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Posted on 4/11/13 at 10:08 pm to Soul Gleaux
Yep. None to be found. I suspect what you said, no brass.
Before December, Wolf was supposed to be in the works of releasing a brass bulk ammo round. No word since then but hopefully within the next year or so.
Before December, Wolf was supposed to be in the works of releasing a brass bulk ammo round. No word since then but hopefully within the next year or so.
Posted on 4/11/13 at 10:12 pm to Soul Gleaux
quote:
When it does show up on gunbot its over 50 bucks a box, which is insane. My thoughts are all the brass is going to 5.56/.223.
You can buy the .223 brass and blow it out with a very light powder charge if your rifle is already chambered in .300. Then just trim and load to sammi specs.
Posted on 4/11/13 at 10:13 pm to hypnos
This sounds considerably more dangerous and costly than a $20 hacksaw from Harbor Freight.
Posted on 4/11/13 at 10:27 pm to Ice Cream Sammich
I did say a light powder charge. The reason why brass is superior to steel is that it expands to fit the case. Essentially its the same thing fireing a blank. The reason why I wouldnt use a hack saw is you are cutting away material shortening reload life. Sammi specs recommend disgarding brass after you have trimmed it 4 times. But then again I am studying to be a smith in my spare time.
Posted on 4/11/13 at 10:29 pm to hypnos
Well thats why you trim most of the neck, resize it, then retrim.
But with that being said...
I am not. So I may have to look into your method.
But with that being said...
quote:
But then again I am studying to be a smith in my spare time.
I am not. So I may have to look into your method.
Posted on 4/11/13 at 10:33 pm to Ice Cream Sammich
quote:
I am not. So I may have to look into your method.
Theres three recommend methods, the one you described, the one I just said, and another one involving shaping the brass using the dies. When I get more indepth in reloading(doing rifle troubleshooting and customization atm) if you want I can pass the information on to you.
Posted on 4/11/13 at 10:37 pm to hypnos
quote:
When I get more indepth in reloading(doing rifle troubleshooting and customization atm) if you want I can pass the information on to you.
Id greatly appreciate it. I have learned on others pressed but am still trying to get setup myself. I keep putting it off because it will end up costing me $600-800 and I am hoping that I may run across some bulk ammo that I can drop the money on instead.
Posted on 4/11/13 at 10:43 pm to hypnos
All the saw does is greatly shorten the time it takes to initially trim down the .223 brass. Unless I'm misunderstanding, the discussion about firing a charge and cutting down the brass aren't related at all are they? The firing of the charge would only aid in resizing, you would still have to trim it down to length correct? People use the saw just to get it "close" to the spec case length, and then run it through a trimmer to finish it off.
Posted on 4/11/13 at 10:48 pm to Soul Gleaux
Exactly. I have not started the process myself so I am not very well versed in it. The Makers isnt helping either.
Posted on 4/11/13 at 10:52 pm to Soul Gleaux
quote:
The firing of the charge would only aid in resizing, you would still have to trim it down to length correct? People use the saw just to get it "close" to the spec case length, and then run it through a trimmer to finish it off.
As I understand it, I havent tried it yet because Ive been so busy, the fireing with the light charge forces the brass to conform to the dimensions of the chamber. You still have to measure and trim to proper sammi specs.
Every time you fire a round the brass expands to fit the dimensions of the chamber. This helps to prevent gas blowing back into the chamber increasing velocity of the round. Over repeated reloads brass will come out of spec causing you to have to trim excess material from the neck of the cartridge.
Posted on 4/11/13 at 10:55 pm to hypnos
thats why I have put a halt to building my 300 until ammo finally starts to show up and I can get my hands on some then I'll resume and finish my build.
for now I am gonna concentrate on my next 5.56 build,
for now I am gonna concentrate on my next 5.56 build,
Posted on 4/11/13 at 11:00 pm to hypnos
You have to trim a good bit off the .223 to get it to 300blk length (something like 0.4 inches). Many reloaders use that small saw to hack off say 0.3 inches and then run it through the trimmer to get that last bit to reach saami spec length. Just saves a ton of time, you aren't removing any more material that wouldn't be removed anyway.
