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Message
Samsung Refrigerator Repair Problem
Posted on 1/17/17 at 10:48 pm
Posted on 1/17/17 at 10:48 pm
I am having an issue with ice build up in the back of my fridge. It has happened about 4 times over the past 3 years where I can hear the fan hitting ice. Typically I just defrost the fridge and it's good to go but now I'm looking to repair it as it's happening more frequently. It seems like I can replace either the heating element or defrost sensor. Anyone have any experience with this and can guide on how to troubleshoot?
Thanks
Thanks
11
Posted on 1/17/17 at 10:49 pm to TypoKnig
napoleon is the board's foremost authority on appliance repair. not sure whether he will be on this late, though. you may have to bump tomorrow to catch him.
Posted on 1/17/17 at 10:54 pm to TypoKnig
Defrost sensors are cheap. Maybe $10-$11. You've probably got 2-3. You can just change them all or test for the bad one with a multimeter.
If that doesn't work, escalate to the defroster.
I had a problem where the ice chute wouldn't close all the way. It would suck in so much humidity the defroster couldn't conquer it.
Good luck. Napoolean has a Samsung thread or 3.
If that doesn't work, escalate to the defroster.
I had a problem where the ice chute wouldn't close all the way. It would suck in so much humidity the defroster couldn't conquer it.
Good luck. Napoolean has a Samsung thread or 3.
Posted on 1/17/17 at 11:00 pm to TypoKnig
It's iced up. I have to change the thermistors a good bit in those. First thing I will say.... It's impossible to free the back panel from the refrigerator if it is iced up without breaking it. So you will need to replace that panel, OR turn the fridge off with the doors open for 24 hours to ensure there isn't any ice keeping the panel to the back of the fridge. The panel is a thin plastic cover over mostly styrofoam. Imagine what ice impregnated styrofoam does when you try and free it from ice covered evaporator coils.
The new panel comes with a new fan and one of the two sensors.
You will need to melt the ice in the back anyway so maybe unplugging is best? On jobs I don't have that luxury and I always change the back panel. Learned that in a Samsung class. GE uses that exact same fridge as does Kenmore.
Tell me the model and I will tell you how to put it into forced defrost mode. (some Samsungs have a cool interface and can tell you everything from the front)
If it does enter forced defrost then 100% it's bad thermistors, if it does not, then it could be a bad defrost heater (unlikeyly) or a bad defrost terminator.
Good news is that Samsung parts are some of the cheaper parts.
The rear panel is around $90 (remeber it comes with a fan and in some cases a sensor) the thermistors are $15 each, and the defrost terminator is around $25-30. I'm giving common internet prices, a tech would charge more.
The system is complex, but I find Samsung fridges boards to almost never be the source of a defrost problem. Your issue is common in the dual evaporator fridges. A more complex systems, more complex problems. In your case though it shouldn't be too bad.
Get me the model number from inside the unit.
Of course I assumed you have ice in the back of your fridge section hitting the fan (meaning you have a dual evaporator) if it's in the back of the freezer, it's a lot simpler.
The new panel comes with a new fan and one of the two sensors.
You will need to melt the ice in the back anyway so maybe unplugging is best? On jobs I don't have that luxury and I always change the back panel. Learned that in a Samsung class. GE uses that exact same fridge as does Kenmore.
Tell me the model and I will tell you how to put it into forced defrost mode. (some Samsungs have a cool interface and can tell you everything from the front)
If it does enter forced defrost then 100% it's bad thermistors, if it does not, then it could be a bad defrost heater (unlikeyly) or a bad defrost terminator.
Good news is that Samsung parts are some of the cheaper parts.
The rear panel is around $90 (remeber it comes with a fan and in some cases a sensor) the thermistors are $15 each, and the defrost terminator is around $25-30. I'm giving common internet prices, a tech would charge more.
The system is complex, but I find Samsung fridges boards to almost never be the source of a defrost problem. Your issue is common in the dual evaporator fridges. A more complex systems, more complex problems. In your case though it shouldn't be too bad.
Get me the model number from inside the unit.
Of course I assumed you have ice in the back of your fridge section hitting the fan (meaning you have a dual evaporator) if it's in the back of the freezer, it's a lot simpler.
This post was edited on 1/17/17 at 11:04 pm
Posted on 1/17/17 at 11:02 pm to Napoleon
Thanks for the reply. It's the fan in the back of the refrigerator not the freezer. I've gotten pretty good at defrosting it and taking the back panel off.
The model is RS265TDRS.
The model is RS265TDRS.
This post was edited on 1/17/17 at 11:10 pm
Posted on 1/17/17 at 11:10 pm to TypoKnig
That may not be the model I was thinking of.
Yours is this one?
Let me see if I have the manual for it.
Not the Paint in the arse model I was thinking of, that's good.
Yours is this one?
Let me see if I have the manual for it.
Not the Paint in the arse model I was thinking of, that's good.
Posted on 1/17/17 at 11:10 pm to Napoleon
Yep that's it.
And no rush on getting back with me. It's luckily not making the noise now but I know it will eventually if not soon and would like to go ahead and fix it.
Thanks again.
And no rush on getting back with me. It's luckily not making the noise now but I know it will eventually if not soon and would like to go ahead and fix it.
Thanks again.
