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Message
Taylor 810. Subtle brag. But I got one and I had a question. Probably a Fretshack question
Posted on 2/14/21 at 8:34 am
Posted on 2/14/21 at 8:34 am
Maybe some of you other guys would know. My Taylor is from the 90’s. 1995 to be exact. The nut and saddle are both a tan color near brown?
Why? Age? Material? Smoke? The guitar does not smell like a smokers home. I am the 3rd owner. Guy who sold it to me does not smoke. He had it about 3 years.
Is this normal for these guitars? Or are they both about to crumble to dust with my next string change?
I can and have replaced a saddle myself, but a nut will need several YouTube videos or a well written paragraph from Fret. I wish I lived closer man. It would already be in your shop for a spa day.
Why? Age? Material? Smoke? The guitar does not smell like a smokers home. I am the 3rd owner. Guy who sold it to me does not smoke. He had it about 3 years.
Is this normal for these guitars? Or are they both about to crumble to dust with my next string change?
I can and have replaced a saddle myself, but a nut will need several YouTube videos or a well written paragraph from Fret. I wish I lived closer man. It would already be in your shop for a spa day.
4
Posted on 2/14/21 at 8:45 am to LSU alum wannabe
Imgur link. Hope it displays.
Trying not to violate the pics or it didn’t happen rule.
Posted on 2/14/21 at 8:53 am to LSU alum wannabe
I have an older Guild - ~1980 and the saddle is the color you describe (as are the bridge pins and the strap button.) Been that way since I got it almost 20 years ago. It was used by a professional player for years and I don't really know where he got it. I did replace the nut, but it is more or less the same color as the saddle, bridge pins and strap button - a beige/tan.
I think that just is what it is.
I think that just is what it is.
This post was edited on 2/14/21 at 3:00 pm
Posted on 2/14/21 at 9:00 am to LSU alum wannabe
Just looks like bone to me. Some of it is darker, some is lighter. My Takamine has a 2 piece bone saddle and both pieces are a different shade, and neither one match the nut, which is also bone.
It's a nice guitar man, congrats. Play the hell out of it.
It's a nice guitar man, congrats. Play the hell out of it.
Posted on 2/14/21 at 11:13 am to auggie
quote:
It's a nice guitar man, congrats. Play the hell out of it.
Thanks. I’m planning on it. The soundboard is so damned pretty I spend as much time staring as I do playing.
Posted on 2/14/21 at 11:20 am to auggie
Taylor uses a bone-like synthetic material called micarta. Taylor found it was a better material than bone for their electronics systems, which rely on vibration transfer. It's easy to work with too from a production standpoint. It's not cheaper - most synthetics cost more than their bone equivalents.
In the case of bone, you have bleached bone (snow white) and unbleached bone, which is tan. Most builders like the latter because its pure and natural plus the bleaching process removes natural lubricants from the bone. Unbleached is wetter if that makes sense. It's my preference.
And to answer the most common question I get about bone in luthiery. The American source is typically cattle. The Asian source is typically cattle and water buffalo, sometimes camel. The best bone comes from large mammals with large, dense bones. Preferably femurs.
In the case of bone, you have bleached bone (snow white) and unbleached bone, which is tan. Most builders like the latter because its pure and natural plus the bleaching process removes natural lubricants from the bone. Unbleached is wetter if that makes sense. It's my preference.
And to answer the most common question I get about bone in luthiery. The American source is typically cattle. The Asian source is typically cattle and water buffalo, sometimes camel. The best bone comes from large mammals with large, dense bones. Preferably femurs.
Posted on 2/14/21 at 11:32 am to TheFretShack
yeah, I've got a couple of guitars that have the Nu-Bone nuts and saddles, which I'm sure are the synthetic bone you are talking about. It's high quality stuff, and my ear isn't good enough to tell the difference between that and real bone. I was going to suggest that that might be what he has on the Taylor, but I just mostly wanted to tell him that he didn't need to worry about it, because it's fine.
Posted on 2/14/21 at 11:32 am to TheFretShack
Thank you sir.
In the event a replacement is needed I assume TUSQ would be closest? Please correct me if I am wrong. The saddle style that is on there now has already broken on an Alvarez that I believe was real bone. The B-string just dug in and chipped the area of compensation. I replaced it with a “wave style” compensated. It’s worked well so far.
Not looking to change anything unless it breaks though.
In the event a replacement is needed I assume TUSQ would be closest? Please correct me if I am wrong. The saddle style that is on there now has already broken on an Alvarez that I believe was real bone. The B-string just dug in and chipped the area of compensation. I replaced it with a “wave style” compensated. It’s worked well so far.
Not looking to change anything unless it breaks though.
Posted on 2/14/21 at 11:52 am to LSU alum wannabe
just curious, how did your acoustic build turn out?
Posted on 2/14/21 at 11:54 am to TheFretShack
On this subject ...
People ask me how is it their high dollar Martin or Taylor needs a setup right out of the box? The answer is, other than changes in temp and humidity between the factory and end user's location, is because Martin and Taylor has no way to know if the buyer is going to be Barney Kessel or Barney Rubble.
There are two types of acoustic players, the finesse players, who are light handed, gentle fingerpickers ... and the guys who beat a guitar like it's a drum kit when they play. Bluegrassers immediately come to mind. For that reason, most acoustics come with high saddles and high action because the manufacturer has to err on the side of the hard hitter. Otherwise for that market segment it will be buzzing and fretting out, the biggest deal killer in the world and history of acoustic guitar retail. Doesn't matter if we're talking $250 or $2500 acoustics.
Now, FREE TECH STUFF ...
To take down your own saddle ... without expensive tools or jigs ...
