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Started By
Message
Spray foam vs other insulation
Posted on 10/3/21 at 11:31 pm
Posted on 10/3/21 at 11:31 pm
Just moved into a house looking to insulate the Attic. Will Spray foam be my best choice, or other insulation. My only concern with spray foam is a roof leak. Please let me know what y’all think!!
Thanks
Thanks
Posted on 10/4/21 at 7:30 am to Coach1
so this is existing house?
if so dont, dont go spray foam unless you are wanting change your roof. I.e. change it from vented to non vented. ALso will need to change AC if you are wanting to really do it right.
as far as roof leaks, you should be using open cell on the roof anyways which allows you to see a leak pretty easily.
if so dont, dont go spray foam unless you are wanting change your roof. I.e. change it from vented to non vented. ALso will need to change AC if you are wanting to really do it right.
as far as roof leaks, you should be using open cell on the roof anyways which allows you to see a leak pretty easily.
Posted on 10/4/21 at 9:45 am to lsu777
quote:
if so dont, dont go spray foam unless you are wanting change your roof. I.e. change it from vented to non vented. ALso will need to change AC if you are wanting to really do it right.
Why is this?
Posted on 10/4/21 at 1:12 pm to Schmelly
spray foam seals your house off, roof is completely covered in foam.
WIth traditional insulation you either have a ridge vent or whirl birds to allow the air to circulate outside. Plus traditionally the vents from the bathroom just empty into the attic.
with spray foam, all the vents have to be run out past when the foam ties in to keep the gases from building up since the roof and walls are now sealed.
also the whirly birds and ridge vent now need to be changed because they are not needed. You have to pull them off, fix wood underneath to no longer have opening and put back on shingles.
as far as AC goes
1) because of the air tight seal, your Current AC will more than likely be oversized. typical spray foam insulated homes get about 0.10 to 0.20 Air Changes per Hour or about a 5-10 hour exchange of air. This leads to a big reduction in heating and cooling loads. This can also be a big issue if you have naturally aspirating appliances from the fiberglass desing of the house.
2) humidty can build up in the spray foam without proper AC design. really need standalone dehumidifier installed and variable speed blower
3) duct work should be open air return as you want the air in the attic cirulating also
4) really need 2 stage units. Lots of differing opinions on what is best but imo
For comfort and humidity control, a variable capacity(25%-100%) heat pump system with whole house ventilating dehumidifier is the best choice
second best is 2 stage heat pump system(70%/100%) with ventilating dehumidifier
3rd and most basic system: single stage heat pump with variable speed indoor fan with ventilating dehumidifier.
this is strictly based off expierence with my houses i have lived in with spray foam and a couple friends that have it, along with talking to couple AC guys. I am not an HVAC guy.
now OP may be just wanting to do spray foam on the ceiling and not the roof which is different and I BELIEVE that in that case its simlar to regular fiberglass insulation.
I also have heard of a retrofit where they left fiberglass on the ceiling, sprayed the foam on the roof deck but cut out the whirly birds and allowed the house to vent and used the spray foam as strictly a reflective barrier. IMO OP would be better off adding insulation and adding a radiant barrier.
WIth traditional insulation you either have a ridge vent or whirl birds to allow the air to circulate outside. Plus traditionally the vents from the bathroom just empty into the attic.
with spray foam, all the vents have to be run out past when the foam ties in to keep the gases from building up since the roof and walls are now sealed.
also the whirly birds and ridge vent now need to be changed because they are not needed. You have to pull them off, fix wood underneath to no longer have opening and put back on shingles.
as far as AC goes
1) because of the air tight seal, your Current AC will more than likely be oversized. typical spray foam insulated homes get about 0.10 to 0.20 Air Changes per Hour or about a 5-10 hour exchange of air. This leads to a big reduction in heating and cooling loads. This can also be a big issue if you have naturally aspirating appliances from the fiberglass desing of the house.
