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re: Audiophile/Vinyl Thread - Post Pics, Advice, Questions, Setups, etc.
Posted on 1/13/16 at 8:46 am to Funky Tide 8
Posted on 1/13/16 at 8:46 am to Funky Tide 8
quote:
I have that Eddie Bo LP. Great shite.
I'm digging it. I'm more into The Hook and Sling but I will get just about anything I see from Eddie Bo, within reason. One of the dealers had this one at the Ponderosa Stomp show but he was asking $300.
0
Posted on 1/13/16 at 10:50 am to TheFolker
Almost bought the Filmore album at Captain's Records in mid city a few weeks ago, but got a copy of Sticky Fingers and Moondance instead.
Probably go back to get the Filmore--the best live album ever IMO
Probably go back to get the Filmore--the best live album ever IMO
Posted on 1/13/16 at 2:03 pm to logjamming
I've got 2 of my dad's original pressings. The cases are beat to shite, but the vinyl is flawless. It's a great recording.
Posted on 1/13/16 at 5:27 pm to LSURoss
The originals had a pink Capricorn label I believe...
Posted on 1/13/16 at 5:46 pm to JumpingTheShark
I figured I would add a little something to this already great thread that would help those wanting to get into audio and better music reproduction, but really don't understand all the ins and outs of the gear.
I have seen many questions here, many very basic, leading me to my next idea...
AUDIO 101
I figured that I could create a detailed post regarding a specific aspect of something audio/audio gear relevant with the intents of a noobie gaining a little knowledge to help them in future purchases.
This is not meant to be a brand X vs. brand Y, but a base of fundamentals so they can make that decision on their own.
I figured over the course of the next few months, when I am bored late at night while listening to a record, I could periodically make installments to Audio 101--with the new topic being whatever nerdy crap floats my fancy at the time.
They will stand out with a bold "AUDIO 101" title.
So, here goes...
I have seen many questions here, many very basic, leading me to my next idea...
AUDIO 101
I figured that I could create a detailed post regarding a specific aspect of something audio/audio gear relevant with the intents of a noobie gaining a little knowledge to help them in future purchases.
This is not meant to be a brand X vs. brand Y, but a base of fundamentals so they can make that decision on their own.
I figured over the course of the next few months, when I am bored late at night while listening to a record, I could periodically make installments to Audio 101--with the new topic being whatever nerdy crap floats my fancy at the time.
They will stand out with a bold "AUDIO 101" title.
So, here goes...
This post was edited on 1/13/16 at 7:07 pm
Posted on 1/13/16 at 6:39 pm to Marco Esquandolas
.........................................................AUDIO 101.........................................................
VOLUME #1---Receivers, Integrated Amplifiers, and Power Amplifiers
So, what do the above 3 pieces of gear do? What are the differences among them?
A Receiver is a single piece of audio equipment that houses 3 main functions--amplification, pre amplification, and tuning (AM/FM radio terrestrial stations). An over simplified explanation of a pre amp is tone control, switching between inputs, and volume.
A receiver can be stereo or multi channel for home theater. If it is a HT receiver, it will have decoding chip sets for all the latest Dolby/DTS and the like formats.
Many newer receivers will also have digital inputs so as to run a computer audio source into it and let the receivers chipset do the decoding of the digital audio file. This decoder is called a DAC, or Digital to Analog Converter.
An Integrated Amplifier is a single piece of audio equipment that houses 2 main functions--amplification and pre amplification. It lacks any type of tuner. Some newer Integrated Amps will also, as part of the pre amp stage, include built in DACs to decode a computer audio file.
A Power Amplifier is a single piece of audio equipment that does exactly what it's name says--it amplifies the low voltage audio signal being sent to it from the pre amp, and then sends it out to the loudspeakers. They can be stereo (L+R) or a single channel, called a mono block. You need 2 mono blocks to have stereo sound.
The advantage of a stereo amp is space savings, while the advantage of mono blocks is each amp has its own power supply (they are shared by both channels in a stereo amp).