FIRST, set up the guitar with the high saddle so the truss rod and nut slots are where they need to be.
THEN, buy at least two saddles similar to the original one so you can save the original as a reference point and have a backup when you screw up, I mean practice, on the first replacement(s).
Put adhesive sandpaper, 150-grit and 400-grit, down on a FLAT, LEVEL bench top. Remove material from the BOTTOM of the saddle by going back and forth over the 150-grit. Use the 400-grit to clean up and smooth. Use the table top, DO NOT hand sand.
I take off 1/64 to 1/32nd of an inch at a time - I pencil in hashmarks to stop me at each interval. I test between each removal interval. Yes, put it back in the guitar, string it up to proper tension and see where you are at. If you aren't there, start over.
The saddle bottom must be FLAT so it sits in the bridge slot and atop any piezo or pickup insert PERFECTLY. Otherwise, you will have weak or dead string(s) either acoustically and/or amplified. That's why we use the sandpaper on a flat bench top and do not hand sand.
The golden rule ... you can always take off more material, but putting it back is more challenging. Reread what I said about not using the original saddle and buying a few replacement blanks.
People ask me how is it their high dollar Martin or Taylor needs a setup right out of the box? The answer is, other than changes in temp and humidity between the factory and end user's location, is because Martin and Taylor has no way to know if the buyer is going to be Barney Kessel or Barney Rubble.
There are two types of acoustic players, the finesse players, who are light handed, gentle fingerpickers ... and the guys who beat a guitar like it's a drum kit when they play. Bluegrassers immediately come to mind. For that reason, most acoustics come with high saddles and high action because the manufacturer has to err on the side of the hard hitter. Otherwise for that market segment it will be buzzing and fretting out, the biggest deal killer in the world and history of acoustic guitar retail. Doesn't matter if we're talking $250 or $2500 acoustics.
Now, FREE TECH STUFF ...
To take down your own saddle ... without expensive tools or jigs ...
FIRST, set up the guitar with the high saddle so the truss rod and nut slots are where they need to be.
THEN, buy at least two saddles similar to the original one so you can save the original as a reference point and have a backup when you screw up, I mean practice, on the first replacement(s).
Put adhesive sandpaper, 150-grit and 400-grit, down on a FLAT, LEVEL bench top. Remove material from the BOTTOM of the saddle by going back and forth over the 150-grit. Use the 400-grit to clean up and smooth. Use the table top, DO NOT hand sand.
I take off 1/64 to 1/32nd of an inch at a time - I pencil in hashmarks to stop me at each interval. I test between each removal interval. Yes, put it back in the guitar, string it up to proper tension and see where you are at. If you aren't there, start over.
The saddle bottom must be FLAT so it sits in the bridge slot and atop any piezo or pickup insert PERFECTLY. Otherwise, you will have weak or dead string(s) either acoustically and/or amplified. That's why we use the sandpaper on a flat bench top and do not hand sand.
The golden rule ... you can always take off more material, but putting it back is more challenging. Reread what I said about not using the original saddle and buying a few replacement blanks.
Posted on 2/14/21 at 12:03 pm to TheFretShack
quote:
Put adhesive sandpaper, 150-grit and 400-grit, down on a FLAT, LEVEL bench top. Remove material from the BOTTOM of the saddle by going back and forth over the 150-grit. Use the 400-grit to clean up and smooth. Use the table top,
Exactly what I do, and use my calipers to check pretty often. just taking off a few thousandths at a time.
I have also used 1000 grit valve lapping compound a couple of times to get a real slick bottom surface. It did get a nice slick feeling bottom, but my ear isn't really good enough to know if it really made any difference.
I have considered using a nice flat saddle cut in half, with the lapping compound to work the bottom of the bridge groove and slick it up some too, but I never have tried it.
This post was edited on 2/14/21 at 12:17 pm
Posted on 2/14/21 at 12:16 pm to LSU alum wannabe
Had a friend who had one of these as a young teenager. Came home one day and his dad who knew nothing about instruments, had set 3 bricks on top of it while repairing something in the house.
Was all scratched up and he was livid. Don't feel bad though, his mom was a pro piano player and he was always getting guitars.
Meanwhile I was stuck with bullshite at that time.
Was all scratched up and he was livid. Don't feel bad though, his mom was a pro piano player and he was always getting guitars.
Meanwhile I was stuck with bullshite at that time.
Posted on 2/14/21 at 12:40 pm to auggie
quote:
curious, how did your acoustic build turn out?
Weather has me stuck. Warm one day and cold the next. I am to the point where the box is closed. And the neck is attached. Now the small task of placing and aligning the bridge. Lol
Posted on 2/14/21 at 12:46 pm to LSU alum wannabe
No need to rush it, take your time and do it right. Looking forward to some photos and maybe a sample of how it sounds.
Posted on 2/14/21 at 2:09 pm to SEClint
quote:
Had a friend who had one of these as a young teenager. Came home one day and his dad who knew nothing about instruments, had set 3 bricks on top of it while repairing something in the house.
Was all scratched up and he was livid. Don't feel bad though, his mom was a pro piano player and he was always getting guitars.
Posted on 2/26/21 at 5:14 pm to LSU alum wannabe
Bumped for another FretShack question.
Or anybody else who might just be a Taylor nerd.
What is the finish on this guitar from 1995? Is it just a good poly? It’s not a nitro finish right?
Reason I ask is that I want to do a drop fill of a chip that goes I over the binding and purpling.
Or anybody else who might just be a Taylor nerd.
What is the finish on this guitar from 1995? Is it just a good poly? It’s not a nitro finish right?
Reason I ask is that I want to do a drop fill of a chip that goes I over the binding and purpling.
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