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St. Augustine maintenance schedule
Posted on 3/28/20 at 11:37 pm
Posted on 3/28/20 at 11:37 pm
Would anyone care to share their maintenance schedule and products they use? It would be greatly appreciated. I have failed the passed two years and want to get it right this year. Thanks I’m advance.
Posted on 3/29/20 at 9:44 am to Lsutiger2424
I have several threads bookmarked with the suggestions. My plan is to go through them and put a schedule together. I will try and do it this week and post it for comment/suggestions by our resident experts.
Posted on 3/29/20 at 10:47 am to Lsutiger2424
The best thing for St. Aug is to raise your mower.
People lose their St. Aug because they cut it too short. The grass blades should be 3-4” long.
People lose their St. Aug because they cut it too short. The grass blades should be 3-4” long.
Posted on 3/29/20 at 10:59 am to Lsutiger2424
Spot treat weeds throughout the year on no set schedule.
February-Full spray barricade. Add tripower if lawn is full of weeds.
End of March/beginning of April. 25-3-5 granular fert. Apply granular Heritage if large patch or take all patch is noticed.
Every 4-6 weeks after apply liquid iron and Talstar. Add propiconizole if leaf spot is present.
September-granular Heritage if large patch is present.
October-Princep pre em
Starting in March I’ll spot treat with Manor or Celsius.
Top choice once a year for fire ants
Arena for grubs.
February-Full spray barricade. Add tripower if lawn is full of weeds.
End of March/beginning of April. 25-3-5 granular fert. Apply granular Heritage if large patch or take all patch is noticed.
Every 4-6 weeks after apply liquid iron and Talstar. Add propiconizole if leaf spot is present.
September-granular Heritage if large patch is present.
October-Princep pre em
Starting in March I’ll spot treat with Manor or Celsius.
Top choice once a year for fire ants
Arena for grubs.
Posted on 3/29/20 at 11:19 am to Golfer
"The best thing for St. Aug is to raise your mower.
People lose their St. Aug because they cut it too short. The grass blades should be 3-4” long."
This is the best advice I would give anyone. If you have a lawn service doing your lawn, there is a ZTR set too low scalping the hell out it. Once they edge, weedeat and blow it clean, everyone thinks its fine. Its not. Every weed and fungus problem stems from height of cut. The thing I see in home lawns is people scalp the st. aug when its at its peak growing time. This is when it should be its longest. You can go lower in the fall to spring, but raise the mower as the grass wakes up.
People lose their St. Aug because they cut it too short. The grass blades should be 3-4” long."
This is the best advice I would give anyone. If you have a lawn service doing your lawn, there is a ZTR set too low scalping the hell out it. Once they edge, weedeat and blow it clean, everyone thinks its fine. Its not. Every weed and fungus problem stems from height of cut. The thing I see in home lawns is people scalp the st. aug when its at its peak growing time. This is when it should be its longest. You can go lower in the fall to spring, but raise the mower as the grass wakes up.
Posted on 3/29/20 at 2:05 pm to BonesMalone
Question. When they say 3”, how do you measure? Does this mean while mower is on concrete, measure 3” to bottom of mower blade base?
I would imagine it’s 3” from top of soil to cut on grass. But this is kind of uncertain because turf can be squished down and such.
I would imagine it’s 3” from top of soil to cut on grass. But this is kind of uncertain because turf can be squished down and such.
Posted on 3/29/20 at 2:09 pm to jyoung1
quote:
Question. When they say 3”, how do you measure? Does this mean while mower is on concrete, measure 3” to bottom of mower blade base?
That’s how I do it.
Posted on 3/29/20 at 3:00 pm to jyoung1
I push mow my st aug and collect the clippings. Every mower is different and I've got live oaks so my ground stays pretty hard. In the middle of winter, picking up leaves, my mower is usually on a middle setting. In the middle of summer, its near the top and I just mow more often. Its really just for 3 months, so I just suck it up, probably every 5 days,
Posted on 3/29/20 at 5:22 pm to WPBTiger
Thank you. Let’s try to sticky that.
Posted on 3/29/20 at 5:49 pm to Lsutiger2424
1) with ur mover on concrete
2) adjust mower height so the bottom edge of the mower frame is 3” from the concrete for all 4 wheels
3) blades are 1/2” to 1” above the bottom edge of the mower
4) mulching blades are better than flat blades
5) start mower and get after it baw, dis ain’t rocket science or brain surgery...
2) adjust mower height so the bottom edge of the mower frame is 3” from the concrete for all 4 wheels
3) blades are 1/2” to 1” above the bottom edge of the mower
4) mulching blades are better than flat blades
5) start mower and get after it baw, dis ain’t rocket science or brain surgery...
This post was edited on 3/29/20 at 5:53 pm
Posted on 3/29/20 at 8:04 pm to ronk
So what fertilizer and all should I get? I have a Home Depot and tractor supply by me. Can’t really find anything online
This post was edited on 3/29/20 at 8:05 pm
Posted on 3/29/20 at 9:17 pm to Lsutiger2424
Look for some close to 25-3-5. You’re not going to find it at Home Depot because sell combo’s fert/weed control (correct me if I’m wrong other gurus). I use liquid iron but you’ll probably have to use houactinite or milorganite for iron.
Posted on 3/29/20 at 9:39 pm to ronk
Well there really isn’t anything here that would carry what is recommended in St. Bernard. I could make the short trip to slidell if anyone has a suggestion on where I should go.
Posted on 3/29/20 at 10:21 pm to Lsutiger2424
What does tractor supply have? I haven’t looked through their products.
Posted on 3/29/20 at 10:26 pm to ronk
Pretty much the same thing and a couple of others that aren’t even close and some lime. That’s about it.
Posted on 3/29/20 at 10:56 pm to Lsutiger2424
The reason I suggest something close to 25% nitrogen is the amount of product you’ll have to buy. You can apply 1-0-0 and put out the same amount on N as 25-3-5. You’ll just have to put out 25 times as much.
What does tractor supply have?
What does tractor supply have?
Posted on 3/30/20 at 5:23 am to ronk
The iron 1-0-0 is a great way to get everything you want out of your lawn: green and not a ton of growth. I used to do weed and feed in the spring and fall, and if you’re lawn is usually weak and has spotty growth, that’s good. But if it’s a pretty strong stand of turf, why push it so much?
As the grass wakes up and temps get warmer and your height of cut gets higher, the grass will make its own food. The iron will give it good color, but growth isn’t what you’re looking for. It’s not healthy for a lawn to grow like wildfire. Especially if you mulch. That’s just dead tissue being put back into the canopy with excessive growth.
A fall application that will last till spring is all st aug really needs.
As the grass wakes up and temps get warmer and your height of cut gets higher, the grass will make its own food. The iron will give it good color, but growth isn’t what you’re looking for. It’s not healthy for a lawn to grow like wildfire. Especially if you mulch. That’s just dead tissue being put back into the canopy with excessive growth.
A fall application that will last till spring is all st aug really needs.
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