The advantages of using "separates", are many. Separates allow for vital sound stages to be housed in seperate chassis, which allows for sensitive low voltage audio signals to be isolated from "noisy" power supplies. For example, in a power amp/pre amp/tuner stack (3 seperate boxes), each piece has its own power supply designed for its very function. The power amps require massive, heavy, powerful supplies, while the pre amp calls for a more gentle, quieter, and lower voltage power supply. The AM/FM tuner requires the power supply to be shielded and isolated so as to not interfere with the over the air signal.
In a receiver, all 3 of the above share the same power supply. While it works, it is not ideal for superior isolation and sound.
Also, separates allow much more room in the chassis for larger heat sinks, larger power supplies, better shielded cabling, separation and isolation of boards---more room for bigger, and better.
In a receiver, all that stuff has to fit in one chassis, making it a pretty tight fit. Some designs will cut corners to allow things to fit into a smaller space (like transformers).
The most important part of an amp is the transformer--it's where the power comes from. Usually, but not always, a bigger, heavier amp will have a nice sized power supply and thus have a good high power output.
Next up...Watts Per Channel--not all watts are created equal.
VOLUME #1---Receivers, Integrated Amplifiers, and Power Amplifiers
So, what do the above 3 pieces of gear do? What are the differences among them?
A Receiver is a single piece of audio equipment that houses 3 main functions--amplification, pre amplification, and tuning (AM/FM radio terrestrial stations). An over simplified explanation of a pre amp is tone control, switching between inputs, and volume.
A receiver can be stereo or multi channel for home theater. If it is a HT receiver, it will have decoding chip sets for all the latest Dolby/DTS and the like formats.
Many newer receivers will also have digital inputs so as to run a computer audio source into it and let the receivers chipset do the decoding of the digital audio file. This decoder is called a DAC, or Digital to Analog Converter.
An Integrated Amplifier is a single piece of audio equipment that houses 2 main functions--amplification and pre amplification. It lacks any type of tuner. Some newer Integrated Amps will also, as part of the pre amp stage, include built in DACs to decode a computer audio file.
A Power Amplifier is a single piece of audio equipment that does exactly what it's name says--it amplifies the low voltage audio signal being sent to it from the pre amp, and then sends it out to the loudspeakers. They can be stereo (L+R) or a single channel, called a mono block. You need 2 mono blocks to have stereo sound.
The advantage of a stereo amp is space savings, while the advantage of mono blocks is each amp has its own power supply (they are shared by both channels in a stereo amp).
The advantages of using "separates", are many. Separates allow for vital sound stages to be housed in seperate chassis, which allows for sensitive low voltage audio signals to be isolated from "noisy" power supplies. For example, in a power amp/pre amp/tuner stack (3 seperate boxes), each piece has its own power supply designed for its very function. The power amps require massive, heavy, powerful supplies, while the pre amp calls for a more gentle, quieter, and lower voltage power supply. The AM/FM tuner requires the power supply to be shielded and isolated so as to not interfere with the over the air signal.
In a receiver, all 3 of the above share the same power supply. While it works, it is not ideal for superior isolation and sound.
Also, separates allow much more room in the chassis for larger heat sinks, larger power supplies, better shielded cabling, separation and isolation of boards---more room for bigger, and better.
In a receiver, all that stuff has to fit in one chassis, making it a pretty tight fit. Some designs will cut corners to allow things to fit into a smaller space (like transformers).
The most important part of an amp is the transformer--it's where the power comes from. Usually, but not always, a bigger, heavier amp will have a nice sized power supply and thus have a good high power output.
Next up...Watts Per Channel--not all watts are created equal.
This post was edited on 1/13/16 at 7:09 pm
Posted on 1/13/16 at 7:41 pm to Marco Esquandolas
Posted on 1/13/16 at 9:00 pm to Marco Esquandolas
What is your opinion on class D amps? Any good for 2 channel systems? I briefly listened to a class D Rotel a few years ago and noticed the new models are back to class A/B.
Posted on 1/13/16 at 10:20 pm to NewIberiaHaircut
Rotel has made class D for years now. They also never stopped making the class A/B amps. It really was just done as a space issue--that's a lot of amp and space to do a 9.1 system with all Rotel class A/B--so they made slim line amps to fill the niche.
Now, that being said, there are a few class D amps that are not too bad. I actually use a Peachtree power amp on occasion to power my Maggies.
Bang and Olufsen actually makes the ICE modules found in many class D amps.
