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Message
Suggestions for recessed lights for kitchen .. thinking of going 4"
Posted on 3/13/24 at 9:22 am
Posted on 3/13/24 at 9:22 am
I think the 6"form is just too obnoxious.
Our kitchen and dining area is going to have an absolute ton of lighting and right now the plans call for 12 lights..6ea in 2 rows 48" apart. We have 8ft ceilings.
We pre-ran the romex in the right locations before we put in a new ceiling and now it looks so good I'm not sure I want to cut 12 holes in it.
We will also have a light over the sink, under cabinet floor lighting, lighting under the uppers, hood lights, pendant light over the island and light fixture above where the dining table will go.
We also have a box window behind the sink and 2 sets of French doors. In addition we opened a wall into the hall about 84" that also lets in lighting from the hall.
Ok that's a lot to digest; right now it's just a huge open rectangle.
Thoughts? Is that overkill on the lights or will I regret not going ahead and adding them now?
Our kitchen and dining area is going to have an absolute ton of lighting and right now the plans call for 12 lights..6ea in 2 rows 48" apart. We have 8ft ceilings.
We pre-ran the romex in the right locations before we put in a new ceiling and now it looks so good I'm not sure I want to cut 12 holes in it.
We will also have a light over the sink, under cabinet floor lighting, lighting under the uppers, hood lights, pendant light over the island and light fixture above where the dining table will go.
We also have a box window behind the sink and 2 sets of French doors. In addition we opened a wall into the hall about 84" that also lets in lighting from the hall.
Ok that's a lot to digest; right now it's just a huge open rectangle.
Thoughts? Is that overkill on the lights or will I regret not going ahead and adding them now?
Posted on 3/13/24 at 9:25 am to CAD703X
We built a few years ago.
Almost all of the recess lights in our house are 4"
Looks much cleaner and the loss of light is negligible
ETA: with 8' ceilings I think 12 lights is overkill
I think 8 would be plenty
Almost all of the recess lights in our house are 4"
Looks much cleaner and the loss of light is negligible
ETA: with 8' ceilings I think 12 lights is overkill
I think 8 would be plenty
This post was edited on 3/13/24 at 9:28 am
Posted on 3/13/24 at 9:31 am to slinger1317
quote:
I think 8 would be plenty
what about the type/brand/color temp? we've already closed the ceiling so its too late to install full on cans and i think they're overkill these days but i also don't want to put some cheap plastic LED disk in that looks like shite.
any thoughts on the type of 4" lights? its going to be 100% LED so i didnt see a reason to install cans.
This post was edited on 3/13/24 at 9:32 am
Posted on 3/13/24 at 9:39 am to CAD703X
I added 4" LED wafers to my kitchen area to supplement the undercounter and boxed fluorescents (circa 2000 house)
I actually had the small can halogens and recently replaced to the flush wafers. The flush wafers look better in my opinion. Plus they are fully insulation contact so I blew more insulation over them vs the leaky cans that werent
I actually had the small can halogens and recently replaced to the flush wafers. The flush wafers look better in my opinion. Plus they are fully insulation contact so I blew more insulation over them vs the leaky cans that werent
Posted on 3/13/24 at 10:08 am to CAD703X
There is a massive difference between 4" & 6" lighting. How wide is your room?
Rule of thumb is that for every inch of recessed lighting diameter, you want a foot of separation between lighting/walls. Also, if your ceiling is 8' high, you'll want no less than 4' of separation. 4" fixtures would be fine.
We did 6" fixtures but in a straight line across the kitchen and it looks fine. It adds enough light without any overkill.
Do you have pics right now? This feels like A LOT of lighting for what might not be necessary.
I will still say that 4" lighting is the better way to go but I do not know how many you will need. Dimensions of the room if possible?
Rule of thumb is that for every inch of recessed lighting diameter, you want a foot of separation between lighting/walls. Also, if your ceiling is 8' high, you'll want no less than 4' of separation. 4" fixtures would be fine.
We did 6" fixtures but in a straight line across the kitchen and it looks fine. It adds enough light without any overkill.
quote:
We will also have a light over the sink, under cabinet floor lighting, lighting under the uppers, hood lights, pendant light over the island and light fixture above where the dining table will go.
Do you have pics right now? This feels like A LOT of lighting for what might not be necessary.
I will still say that 4" lighting is the better way to go but I do not know how many you will need. Dimensions of the room if possible?
Posted on 3/13/24 at 10:58 am to BilbeauTBaggins
quote:13x30
There is a massive difference between 4" & 6" lighting. How wide is your room?
quote:
Do you have pics right now? This feels like A LOT of lighting for what might not be necessary.
here's a pretty bad one from today (fish eye so i could capture more of the room)
taken from far corner of dining room. to the right is the massive opening we made for the hallway (it was 2 doors before because there was a wall separating the kitchen and dining room where that drain is along the wall.
cabinet guy is going to make a special cabinet to hide the pipe, directly behind him will be the diswasher, sink and range on far wall (you can see the pipe sticking out of the ceiling) and that door goes into a large den.
the right side wall will be a large pantry, coffee bar (with pasta filler thanks to my friends on the home board! ) and microwave underneath on a shelf. the double fridge & trim will be on the wall just behind that ladder.
the blue tape on the subfloor marks the current locations of the recessed lights and thats the flooring in the boxes.