2) humidty can build up in the spray foam without proper AC design. really need standalone dehumidifier installed and variable speed blower
3) duct work should be open air return as you want the air in the attic cirulating also
4) really need 2 stage units. Lots of differing opinions on what is best but imo
For comfort and humidity control, a variable capacity(25%-100%) heat pump system with whole house ventilating dehumidifier is the best choice
second best is 2 stage heat pump system(70%/100%) with ventilating dehumidifier
3rd and most basic system: single stage heat pump with variable speed indoor fan with ventilating dehumidifier.
this is strictly based off expierence with my houses i have lived in with spray foam and a couple friends that have it, along with talking to couple AC guys. I am not an HVAC guy.
now OP may be just wanting to do spray foam on the ceiling and not the roof which is different and I BELIEVE that in that case its simlar to regular fiberglass insulation.
I also have heard of a retrofit where they left fiberglass on the ceiling, sprayed the foam on the roof deck but cut out the whirly birds and allowed the house to vent and used the spray foam as strictly a reflective barrier. IMO OP would be better off adding insulation and adding a radiant barrier.
Posted on 10/4/21 at 1:48 pm to Coach1
We moved into an older home and I was in the same situation. I decided to go with spray foam on the roof deck. We have/had ridge vents but those were sprayed with foam also. I put a thermometer that also detects humidity in the attic. The temperature and humidity are extremely low after the install. One day the attic hit 109. Most of the summer it was from 102 to 106. Average humidity is anywhere from 55% to 63%.
We used open cell foam. My a/c guy has been here after the foam was done and he said he thinks we're fine. We don't use our bathroom vents since they are not vented outside.
I'm not saying I made the correct choice but that's what we did. Hoping there are no issues in the long run.
We used open cell foam. My a/c guy has been here after the foam was done and he said he thinks we're fine. We don't use our bathroom vents since they are not vented outside.
I'm not saying I made the correct choice but that's what we did. Hoping there are no issues in the long run.
Posted on 10/4/21 at 3:20 pm to prestigeworldwide
quote:
We moved into an older home and I was in the same situation. I decided to go with spray foam on the roof deck. We have/had ridge vents but those were sprayed with foam also. I put a thermometer that also detects humidity in the attic. The temperature and humidity are extremely low after the install. One day the attic hit 109. Most of the summer it was from 102 to 106. Average humidity is anywhere from 55% to 63%.
We used open cell foam. My a/c guy has been here after the foam was done and he said he thinks we're fine. We don't use our bathroom vents since they are not vented outside.
I'm not saying I made the correct choice but that's what we did. Hoping there are no issues in the long run.
i have heard of people doing that. did you seal the attic completely on the sides?
so you just covered the ridge vent with foam?
Posted on 10/4/21 at 3:36 pm to lsu777
quote:
if so dont, dont go spray foam unless you are wanting change your roof. I.e. change it from vented to non vented. ALso will need to change AC if you are wanting to really do it right.
Would also require retrofits or replacement of any existing atmospheric combustion furnace, tankless water heater, etc that might be in the attic with sealed combustion units…
Posted on 10/4/21 at 3:47 pm to lsu777
They encapsulated the entire attic actually.
Posted on 10/4/21 at 4:59 pm to Coach1
I would look at RoxWol on an older home
Posted on 10/5/21 at 8:59 am to prestigeworldwide
quote:
They encapsulated the entire attic actually.
10 bucks says you are replacing your coil within 5 years due to leak.
Posted on 10/5/21 at 9:22 am to lsu777
quote:
10 bucks says you are replacing your coil within 5 years due to leak.
Why is that?
Posted on 10/5/21 at 9:25 am to prestigeworldwide
just from the issues i have seen and heard of in the past.
mainly from buildup of humidity in the attic due to not being open returns.
mainly from buildup of humidity in the attic due to not being open returns.
Posted on 10/5/21 at 9:48 am to lsu777
quote:
just from the issues i have seen and heard of in the past.
mainly from buildup of humidity in the attic due to not being open returns.
Can that be resolved by pulling some "fresh" air from the attic?
Posted on 10/5/21 at 9:57 am to prestigeworldwide
quote:
Can that be resolved by pulling some "fresh" air from the attic?
i have no clue. I know in my old house, spray foam was a new thing and i didnt have open air returns. At first....everything was great for about 7 years. then started having issue and having to add freon. Then after second time they started checking for leaks, found one on the coil, eventually opted to change whole air handler because it came with new warranty. Original idiot that did my original install had went out of business and had never registered the unit to get the OG warranty.
You may have no problems, but i would monitor the humidty in the attic big time.
