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Posted on 5/28/24 at 9:54 pm to Korkstand
I tried using that foam instead of concrete, but ended up ripping it out after two posts and going with concrete. The foam allowed too much movement.
Posted on 5/29/24 at 7:01 am to Contender54
Kork, people are giving good real world advice here. Don’t overthink it with foam or clips. Just do it the right way that’s been tried and true.
This post was edited on 5/29/24 at 9:05 am
Posted on 5/29/24 at 7:41 am to Tigerpaw123
quote:Why is this?
Use nails not screws to fasten runners to posts
Posted on 5/29/24 at 8:25 am to poochie
IMHO you are sacrificing longevity by not doing it right. A little more money spent now can save you some headaches down the road.
My example - A neighbor and I built our fences at about the same time years ago. He used a "no-sag gate kit" from HD (less $$) for his driveway gates. I had a guy build my gate frames out of welded galvanized pipe (more $$).
One of my neighbors gate panels fell off the post while he was opening it because his cheaper "no-sag" kit broke after about 3 months. My gates were solid as a rock for years. Pay it now or pay it later. Sad thing was, my neighbor was actually a welder, but didn't want to pay for the pipe.
My example - A neighbor and I built our fences at about the same time years ago. He used a "no-sag gate kit" from HD (less $$) for his driveway gates. I had a guy build my gate frames out of welded galvanized pipe (more $$).
One of my neighbors gate panels fell off the post while he was opening it because his cheaper "no-sag" kit broke after about 3 months. My gates were solid as a rock for years. Pay it now or pay it later. Sad thing was, my neighbor was actually a welder, but didn't want to pay for the pipe.
This post was edited on 5/29/24 at 8:26 am
Posted on 5/29/24 at 8:44 am to Korkstand
I just did this recently. One tip that really helped the product of my fence: Once you've done your posts and stringers, screw in pickets about every 16' at the height you're thinking. Throw a screw in the top of each and run a string along the tops. From there you can take a step back to look at the slopes and make any last minute adjustments up and down so your pickets make more gradual slope changes.
Posted on 5/29/24 at 9:35 am to poochie
quote:I know, and it's much appreciated.
people are giving good real world advice here.
quote:I think I've decided against the foam, but I will still use the clips. The staggered 16s will add a lot of strength and the clips will add more where they butt together.
Don’t overthink it with foam or clips. Just do it the right way that’s been tried and true.
Posted on 5/29/24 at 9:41 am to The Mick
quote:I'm wondering the same. The poster said it's for added shear strength, but is shearing screws off a common problem?quote:
Use nails not screws to fasten runners to posts
Why is this?
Posted on 5/29/24 at 9:43 am to Korkstand
Link the clips so we can see what you’re talking about, please.
Posted on 5/29/24 at 9:58 am to poochie
Can't link as I will be making them myself (waterjet), but they will be similar to these Simpson ones except without the folded ears.
And of course instead of going on top the post, my runners will be on the side of the posts and I'll screw from the back side. I will put these where two runners butt together so my screws can go further from the ends of the boards and they won't split.
And of course instead of going on top the post, my runners will be on the side of the posts and I'll screw from the back side. I will put these where two runners butt together so my screws can go further from the ends of the boards and they won't split.
Posted on 5/29/24 at 10:05 am to Korkstand
I think you’re really over thinking this with the clips. You want the least amount of connection points as possible. I am not a professional fence contractor but I’ve built several thousand feet of fence for myself and friends, some over 20 years old at this point. Butting the runners on the face of a 4x4 post, drilled and carriage bolted though and I’ve never had an issue with boards splitting on the ends. The only fence that I’ve built that ever failed took a direct hit from a tornado.
Posted on 5/29/24 at 10:06 am to Korkstand
Assuming I go with concrete, is the fast set "no mix" quikrete good? Wet the hole, pour the bag, spray it some more and it's good?
Posted on 5/29/24 at 10:14 am to Korkstand
quote:
Assuming I go with concrete, is the fast set "no mix" quikrete good? Wet the hole, pour the bag, spray it some more and it's good?
That is what I did and it worked for me. I got that fast set but probably didn't need it. Regular would have been fine.
Not sure what your plan is but after I got all of my posts and runners done, I put all of my pickets, compressor, nails/screws, etc. on my trailer and moved it along my fence as I worked with my 4 wheeler with enough extension cord slack to reach anywhere in my yard.
I'd get home from work, take tarp off the trailer, plug in compressor and go right to work. It saved time not having to move pickets and my compressor around every once in a while as I was finished with a section. When it got dark I just covered it back up with a tarp.
Posted on 5/29/24 at 10:17 am to poochie
I've never seen a fence with the runners carriage bolted to the posts, only screwed or nailed. I imagine that would be strong, and since you're drilling the holes there's less risk of splitting the ends.
Posted on 5/29/24 at 10:18 am to Korkstand
quote:
Assuming I go with concrete, is the fast set "no mix" quikrete good? Wet the hole, pour the bag, spray it some more and it's good?
You can basically do the same thing with regular Quikrete. The fast set stuff works well, but can sometimes set up too fast to work with.
Fast set comes in 50# bags for about $7 each. you will likely need 1-1/2 bags per hole (someone correct me if I'm wrong) as opposed to one 80# bag of regular Quikrete at $5 a bag. You will spend more on the quick set.
Posted on 5/29/24 at 10:29 am to BasilFawlty
Set corner posts perfect on day one. If you have a really long span (200’+) set an intermediate post.
Day 2 run a string abojt 1’ from the top and 1’ from the ground. Put posts in hole, wet hole, pour in regular quickrete, water top till you have about 1” of standjng water, use a rebar or something to poke holes in concrete mix/allow water to flow down, level side to side and barely touch strings front to back, move on to the next one. A 2’ hole filled with wet quickrete and that post won’t move a mm.
Day 2 run a string abojt 1’ from the top and 1’ from the ground. Put posts in hole, wet hole, pour in regular quickrete, water top till you have about 1” of standjng water, use a rebar or something to poke holes in concrete mix/allow water to flow down, level side to side and barely touch strings front to back, move on to the next one. A 2’ hole filled with wet quickrete and that post won’t move a mm.
Posted on 5/29/24 at 10:33 am to BasilFawlty
quote:Yeah this can make a big difference. The common "rule of thumb" that I see is the hole should be 3x the post diameter, but that seems way too big and would take like 5 50lb bags to fill each one. I was going to do 8" holes for 4x4 posts, 24-30" deep.
you will likely need 1-1/2 bags per hole (someone correct me if I'm wrong)
Posted on 5/29/24 at 10:42 am to Korkstand
I usually dig the holes about a foot dia if by hand or with a 10” auger. 10” come to about 1-1/3 80# bag per post at 2’ deep.
8” is tight, you”d only have 2” on each side of the post to fit concrete. That’s if your poles are drilled in the exact spot. Not much room for error.
8” is tight, you”d only have 2” on each side of the post to fit concrete. That’s if your poles are drilled in the exact spot. Not much room for error.
Posted on 5/29/24 at 10:43 am to YOURADHERE
quote:this. And I always cheat posts into about 7 and a half to insure I don’t miss center. I don’t mind trimming the runner a few inches. Also I like to notch my posts to let pickets be flat on posts versus 1.5 inches off on the runner
Use 16' 2x4s instead, alternating where your top/middle/bottom runner end on each post. It'll be stronger that way.
Posted on 5/29/24 at 10:47 am to tigerfoot
quote:
Also I like to notch my posts to let pickets be flat on posts versus 1.5 inches off on the runner
Damn, your reducing the posts cross section by almost half. You essentially have a 2x4 post.
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