Audio Research made one about 6 years ago--not too bad. They called it a "digital switching Amp".
Channel Islands has made a really good mono class D.
They have gotten better over the last 5 years. They are known for their crazy high measurable damping factor, which gives insane start/stop control for woofers, which results in uber tight bass--bass tighter and more forceful than you may have ever heard.
This is why they were so popular as subwoofer amps.
The drawback is that the mids and highs are also subject to this damping factor too, which makes them sound overly analytical, sterile, clinical, and dry--the polar opposite of an amp loaded with KT88's or EL-34's.
But, they are much better in the last couple years. It was a relative new type of technology for full range speakers, and the amp designers have made drastic changes and done so fairly quickly.
Many big amp manufacturers have a class D in their line up now.
One of the best out there is the Jeff Rowland Design Group. He has been doing class D for 20 years. His new amps are the best in class D, at a price! Bel Canto also has embraced these amps for a while now, but again, not cheap.
The less expensive, more mainline manufacturers are getting there though. Each new generation gets better.
For now, I would use a Class D amp if you need a lot of power for either a large speaker with big woofers or something that is very inefficient, such as large planar or electrostats.
If you have a speaker that is relatively efficient (91 dB at 8 ohm nominal), you should be able to easily drive them to high volumes with just 70 watts of power, provided it is a "good" 70 watts. (I will expand on that in the next installment of Audio 101)...even if the speaker has multiple drivers.
Now, that being said, there are a few class D amps that are not too bad. I actually use a Peachtree power amp on occasion to power my Maggies.
Bang and Olufsen actually makes the ICE modules found in many class D amps.
Audio Research made one about 6 years ago--not too bad. They called it a "digital switching Amp".
Channel Islands has made a really good mono class D.
They have gotten better over the last 5 years. They are known for their crazy high measurable damping factor, which gives insane start/stop control for woofers, which results in uber tight bass--bass tighter and more forceful than you may have ever heard.
This is why they were so popular as subwoofer amps.
The drawback is that the mids and highs are also subject to this damping factor too, which makes them sound overly analytical, sterile, clinical, and dry--the polar opposite of an amp loaded with KT88's or EL-34's.
But, they are much better in the last couple years. It was a relative new type of technology for full range speakers, and the amp designers have made drastic changes and done so fairly quickly.
Many big amp manufacturers have a class D in their line up now.
One of the best out there is the Jeff Rowland Design Group. He has been doing class D for 20 years. His new amps are the best in class D, at a price! Bel Canto also has embraced these amps for a while now, but again, not cheap.
The less expensive, more mainline manufacturers are getting there though. Each new generation gets better.
For now, I would use a Class D amp if you need a lot of power for either a large speaker with big woofers or something that is very inefficient, such as large planar or electrostats.
If you have a speaker that is relatively efficient (91 dB at 8 ohm nominal), you should be able to easily drive them to high volumes with just 70 watts of power, provided it is a "good" 70 watts. (I will expand on that in the next installment of Audio 101)...even if the speaker has multiple drivers.
This post was edited on 1/13/16 at 11:23 pm
Posted on 1/14/16 at 1:16 pm to Marco Esquandolas
Excellent overview. Shark needs to include this in the first post.
Posted on 1/14/16 at 4:59 pm to SUB
Maybe a note at the end of the OP to say the Audio 101 begins on page 55 (or whatever it is)...
Not a bad idea SUB!
I may do vol. 2 when I return from dinner tonight...
Not a bad idea SUB!
I may do vol. 2 when I return from dinner tonight...
This post was edited on 1/14/16 at 5:00 pm
Posted on 1/17/16 at 5:09 pm to JumpingTheShark
Finally getting around to posting a pic of what I'm starting with. First time having a setup.
Project debut iii with my dad's sanyo amp from the 70s and just some bullshite Sony speakers for now. Got about 90 records already though so going strong on that end.
Project debut iii with my dad's sanyo amp from the 70s and just some bullshite Sony speakers for now. Got about 90 records already though so going strong on that end.
Posted on 1/18/16 at 9:57 am to auzach91
Got the deal (steal) of the century this past Saturday.
We went to a few record stores and came across the 1996 Cracker album, The Golden Age.
