- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
re: My a/c condenser fan isn't turning. Bad motor or capacitor likely?
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:14 am to LSUSUPERSTAR
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:14 am to LSUSUPERSTAR
quote:
Nothing is starting. Not even the fan on the blower in the attic.
Check the thermostat again. nothing you did replacing a capacitor should effect the blower motor. Either the thermostat is not engaged, a breaker is tripped, or somthing was unplugged or misplugged inadvertantly.
you should have A: a service diconect B: most likely double 240v breaker for the compressor/fan C: A 120V breaker for the thermostat and blower.
Make sure these are all good
1
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:19 am to cave canem
I think I found the problem. There is a connector that looks faulted out. When I press the middle in, everything turns on. But it won't stay in. Trying to upload a picture.
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:21 am to WaveHog
quote:Not an expert but I'd say your fan is about to fail. Bearings prolly about shot.
cycles on about every 10 minutes or so, the noise is absurdly loud. it sounded fine about 4 months ago, then it got kin
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:22 am to LSUSUPERSTAR
quote:
I think I found the problem. There is a connector that looks faulted out. When I press the middle in, everything turns on. But it won't stay in. Trying to upload a picture.
sounds like you found it
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:22 am to LSUSUPERSTAR
If you can manually start it, it's likely a bad capacitor. If the fan motor can't be manually started it's likely the fan.
IMO buy the capacitor first (like $10) then if tht doesn't work, get the fan motor.
IMO buy the capacitor first (like $10) then if tht doesn't work, get the fan motor.
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:24 am to Napoleon
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:24 am to LSUSUPERSTAR
quote:
I think I found the problem. There is a connector that looks faulted out. When I press the middle in, everything turns on. But it won't stay in. Trying to upload a picture.
The relay, that will only set you back like $15. If you can "push" yours in, you have the old style, the new ones are sealed.
You need to paya ttention to the relay voltage (usually 24v ac) and then the amperage, and of course how many poles it has.
So it should be a 2-pole, 24v 30 amp most likely, but bring the old one in. Very simple change out.
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:25 am to LSUSUPERSTAR
What is that thing called? The middle button seems like a GFCI button, but won't stay engaged on it's own.
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:26 am to LSUSUPERSTAR
That's a 2-pole 40 amp 24v switch
Are you in Baton Rouge? They have them at Ideal appliance for $15-20
Are you in Baton Rouge? They have them at Ideal appliance for $15-20
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:27 am to Napoleon
I'm in Arlington, TX. What type of place should carry it?
This post was edited on 6/24/15 at 9:28 am
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:28 am to LSUSUPERSTAR
It's a "pole contactor" to be specific.
I call it a relay, because it is a relay. It gets 24 v from the thermostat and then closes the switch. It gets the 24v cut and it opens the switch.
You may want to find out if you are getting the 24v input before changing the switch.
If you do not have a multimeter, have someone inside turn the A/c on while you stare at the switch, if you do not hear anything then you are probably not getting the 24v.
I call it a relay, because it is a relay. It gets 24 v from the thermostat and then closes the switch. It gets the 24v cut and it opens the switch.
You may want to find out if you are getting the 24v input before changing the switch.
If you do not have a multimeter, have someone inside turn the A/c on while you stare at the switch, if you do not hear anything then you are probably not getting the 24v.
This post was edited on 6/24/15 at 9:34 am
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:29 am to LSUSUPERSTAR
There is a Servall on 2200 Carson St.
Let me see if they have your part in stock.
Let me see if they have your part in stock.
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:30 am to LSUSUPERSTAR
quote:
I'm in Arlington, TX.
Yikes. I've been in FW one summer with no AC, that's not fun.
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:31 am to Napoleon
They have it there.
DP40242 is the part number you want (generic replacement, same thing as the one you have but sealed)
It's $18
DP40242 is the part number you want (generic replacement, same thing as the one you have but sealed)
It's $18
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:33 am to Napoleon
Should I take the old one off first and bring it with me?
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:34 am to LSUSUPERSTAR
Always bring in the old one.
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:35 am to LSUSUPERSTAR
If you want. Just to make sure, but your picture was clear enough that I could see it had two poles, that is said 24v and 40amps.
It's basically universal as long as it meets the main three requirements (amount of poles, relay voltage and amperage)
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:37 am to Napoleon
BEFORE ANYHING. I would check to see that your thermostat is sending the 24v. It would suck to change the contactor and then find out you still need to change the thermostat.
(though of the two the contactor is most likely the culprit)
(though of the two the contactor is most likely the culprit)
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:37 am to LSUSUPERSTAR
If you own a multimeter I would verify that it is getting 24V before I removed it and drove to buy another one. JMHO
Posted on 6/24/15 at 9:39 am to cave canem
I have a multimeter, how do I check it?
Page 3 of 4
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News