged electrical engineer)
Buddy has “Ghostryder” for the name. There’s a long story behind that one that I need a few more drinks to explain.
Probably flipping it by end of the year though. Have a new Onslow Bay 33 on order that goes in the mold in a few months. Excited for a brand new boat, but TBH I’d love to keep this one since we’ve literally rebuilt it ourselves from the ground up.
This post was edited on 5/13/22 at 10:31 pm
Posted on 5/14/22 at 12:16 am to CP3
I need to stumble up on yall for a few beers one evening. I'm not much for glass work but I can supervise with the best of em
Yall will make a killing. I'm not much for sentimentals . Sell that SOB. Keep the motors though
quote:
Probably flipping it
Yall will make a killing. I'm not much for sentimentals . Sell that SOB. Keep the motors though
Posted on 5/14/22 at 7:04 am to CP3
quote:
And by decent I mean 1.2mpg
Posted on 5/15/22 at 2:29 pm to CP3
Man, this is an awesome project that y’all are undertaking…I am totally enjoying following the thread!
Can’t check in on the thread too much though, because it will cause me to spend big money on a boat!
Can’t check in on the thread too much though, because it will cause me to spend big money on a boat!
Posted on 5/15/22 at 5:02 pm to Spankum
Just buy this one
It’ll be for sale sometime late summer
It’ll be for sale sometime late summer
Posted on 5/15/22 at 9:15 pm to CP3
quote:
Just buy this one
Sadly, I am too far from the gulf…
Posted on 5/16/22 at 1:23 pm to CP3
quote:
Finally got around to getting the engines hung. Rub rail going on tomorrow and that should be a wrap
Man she's beautiful. All that anal retentive wiring and seating is going to pay dividends for a long time as you have few problems and when you do, you can go directly access the wiring in question.
Great job.
Posted on 5/16/22 at 1:28 pm to CP3
quote:
Going to start tackling the plumbing and wiring this weekend, and hopefully wrap everything up by mid January.
WHOOPS!!!
Isn't that always the case?
Posted on 5/16/22 at 1:55 pm to Sid in Lakeshore
Lol yeah. Blew that one, but atleast we made it for summer
Posted on 5/21/22 at 6:58 pm to CP3
Cp,
I have some questions if you got a minute. What kind of bilge and fuel hose did you use? On the buss bars, do you size them for the fuse size of every circuit or max current draw plus some factor? What are the loops of wire for in the console? Do they lead somewhere or are they just in case you decide to add something?
I have some questions if you got a minute. What kind of bilge and fuel hose did you use? On the buss bars, do you size them for the fuse size of every circuit or max current draw plus some factor? What are the loops of wire for in the console? Do they lead somewhere or are they just in case you decide to add something?
Posted on 5/21/22 at 7:34 pm to bigbuckdj
quote:
What kind of bilge and fuel hose did you use?
Shields Series 149 rubber livewell hose. 1-1/8” for the (2) 2000gph bilge pumps. MPI A1 rated fuel hoses (as recommended by USCG for fuel feed lines).
quote:
On the buss bars, do you size them for the fuse size of every circuit or max current draw plus some factor?
I start out sizing everything (wire size, bus bars, etc) for max possible load with everything on. I’m an electrical engineer by trade, so I CAD up wiring diagrams and made a spreadsheet for all voltage drops and current paths to size everything. Unfortunately some POS stole my laptop and I lost all of that, but I’ll probably recreate them eventually to have for records. I’ve had several people tell me that sizing for every load being on at max draw isn’t necessary, and even noticed that a lot of top tier boat manufactures don’t necessarily size for a full load of every single circuit being on. But as in depth as the rebuild was, I just went ahead and did full loads for all my sizing anyway. Probably safe just being reasonable as to what loads would all be on at certain times, and factoring intermittent vs constant loads, instead of just summing up every single load though. I used breakers everywhere instead of fuses, but they are all sized for the wire downstream that they protect, or a lower amperage depending on the device it feeds.
quote:
What are the loops of wire for in the console? Do they lead somewhere or are they just in case you decide to add something?
Not sure what loops you’re talking about, but some in the picture were for things that were backordered (VHF and some other things have taken forever to deliver). They’ve since been connected. Other loops are just to make up slack on some of the NMEA/Garmin cables I didn’t want to cut shorter. Also gives some room to disconnect later if I have to troubleshoot or something else.
Posted on 5/21/22 at 7:42 pm to CP3
Thanks for all that. I was getting into sizing buss bars, as I’m sure you are aware if you size them as like a sum of the circuit breaking loads, you’d have some crazy serious monster buss bars. I was thinking I’d go with like my max operating current draw on every load plus the highest circuit breaker amperage on the bar.
Posted on 5/21/22 at 7:53 pm to bigbuckdj
quote:
as I’m sure you are aware if you size them as like a sum of the circuit breaking loads, you’d have some crazy serious monster buss bars.
Oh yeah, I’m aware lol. There were some places where I just used reasonable judgment to size bus bar/wiring. Also used actual current draws vs. breaker amperage on some of sizing where they were coming out rediculously high. For example my load sheet was showing I would need something like a 4/0 wire for the house battery cable to main panel. No shot that’s realistic. I’ve worked on a freeman with 1 AWG from battery to the panel, and it has way more loads than this contender. Even the 2/0 I used for the main battery cable is probably a little overkill in the grand scheme of things. I did stick to my max calcs for anything safety related like bilge pumps, radar, etc though. I would love to know what formulas boat manufactures use when sizing everything, because it doesn’t seem like it’s how we do things in the O&G industry.
This post was edited on 5/21/22 at 7:54 pm
Posted on 5/21/22 at 8:01 pm to CP3
Yeah I think I’ll do the same. If it all was done per my calcs you’d have like welding wire on a decently equipped bay boat. Especially when you get into amps and sound systems, it would seem to need much heavier wire than what’s provided in most boats.
Posted on 5/21/22 at 9:06 pm to CP3
quote:
I would love to know what formulas boat manufactures use when sizing everything,
ABYC E11 and Title 33, CFR 183 Subpart I.
The abyc guidelines are super easy to follow and old revs are available online.
The ABS MVR rules are free online as well and very comprehensive, but they are not as user-friendly as ABYC
Posted on 5/21/22 at 9:50 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I’m familiar with ABYC but somehow I missed the chart. Good to know I way over engineered my setup
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