Started By
Message

re: Washer & Dryer recommendations?

Posted on 8/16/16 at 2:29 pm to
Posted by CAD703X
Liberty Island
Member since Jul 2008
87180 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 2:29 pm to
quote:

Currently have a Whirlpool set from the late 80's or early 90's that I got off Craigslist about 7 years ago. Never had an issue until recently.
Napoleon can probably help you. Is it walking around the room at all? Might needed new damper pads to set it to right

Eta holy bump Batman
This post was edited on 8/16/16 at 2:31 pm
Posted by g8torhomer
Tampa
Member since Jun 2016
63 posts
Posted on 8/16/16 at 2:32 pm to
Repairman fos.. all warranties regardless of manufacturer start at date of delivery. If selling store told you Electrolux had 2 year full warranty they are also fos ...factory warranty on Electrolux is 1 year parts and labor..if machine is still under a year old, call a different, authorized Electrolux / Frigidaire Service Company. Your delivery receipt will show the date of delivery and start of the factory warranty...
Posted by jackvolger
Member since Apr 2017
1 post
Posted on 4/26/17 at 8:35 pm to
I have a Model: LTE6234AW2 Whirlpool Washer Dryer Combo
I bought it used. It worked great where I bought it from. When it got to my house I plugged it in and nothing. They only way it will run is if the washer and dryer run at the same time. I told the landlord that it has to be power problem, given she had an electrician come over and put a 240 inside. It used to be on the porch. I would agree with the landlord but this is the second Washer Dryer Combo I've had here and the first one did the exact same thing. I've tried 2 different meters and can't really get the right readings. Could it be the Washer Dryer Combo?
Posted by bayouballs
Member since Apr 2012
505 posts
Posted on 4/26/17 at 8:47 pm to
LINK

THIS WASHING MACHINE!
Posted by GregMaddux
LSU Fan
Member since Jun 2011
18459 posts
Posted on 4/26/17 at 8:50 pm to
Dude you know a lot about washers and dryers
Posted by CorkSoaker
Member since Oct 2008
9822 posts
Posted on 4/26/17 at 8:52 pm to
Lowes guy told me Maytag and whirlpool are the same company. Go with top load with agitator and whichever one allows more water.
Posted by Napoleon
Kenna
Member since Dec 2007
70981 posts
Posted on 4/27/17 at 1:17 am to
If the washer will only work with the dryer on, then most likely you are not getting the primary leg (black wore) of the power supply.

What is happening is that when your dryer is turned on, the second leg (red wire) sends power through the centrifugal switch on the motor, then to the heating element. The heating element gives resistance, but there is no diode on this model preventing back flow of the 115v from the second leg to the control systems.
With the dyer off there wouldn't be power.

Are you saying neither one works unless both are on?

Like you set the washer and nothing happens then you turn the dryer on and it works?

What about the opposite? Will any one unit turn on without the other.

Come to think of it, it may not be power back feeding.

I forgot you have to send power from the start switch and then the motor doesn't run until the centrifugal switch closes (and lets L2 flow to the element)

It's an odd issue you have.

You need to check your voltage.
240 breakers tend to fail one side at a time. It isn't uncommon to get half power. It's also possible your plug is wired wrong.


Posted by Napoleon
Kenna
Member since Dec 2007
70981 posts
Posted on 4/27/17 at 1:23 am to
what do you mean "right readings"

Check for power between line one and ground, line one and neutral, line one and line two, line two and neutral and line two and ground.

You should have 110-120,110-120, 220-240, 110-120, 110-120 in that order I listed.

If any of those readings are not there, shut breaker off and check continuity between terminals.
You should have an open between either line and ground. You should have an open between either line and neutral, you should have an open between each line. You should have continuity between the neutral and ground.

On the dryer plug you should have open between either line and neutral or ground and then a high ohms reading between l1 and l2. If you have continuity to a line and a ground or neutral you found a problem.

If you do not have 220-240v at the outlet you have an electrical issue.

Posted by FLAK88
Gonzales La.
Member since Jan 2015
494 posts
Posted on 4/27/17 at 5:51 am to
Speed Queen
Posted by Sheep
Neither here nor there
Member since Jun 2007
19691 posts
Posted on 4/27/17 at 6:36 am to
quote:

The best advice I can give is. The cheaper the unit, the longer it will last.


I was gifted an 8,000 year old Kenmore set back in 2007ish. Washer crapped out in 2011. I bought a $250 Roper to replace it and it's run like a dream (except for the fricking baby socks that got sucked into the drain once.)

I've had to replace a few things on that dryer, but you could cook a pizza in that SOB most of the time.
Posted by Big Chipper
Charlotte, NC
Member since Sep 2008
2887 posts
Posted on 4/27/17 at 6:45 am to
I got a Maytag Bravos top loader Lowe's - Maytag Bravos. Do I need to run that Affresh stuff once a month like it says in the manual? Overall, is this a good machine?

Thanks
This post was edited on 4/27/17 at 1:05 pm
first pageprev pagePage 5 of 5Next pagelast page
refresh

Back to top
logoFollow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News
Follow us on X, Facebook and Instagram to get the latest updates on LSU Football and Recruiting.

FacebookXInstagram