Posted on 10/5/21 at 10:03 am to Coach1
In addition to all the good comments/advice provided, I frequently listen to the Home Improvement radio program on Sat AM on WWL 870 radio in New Orleans. The host, Paul LaGrange, is a forensic building inspector, a former residential house contractor and he also has a sister spray foam company (his words). He has numerous calls to his show on this topic.
In a nutshell he says unless the attic can be 100% spray foamed (open cell) all the way to furtherest point of the eaves he recommends the attic not be spray foamed but rather improve traditional existing attic insulation and seal air filtration points between the attic and conditioned space below.
He stated numerous homes he personally inspects in New Orleans that request quotes are not good candidates for spray foam b/c of inability to effectively incapsulate the entire attic - access to the eaves is impossible in some older homes. It’s much easier to spray foam new construction than to retrofit. Anyway food for thought - each house is going to be different in that regards.
In a nutshell he says unless the attic can be 100% spray foamed (open cell) all the way to furtherest point of the eaves he recommends the attic not be spray foamed but rather improve traditional existing attic insulation and seal air filtration points between the attic and conditioned space below.
He stated numerous homes he personally inspects in New Orleans that request quotes are not good candidates for spray foam b/c of inability to effectively incapsulate the entire attic - access to the eaves is impossible in some older homes. It’s much easier to spray foam new construction than to retrofit. Anyway food for thought - each house is going to be different in that regards.
This post was edited on 10/5/21 at 11:46 am
Posted on 10/5/21 at 10:14 am to CrawDude
The original a/c is still running from 2002. My plan was to have a new Trane heat pump installed this winter. I don't want to wait until the unit goes out and then deal with one possibly not being in stock or be put on a waiting list during the heat of summer.
The company I'm going to use also does spray foam so I'll ask for their input on the foam and if I need to do anything.
The company I'm going to use also does spray foam so I'll ask for their input on the foam and if I need to do anything.
Posted on 10/5/21 at 10:29 am to prestigeworldwide
quote:My foamed house attic rarely gets above 78 or so. As a poster said I would get an AC guy there that really familiar with foam.
The temperature and humidity are extremely low after the install. One day the attic hit 109. Most of the summer it was from 102 to 106. Average humidity is anywhere from 55% to 63%.
As he alluded to, they tear up coils, especially copper coils. Mine if 5 years old and needs to be replaced. Going with aluminum? or some blend.
Also have fresh air dumping in from the soffits that is not filtered..so that needs to be done. After that we will assess if dehumidifier is needed.
So many AC contractors dont pay attention to the slightest details regarding foam homes....
Posted on 10/5/21 at 10:41 am to lsu777
quote:Same here. The goofs used a 2014 coil in a home built in 2016, I guess they just bought a crap load of York coils and had em sitting around. Got freon added yesterday...hopefully getting coil quote today to decide. Will probably replace both in early spring to avoid bullcrap problems this summer. Also adding the dehumidifier in attic to try to do it all perfect.
Original idiot that did my original install had went out of business and had never registered the unit to get the OG warranty.
Posted on 10/5/21 at 10:50 am to tigerfoot
forgot about the copper coils. needs to be aluminum like you mentioned. I remembered it was something with the reaction to out gassing or something.
and yea you either seal the shite out of it or you do radiant barrier imo.
but dehumidification helps
and yea i had full spray foam in old house and in my new house and Mother in law has it where i am staying. Old house we used to keep on 62 at night would not get above 70 during the day most of the time and that is with most windows facing west and only one 5 ton unit on 3100 living.
new house is much more effecient and has 4 units and master suite has its own, bedrooms upstairs have their own etc so you dont have to cool the whole house so low at night. Overall spray foam is awesome if done correctly and you have a good AC guy. Makes all the difference in the world.
and yea you either seal the shite out of it or you do radiant barrier imo.
but dehumidification helps
and yea i had full spray foam in old house and in my new house and Mother in law has it where i am staying. Old house we used to keep on 62 at night would not get above 70 during the day most of the time and that is with most windows facing west and only one 5 ton unit on 3100 living.
new house is much more effecient and has 4 units and master suite has its own, bedrooms upstairs have their own etc so you dont have to cool the whole house so low at night. Overall spray foam is awesome if done correctly and you have a good AC guy. Makes all the difference in the world.
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