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re: Appliance Help Needed: Dryer getting scorching hot

Posted on 5/23/16 at 9:11 am to
Posted by Broke
AKA Buttercup
Member since Sep 2006
65045 posts
Posted on 5/23/16 at 9:11 am to
Electric
Posted by LSUsmartass
Scompton
Member since Sep 2004
82365 posts
Posted on 5/23/16 at 3:30 pm to
So was it the element shorting out?
Posted by Napoleon
Kenna
Member since Dec 2007
69108 posts
Posted on 5/23/16 at 4:03 pm to
your element is most likely broken and making contact with ground. In doing so there is no safety to cut power to it to keep it from getting scorching hot.
Posted by Napoleon
Kenna
Member since Dec 2007
69108 posts
Posted on 5/23/16 at 4:05 pm to
quote:

Google tells me it's a shorted out element


LSU smartass is correct. ANYTHING else and one of the three safeties would cut power when it gets too hot. (though the thermal fus should still trip if it gets above 155*, but i am not looking at a schematic of your model right now. Whenever I get a call for "runaway heating" I expect to change the element every time.
Posted by Broke
AKA Buttercup
Member since Sep 2006
65045 posts
Posted on 5/23/16 at 4:06 pm to
Thanks buddy. Now where the hell is the element? It sure ain't in the back where they normally keep em.
Posted by Napoleon
Kenna
Member since Dec 2007
69108 posts
Posted on 5/23/16 at 4:07 pm to
quote:



I think it's something else. Hell I can't even find the element to test it. But we know it's working.


Heating != working. A grounded element will heat even though it's only getting 120V and not the full 240. You won't find the element until you tear the dryer down.

I can get you step by step instructions if you need.
Posted by Broke
AKA Buttercup
Member since Sep 2006
65045 posts
Posted on 5/23/16 at 4:12 pm to
quote:

I can get you step by step instructions if you need.


Yeah shoot them to my email that you probably still have. But I think I have it:

Remove door
Remove front panel via 4 screws.
Pull Belt off
Pull tub
Element down there somewhere
Posted by Napoleon
Kenna
Member since Dec 2007
69108 posts
Posted on 5/23/16 at 4:17 pm to
Oh man, these are "fun" to put together.

lol

To take it apart you need to remove the four screws holding the door hinge on and then the four opposite screws where the door would go if reveresed. After that the door will come off and the front panel will pull away. At this point you can actually get a meter and check continuity. Hmm typing this out is odd, let me find a video of the tear down..

While internally it's just a standard Whirlpool dryer, the fancy front makes tear down harder.

The door and front panel in this image must be removed.



This unit has a very odd belt configuration, you only need to remove one of the two belts to take the drum off. (you will need to remove drum to access element. It uses the standard late model heating element that Whirlpool uses now)

Part #WP8544771 (wholesale $59.99, retail $103.86)

In this image 54 and 27 (drum and drum rest) need to be removed to get to heater (46- cover, 14 heater)



here is a video that can help you on tear down.
This post was edited on 5/23/16 at 4:22 pm
Posted by Napoleon
Kenna
Member since Dec 2007
69108 posts
Posted on 5/23/16 at 4:20 pm to
pretty much, once the door and panel are off it's like any other Maytag heavy duty, you take the support panel off and remove the drum belt. I would recommend replacing belt as it;s like $10 and you don't want to take this all apart again.
Probably not a horrible idea to throw a new thermal fuse on as well.

I'm on my laptop in my truck now when i get home I'll see if I can find more.

I know I cursed these dryers a few times when i first encountered them The old maytags you opened with a paint scraper and then took off two 5/16 screws. (and the old Whirlpools had the easy access back--current Amana still use this design)





Posted by Broke
AKA Buttercup
Member since Sep 2006
65045 posts
Posted on 5/23/16 at 4:21 pm to
Once again sir, you are the man Thanks!
Posted by L5UT1ger
Member since Feb 2004
2600 posts
Posted on 5/23/16 at 4:26 pm to
Jeez, dude, you are so very kind to do all of that for folks! Just wanted to say kudos.

ETA: and mark the thread to find you when one of mine dies!
This post was edited on 5/23/16 at 4:27 pm
Posted by Broke
AKA Buttercup
Member since Sep 2006
65045 posts
Posted on 5/23/16 at 4:40 pm to
I could almost swear I only saw one belt when I opened the top yesterday. Dammit
Posted by Broke
AKA Buttercup
Member since Sep 2006
65045 posts
Posted on 5/25/16 at 9:37 pm to
This dryer only has one belt. I tested the thermal switch good, heating element good, thermostat good, thermistor within limits. I have to lean control board no?
Posted by Broke
AKA Buttercup
Member since Sep 2006
65045 posts
Posted on 5/26/16 at 8:36 am to
Bump
Posted by Boudreaux35
BR
Member since Sep 2007
21517 posts
Posted on 5/26/16 at 9:17 am to
quote:

I took the back off to check the thermostat and element. It isn't even on the back of the machine. I guess I have to take the front off and the drum??? Help por favor


You know you can find repair manuals for pretty much any appliance. That should tell you where you can find the parts you're looking for.

Oh, and check this online thread. Might be same problem:

LINK
Posted by Broke
AKA Buttercup
Member since Sep 2006
65045 posts
Posted on 5/26/16 at 9:24 am to
quote:

You know you can find repair manuals for pretty much any appliance.


That thread sounds like it could be the problem. At least I have something else to check. But I have to reassemble the dryer in order to do it. Thanks.
Posted by Napoleon
Kenna
Member since Dec 2007
69108 posts
Posted on 5/26/16 at 9:27 am to
check for continuity between ground and the element.

Did your unit have the fan at the bottom or was it attached to the motor? I may have used the wrong model number in pulling that diagram then.

Some of those have the fan at the bottom and a fan belt in addition to the drum belt. No matter.

That isn't the problem. All thermals are good? element has continuity? Check for continuity to ground from any of the terminals on the heating element. That is what would cause the element to overheat.

The control sends power to the element but the bi-metal thermostats control the cut-off and on of the dryer. In sensor cycles the control does cut power to the heat, but for it to get too hot would say that the element is on too long when it shouldn't be. I would think then, if the heating element is not grounded out, (it won't short, it just makes heat being grounded) then I would replace the limiting thermostat on the element.

You say scorching hot, is it hot on all cycles? Hot on "air fluff?"


Posted by Napoleon
Kenna
Member since Dec 2007
69108 posts
Posted on 5/26/16 at 9:32 am to
that thread is incomplete. what to do if he does have 120v at the relay??

Sure if you do not have 120 volts on the output of the relay the board is bad, but generally that is a no heat scenario.


Though if the element is not grounded and the thermals are all good. though you can get a shorted closed bi-metal the control is the problem.
I must have pulled up the wrong unit. I thought you had a knob control.

Posted by Broke
AKA Buttercup
Member since Sep 2006
65045 posts
Posted on 5/26/16 at 9:33 am to
I put the test probes on the element and on the case which should test to ground no? It beeped so I thought that was good also. Visually inspecting didn't show it touching anywhere.

Fan is at the bottom and it's hot on all cycles including air fluff.
Posted by Broke
AKA Buttercup
Member since Sep 2006
65045 posts
Posted on 5/26/16 at 9:34 am to
quote:

I thought you had a knob control.


Knob selects drying mode. That's it.
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