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Started By
Message
Falling in love all over again..with a guitar.
Posted on 8/25/19 at 1:55 am
Posted on 8/25/19 at 1:55 am
Haven't played my old Takamine in about 3 months, I swear this thing is sounding sweeter than ever. Looks like a crack might be starting in the top though 
Suggestions on what to do about it? Maybe I can keep it from getting worse? It's kept in a pretty good situation, as far as humidity and temperature are concerned, and always in the case.
Solid cedar top N10, made in Japan. Is there an oil or something that I should maybe use that will help it?
I've had cracked tops before, this guitar is kind of special though. It brought me out of a sort of writing funk, and it's helped me write some pretty good songs. I would really like to save it, if I can.
Suggestions on what to do about it? Maybe I can keep it from getting worse? It's kept in a pretty good situation, as far as humidity and temperature are concerned, and always in the case.
Solid cedar top N10, made in Japan. Is there an oil or something that I should maybe use that will help it?
I've had cracked tops before, this guitar is kind of special though. It brought me out of a sort of writing funk, and it's helped me write some pretty good songs. I would really like to save it, if I can.
This post was edited on 8/25/19 at 2:49 am
2
Posted on 8/25/19 at 10:18 am to auggie
Take it to a reputable repair guy before it gets bigger. He or she will likely wick a proper adhesive into the crack from the backside and possibly use a cedar or spruce spline or two for reinforcement depending on the size of the crack and where it is located.
Bob Taylor has an excellent short series on humidifying acoustics on YouTube. Watch them and apply what you learn. Proper humidification is your best defense against soundboard cracks. You want to humidify the cracked Tak properly BEFORE you go to a luthier to close the crack as much as possible on your clock, not on the luthier's billable time clock.
Bob Taylor has an excellent short series on humidifying acoustics on YouTube. Watch them and apply what you learn. Proper humidification is your best defense against soundboard cracks. You want to humidify the cracked Tak properly BEFORE you go to a luthier to close the crack as much as possible on your clock, not on the luthier's billable time clock.
This post was edited on 8/25/19 at 10:20 am
Posted on 8/25/19 at 10:51 am to auggie
quote:
I swear this thing is sounding sweeter than ever.... Looks like a crack might be starting in the top though
Def have it checked... but that might be the reason for sounding sweeter? An old session musician friend once claimed old glue, loosening binding, and minor cracks were desirable parts of the aging process (then again there's wishful thinking).
I've had a couple with a slight soundboard opening** down center looked at by luthiers who declined to do anything. Even when they were cleating other cracks/splits. Careful with oil on a cedar top, scratches and imperfections soak it up and go dark real quick. I've had good results with Stewart MacDonald preservation polish for cleaning on my spruce tops but really make sure to avoid the dings in cedar. The dark ding warnings was by Jason Burns from Homewood Music (he's pretty good).
**(not all the way through the top cracks)
Posted on 8/30/19 at 5:43 am to awestruck
Had a friend, who builds some damn fine guitars, check it out. He actually has a kind of microscope that he made for checking out the wood that he will be using.
He says that it's just the grain, that it was always there, and I just hadn't noticed it before, but now that the top is really darkening, it caught my eye. Also, It's not a gloss finish, and is really even kind of rugged for a satin finish, so he's probably right. Big relief.
That guy you mentioned at Homewood, I've heard a bunch of good stuff about him.
He says that it's just the grain, that it was always there, and I just hadn't noticed it before, but now that the top is really darkening, it caught my eye. Also, It's not a gloss finish, and is really even kind of rugged for a satin finish, so he's probably right. Big relief.
That guy you mentioned at Homewood, I've heard a bunch of good stuff about him.
Posted on 8/30/19 at 6:28 pm to TheFretShack
quote:
TheFretShack
Thanx man. Your advice, is like free money. I'll take all of it that I can get.
Posted on 8/30/19 at 7:03 pm to auggie
My pleasure to help folks out, anytime.
My test for cracks in acoustics ... wait until dark and put a few flashlights inside it. Light will penetrate cracks that are often invisible to the eye in normal light.
My test for cracks in acoustics ... wait until dark and put a few flashlights inside it. Light will penetrate cracks that are often invisible to the eye in normal light.
Posted on 8/31/19 at 1:19 am to TheFretShack
quote:
My test for cracks in acoustics ... wait until dark and put a few flashlights inside it. Light will penetrate cracks that are often invisible to the eye in normal light.
Oh, the old "seeing in the dark" trick, turned upside down.
Working on old cars and shite, that's how you find bad plug wires, cracked distributor caps and wiring shortages.
Thanx for making me think about that.
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