This post was edited on 1/17/17 at 11:20 pm
Posted on 1/17/17 at 11:13 pm to TypoKnig
Napoleon, I have a Samsung fridge as well. Had a lot of trouble with the ice maker/water dispenser, so I completely shut off the water supply.
We have been having a problem lately where water builds up in the bottom and then leaks out onto the floor. Ideas?
We have been having a problem lately where water builds up in the bottom and then leaks out onto the floor. Ideas?
Posted on 1/17/17 at 11:20 pm to TypoKnig
quote:
I am having an issue with ice build up in the back of my fridge. It has happened about 4 times over the past 3 years where I can hear the fan hitting ice
experienced the same problem including front digital display going out ... with 5 repairs in 2 yrs, Stine offered me a replacement of equal value
Posted on 1/17/17 at 11:21 pm to Napoleon
Here is the manual for it, it covers diagnostics.
RS265TD fast track, Samsung
Similar modle full manual, if you need tear down info.
When you take the back cover off and see ice, is the ice mostly just around the fan, or is it all over the evaporator?
Go to diagnostics and see if it shows any failures.
RS265TD fast track, Samsung
Similar modle full manual, if you need tear down info.
When you take the back cover off and see ice, is the ice mostly just around the fan, or is it all over the evaporator?
Go to diagnostics and see if it shows any failures.
This post was edited on 1/17/17 at 11:24 pm
Posted on 1/17/17 at 11:24 pm to TypoKnig
Napoleon is a hell of good guy and has helped a ton of folks on this board with this type of issues. 
Posted on 1/17/17 at 11:28 pm to dpd901
quote:
We have been having a problem lately where water builds up in the bottom and then leaks out onto the floor. Ideas?
sounds like a clogged drain. frost melts after the defrost cycle and then goes to an evaporation pan. If the drain is clogged then the water will build up and get the the bottom of the freezer. every defrost cycle it will build a little more, until it just pours to the floor.
If the water to the unit is off, then has to be a stuck drain. Turkey baster with warm water works well to clear it.
Posted on 1/17/17 at 11:29 pm to Napoleon
Thanks for those documents
Every time it's happened ice is present around the fan and evaporator
Every time it's happened ice is present around the fan and evaporator
Posted on 1/17/17 at 11:40 pm to Napoleon
I ran the self diagnostics twice and no error codes were displayed.
Posted on 1/17/17 at 11:53 pm to TypoKnig
Do diagnostics, see if you get an error E3 or E5. If you have a multi-meter you can test continuity of the heater and ther terminator. If not, do diagnostics with the panel off and see if the heater comes on during forced defrost.
(DO NOT touch the heating element)
It should sizzle as ice or water makes contact if on after about thirty seconds.
Refrigerator defrost heater /Parts #: DA47-00322J / $60
Refrigerator Sensor Part #: DA32-10109Y / $15 (blue wire)
Evaporator defrost sensor /Refrigerator temperature sensor
Parts #: DA32-00029Q /$20 (white wire)
There actually is no defrost terminator on your model. You have a refrigerator sensor and a defrost sensor. They are cheap. Replace them both. Likely one is the culprit.
If not it's the defrost heater or the control, but you will need the ability to test for continuity and the read ohms to know for sure.
(DO NOT touch the heating element)
It should sizzle as ice or water makes contact if on after about thirty seconds.
Refrigerator defrost heater /Parts #: DA47-00322J / $60
Refrigerator Sensor Part #: DA32-10109Y / $15 (blue wire)
Evaporator defrost sensor /Refrigerator temperature sensor
Parts #: DA32-00029Q /$20 (white wire)
There actually is no defrost terminator on your model. You have a refrigerator sensor and a defrost sensor. They are cheap. Replace them both. Likely one is the culprit.
If not it's the defrost heater or the control, but you will need the ability to test for continuity and the read ohms to know for sure.
This post was edited on 1/17/17 at 11:55 pm
Posted on 1/17/17 at 11:54 pm to TypoKnig
does it defrost when you put it into forced defrost?
No error codes and no defrost when forced would make me assume it's a heater issue.
No error codes and no defrost when forced would make me assume it's a heater issue.
Posted on 1/17/17 at 11:55 pm to TypoKnig
Your defrost timer is fricked. Shouldn't cost much to fix. Need to unplug fridge and get ice chest to put groceries in. Get towels and put it on the ground near fridge.
Have repairman come and replace defrost timer after all Ice has melted.
Fixed!
Have repairman come and replace defrost timer after all Ice has melted.
Fixed!
Posted on 1/18/17 at 12:04 am to Napoleon
Thanks for your help. I'm going to go ahead and order the parts and try and fix it this weekend when I have time. While I have the panel off then, I'll do a forced defrost to see if the heater works. Hopefully it will so I can return that since it seems to be the most expensive of the 3 parts.
Thanks again for all your help
Thanks again for all your help
Posted on 1/18/17 at 12:20 am to Napoleon
Thanks man! Appreciate the advice!
Posted on 1/18/17 at 12:52 am to TigerGM
quote:
Your defrost timer is fricked. Shouldn't cost much to fix. Need to unplug fridge and get ice chest to put groceries in. Get towels and put it on the ground near fridge.
Have repairman come and replace defrost timer after all Ice has melted.
Fixed!
fridges haven't used defrost timers for a few years.
Defrost timer fridges are better than adaptive defrost control units, IMO. Screw energy efficiency if it costs extra to maintain.
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