As if we weren't excited enough to randomly find a gem like that, we were astounded at the listed price.
After researching a bit online, we found that this vinyl is listed on Amazon from $150-$298.
And the value could be much higher if it contains the original poster that it was released with.
We bought the album for $6. Six dollars! And the original poster was inside!
Everything was in immaculate condition. The owner really dropped the ball on this one. So now this classic has new owners. Happy hunting!
We went to a few record stores and came across the 1996 Cracker album, The Golden Age.
As if we weren't excited enough to randomly find a gem like that, we were astounded at the listed price.
After researching a bit online, we found that this vinyl is listed on Amazon from $150-$298.
And the value could be much higher if it contains the original poster that it was released with.
We bought the album for $6. Six dollars! And the original poster was inside!
Everything was in immaculate condition. The owner really dropped the ball on this one. So now this classic has new owners. Happy hunting!
This post was edited on 1/18/16 at 10:02 am
Posted on 1/18/16 at 7:25 pm to Chadaristic
Welcome to the beauty of the vinyl hunt!
Congrats!
I found a CBS Half Speed Master pressing of "The Wall" about 5 years ago.
Bought it for $30...it sells for around $400.
Congrats!
I found a CBS Half Speed Master pressing of "The Wall" about 5 years ago.
Bought it for $30...it sells for around $400.
Posted on 1/18/16 at 8:01 pm to auzach91
quote:I've got everything i need for my set up in the mail currently but this has become the hardest part. I don't know where to start my collection lol. New or old? I'm not sure where to go first lol.
Got about 90 records already though so going strong on that end.
I think I'm going to buy a couple of my favorite albums from 2015 and then a couple of my favorite classics and then just try to hit up the record shops often.
This post was edited on 1/18/16 at 8:02 pm
Posted on 1/18/16 at 9:28 pm to UMRealist
Playing now...
Cyndi Lauper--"True Colors"...Mobile Fidelity Sound Lab--1986/2013.
Cyndi Lauper--"True Colors"...Mobile Fidelity Sound Lab--1986/2013.
Posted on 1/19/16 at 4:01 pm to Marco Esquandolas
Yeah U Rite!!
A new release (today)!
I love some early Dead!!
Grateful Dead--"Shrine Exposition Hall...Los Angeles, CA 11/10/67"
Limited run of 6700. Rhino Records. 2016.
A new release (today)!
I love some early Dead!!
Grateful Dead--"Shrine Exposition Hall...Los Angeles, CA 11/10/67"
Limited run of 6700. Rhino Records. 2016.
This post was edited on 1/19/16 at 5:46 pm
Posted on 1/19/16 at 10:48 pm to auzach91
quote:
auzach91
Sanyo made some good stuff back in the day!
You may want to look into having the pots (potentiometers) cleaned and the caps (capacitors) replaced. It is not too expensive and can really improve the sound a good bit. It is just an age thing. A piece of gear could have been treated beautifully, but time takes its toll on capacitors.
Think of a mint 1967 Mustang that has not been driven in 20 years--while the car itself may be a beauty, the belts and tires and hoses are probably going to start to show a little dry rot.
Good luck with the Sanyo--enjoy it!!
Posted on 1/20/16 at 9:32 am to UMRealist
quote:
I don't know where to start my collection lol. New or old? I'm not sure where to go first lol.
I usually buy new albums (this includes re-issues of classics), but you can quickly build a collection by hitting up estate sales and garage sales. The condition of those records is iffy, but you can get a bunch for very little $$.
Posted on 1/20/16 at 9:35 am to Marco Esquandolas
I have a couple Pioneer receivers from the 70's that I would like to get recapped. Do you have any recommendations for a reputable shop in the BR or NO area?
Also, I have been considering a record cleaning machine. I currently have a spin clean, but I would like something with suction to get the dirt off the record. I have seen that some people are making 3D printed machines, and there are also all in one machines. Any suggestions on one that will work well, and won't break the bank?
Thanks
Also, I have been considering a record cleaning machine. I currently have a spin clean, but I would like something with suction to get the dirt off the record. I have seen that some people are making 3D printed machines, and there are also all in one machines. Any suggestions on one that will work well, and won't break the bank?
Thanks
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