Posted on 3/13/24 at 11:06 am to CAD703X
This is just me, but I'd prefer fewer 6" lights as opposed to more 4" lights, especially if the space is open. I've been in "open" concept houses before and the larger number of 4" lights in the ceiling was noticeable to me.
Posted on 3/13/24 at 11:22 am to CAD703X
We have a somewhat similar kitchen layout (I also have a coffee bar lol) and I really think the 6" straight down the room would work with this, especially since you'll be adding cabinets to the room. Assuming they're standard cabinets with 2' of depth, you'll be having recessed lighting very close to the cabinets if it goes the length of the hallway. That would be my only concern. I still think it'll look fine. A 6" wafer will add a lot more coverage than you'd expect, especially if they're LED.
We did GE Cync Smart Wafers which were a really easy install (minus cutting through the ceiling for about 20') and I will try to get a photo up later.
We did GE Cync Smart Wafers which were a really easy install (minus cutting through the ceiling for about 20') and I will try to get a photo up later.
Posted on 3/13/24 at 11:38 am to BilbeauTBaggins
I'm glad to hear people are liking the puck wafers. I was concerned they would look cheap but maybe in overthinking it like I have with everything in this kitchen
The guys are great labor and will do anything I ask but that puts me in the position of being the default design idiot who missed something major so I stay awake at night going over and over it.
Honestly y'all gave me 2 great suggestions I wouldn't have thought about.. The hidden outlet strips and the spigot behind the coffeemaker.
I guarantee that spigot will get used every single day while the wife's stove filler maybe once or twice a week.
ETA my wife has the design in her head.. I'm just the one making sure everything will fit and electrical, vent pipe and plumbing are in the right places. She could care less about those things.
The guys are great labor and will do anything I ask but that puts me in the position of being the default design idiot who missed something major so I stay awake at night going over and over it.
Honestly y'all gave me 2 great suggestions I wouldn't have thought about.. The hidden outlet strips and the spigot behind the coffeemaker.
I guarantee that spigot will get used every single day while the wife's stove filler maybe once or twice a week.
ETA my wife has the design in her head.. I'm just the one making sure everything will fit and electrical, vent pipe and plumbing are in the right places. She could care less about those things.
This post was edited on 3/13/24 at 11:41 am
Posted on 3/13/24 at 12:55 pm to CAD703X
We did 4" in our entire house when we built 4 years ago. More of a clean modern look. With LED these days, 4" lights have similar lumen and shine angles to 6" lights. So you don't necessarily need more 4" to get the same lighting as 6". Unless you are going for a super bright look, 4" will be fine. With all the other lighting sources you mention, 6" definitely isn't necessary.
Posted on 3/13/24 at 1:17 pm to CAD703X
The slim wafers are so simple and if something goes wrong, you just plug and play a new one. The junction boxes have slots to feed wires to connect wires to one another. GE wafers have clips that you slide into the hole and release. They’re much less of a pain than a traditional recessed can.
That being said, whatever you buy for recessed wafers, stick to that brand and style only. You can’t just change out LEDs like you would with a light bulb. Without Bluetooth, the wafers I have come in warm white. I set them to daylight on the GE Cync app. I’ve seen some wafers that give you the ability to switch between cool, warm, and soft white.
That being said, whatever you buy for recessed wafers, stick to that brand and style only. You can’t just change out LEDs like you would with a light bulb. Without Bluetooth, the wafers I have come in warm white. I set them to daylight on the GE Cync app. I’ve seen some wafers that give you the ability to switch between cool, warm, and soft white.
Posted on 3/13/24 at 1:22 pm to BilbeauTBaggins
quote:
That being said, whatever you buy for recessed wafers, stick to that brand and style only. You can’t just change out LEDs like you would with a light bulb. Without Bluetooth, the wafers I have come in warm white. I set them to daylight on the GE Cync app. I’ve seen some wafers that give you the ability to switch between cool, warm, and soft white.
i swapped about 15 old school cans for retrofit FEIT wifi colored lights at my old house and it was a never-ending cycle of lights working one day, then blinking the next because it lost WiFi connectivity. PITA
definitely would consider simpler models that let you set the CCD/white levels but count me out on more elaborate WiFi/smart crap.
at most i would want to be able to set the CCD by phone app or wall switch flipping; I don't want to have to set it on the light itself then have to pull it out of the ceiling if i ever change my mind to hit a different temp.
Posted on 3/13/24 at 2:57 pm to CAD703X
Yeah I should've clarified. I have one closet wafer that only comes in 3 color settings but I didn't feel like spending $40 to just have it run only on white.
I really enjoy my GE Smart Switch which will turn on kitchen lights by motion activation during darker times of the day. It'll also stay off if there is enough interior light (i.e. lighting from windows coming in) to not warrant needing the wafers turned on. It's an annoying setup but once it's done it's fairly user friendly.
I really enjoy my GE Smart Switch which will turn on kitchen lights by motion activation during darker times of the day. It'll also stay off if there is enough interior light (i.e. lighting from windows coming in) to not warrant needing the wafers turned on. It's an annoying setup but once it's done it's fairly user friendly.
Posted on 3/13/24 at 8:29 pm to CAD703X
Halo makes a 3” canless trim that puts out like 740 lumens or so, that’s what I would use
ETA: I’m partial to the ones that are still slightly recessed over the flat wafers
ETA: I’m partial to the ones that are still slightly recessed over the flat wafers
This post was edited on 3/13/24 at 8:31 pm
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