Posted on 4/11/13 at 11:05 pm to Soul Gleaux
quote:
You have to trim a good bit off the .223 to get it to 300blk length (something like 0.4 inches). Many reloaders use that small saw to hack off say 0.3 inches and then run it through the trimmer to get that last bit to reach saami spec length. Just saves a ton of time, you aren't removing any more material that wouldn't be removed anyway.
Ah. Ladies and gentlemen there we have it.
Posted on 4/11/13 at 11:17 pm to Soul Gleaux
according to RSILVERS, who helped push the SAAMI spec remington currently makes 3 to 1 300 vs 556 on the machines.
Posted on 4/11/13 at 11:22 pm to HunhBruh
Dont see how that can possibly be true, I've never seen remington UMC in stock anywhere (online or in person) dating back to november. Cant speak for it before that. And have only come across the match grade rounds once or twice, both back in december/january.
Posted on 4/12/13 at 12:14 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Everything i ever read said it started from the .221 fireball
I'm almost positive this is correct.
TOTH knows for sure. He's a whisper shooter IIRC.
I think Mr. Cooper was both right AND wrong in his initial reporting of JD Jones' development of the 300 Whisper. Now let me explain that....
Everything I've read about the recreational shooter/handloader "making" 300 Whisper brass starts w/ 221 Remington Fireball brass. It's a simple matter of expanding the neck (the 300 Whisper full length resizing die has a specially shaped expander ball to do this) from 22 cal to 30 cal by running the brass in the full length resizing die; at the same time, you'll also set the headspace. One could do the same thing by fireforming the brass, but it's a lot easier to use the dies since it's a single pass of the charging handle.
OTOH, I don't know for certain, but I suspect JD Jones makes his 300 Whisper brass from military 223 Rem brass. When I got my 300/221 barrel for my Contender barrel I bought a couple hundred rounds of brass from JD. The headstamp on the brass is not "221 Rem Fireball," but instead has the appearance of military brass. In addition, he sold the brass at a very nice price. I don't think he could sell Remington factory brass at such a low price and make a useful profit.
If one uses 223 Rem brass to form their 221 Remington Fireball or 300 Whisper brass, they'll have to also use a case reamer to thin out the inner area of the formed case. The neck of the FB/Whisper when formed from 223 brass is thicker than is actual FB brass. To keep safe pressures in the round, the brass will have to be reamed.
Posted on 4/12/13 at 12:26 am to hypnos
quote:
Theres three recommend methods, the one you described, the one I just said, and another one involving shaping the brass using the dies.
To make 300 Whisper/300 Blackout brass from 223 Remington, one will need to:
-Use a trim die to shorten the brass.
-Expand the neck to 30 caliber using the full length sizing die.
-Use a reamer to thin out the brass at the neck to the correct thickness. If the brass is not reamed, chamber pressures may become elevated and unsafe.
If using 221 Remington Fireball as the parent brass, the trimming step is not needed.
221 FB is usually harder to find than is 223 Remington, but right now, it's the other way around. 221 FB is not easy to find, but it can be found. 221 FB is more expensive (best price I saw today in stock was $44/100) than 223 Rem, though.
One could expand the neck by fireforming, but it's easier and faster to use the die. Fireforming is used to expand the neck in conjunction w/ moving the shoulder forward and taking taper out of the wall of the brass; this is what's done when fireforming brass to on "improved" version.
Posted on 4/12/13 at 7:31 am to TigerOnThe Hill
quote:
One could expand the neck by fireforming, but it's easier and faster to use the die. Fireforming is used to expand the neck in conjunction w/ moving the shoulder forward and taking taper out of the wall of the brass; this is what's done when fireforming brass to on "improved" version.
This guy knows a hell of a lot more than I do. Listen to him.
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