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Soffit Vent Question (Radiant Barrier Topic)
Posted on 9/10/20 at 2:52 pm
Posted on 9/10/20 at 2:52 pm
I'm planning on adding radiant barrier to large portions of my attic whenever it isn't death valley up there. Ahead of that, I went around and cleaned all of my soffit vents. In doing so, I noticed that the south facing (front) side of my house has very few vents. I have a bunch around the north, east and west. I suspect it was done for aesthetic reasons.
Before I do the the radiant barrier,is there any harm in adding a few more soffit vents to the front portion of my house?
Is that typical, with the thought being to suck air on the always shaded north side? I know there is potential harm in too many top vents and drawing cool house air up. What is the logic on soffit vents? Seems like they would be more passive in sucking air in when the hot air convection drew it in.
FWIW I also plan on sealing my penetrations in the attic.
Before I do the the radiant barrier,is there any harm in adding a few more soffit vents to the front portion of my house?
Is that typical, with the thought being to suck air on the always shaded north side? I know there is potential harm in too many top vents and drawing cool house air up. What is the logic on soffit vents? Seems like they would be more passive in sucking air in when the hot air convection drew it in.
FWIW I also plan on sealing my penetrations in the attic.
This post was edited on 9/23/20 at 2:08 pm
Posted on 9/10/20 at 3:17 pm to RaginCajunz
quote:
Before I do the the radiant barrier,is there any harm in adding a few more soffit vents to the front portion of my house?
No, but figure out if you need it first (see below).
quote:
Seems like they would be more passive in sucking air in when the hot air convection drew it in.
This is correct
Do you the know the formula for roof vent area? minimum 1/150 of the attic area, with the soffit vent and ridge vent area equally divided, or each 1/300 of the attic area. For example, attic area 2000 sq ft, so you should have at a minimum of 13.33 sq ft total vent area, with 6 2/3 sq ft of soffit vent area and 6 2/3 sq ft of ridge vent area. If you have at least that much, I don’t think you need to add more.
Want a bunch of easy to read detail, read this. LINK
ETA: You decide on a radiant barrier material? I ordered some samples from atticfoil.com. That product looks to be durable.
This post was edited on 9/10/20 at 5:31 pm
Posted on 9/10/20 at 3:50 pm to CrawDude
My main concern was putting that radiant barrier on the south side, which is the largest expanse of roof and also with the most sun exposure, but no cool air being sucked up into the "channels" the radiant barrier would create. It seems like without fresh air intake I'd create more of a stagnant air (understanding not to go all the way to the ridge) situation. I suppose the hot air would rise either way, but fresh updraft seems very beneficial.
I appreciate the info and link!
As far a the material, I was looking at some on Amazon with good reviews. I am not convinced there is much difference in the stuff the more I read. It's all pretty much mildly perforated shiney metal/plastic. Doing it seems very beneficial, but the marginal difference between products I doubt is a big deal.
I appreciate the info and link!
As far a the material, I was looking at some on Amazon with good reviews. I am not convinced there is much difference in the stuff the more I read. It's all pretty much mildly perforated shiney metal/plastic. Doing it seems very beneficial, but the marginal difference between products I doubt is a big deal.
Posted on 9/10/20 at 5:37 pm to RaginCajunz
quote:
My main concern was putting that radiant barrier on the south side, which is the largest expanse of roof and also with the most sun exposure, but no cool air being sucked up into the "channels" the radiant barrier would create.
Understood. Go ahead and add some additional soffit vents to the front southern exposure to alleviate your concern, I don’t see any downside and certainly easy to do.
Posted on 9/10/20 at 7:23 pm to Cracker
quote:
You can’t have enough
Yes you can.
Posted on 9/11/20 at 9:49 am to RaginCajunz
Can I hose these things off when I'm cleaning the house? I'm always paranoid that I'll do damage with too much water getting in the attic.
Posted on 9/11/20 at 11:06 am to OysterPoBoy
quote:
Can I hose these things off when I'm cleaning the house? I'm always paranoid that I'll do damage with too much water getting in the attic.
I wouldn't. You're going to blast water up onto unprotected lumber including mostly likely thin plywood used for the soffits.
It took me about an hour. I had a combo of tools. The primary one was my shop vac with the straight extensions and a brush cup end. The vents nearest my dryer vent seemed way more caked, and I ended up unscrewing them to clean. I used a stiff bristled straight dustpan broom from my kid's toy cleaning set and a regular broom.
It was pretty shocking how clogged the were with assorted lint. I put all new vents on about 2-3 years ago when I painted. Most were very clogged (75% visible blockage)
Posted on 9/11/20 at 11:09 am to OysterPoBoy
quote:
Can I hose these things off when I'm cleaning the house? I'm always paranoid that I'll do damage with too much water getting in the attic.
I do - the air moving through the vents and heat in the attic will dry any water that enters the 100 F + attic very quickly, but of course it’s your call. Or get one of those auto car brushes with a hose extension and give them a quick scrub on occasion.
Posted on 9/23/20 at 10:13 am to CrawDude
quote:
ETA: You decide on a radiant barrier material? I ordered some samples from atticfoil.com. That product looks to be durable.
Just a brief update on this. I bought a 1000' roll of this Radiant barrier off of Amazon. Radiant Barrier by Q-LAM
I spent a big chunk of Sunday up in the attic with my pneumatic stapler, a box cutter and a little radio. I can't complain about the quality of the product. You definitely want something durable, and this stuff was tough but easy to cut with the blade. I ordered another roll, but I wanted to start with a single roll and see how far it went. I was able to triage my attic space and cover all of the south facing (highest sun exposure) and probably half of my western exposure with the roll.
The process is somewhere between ultimate twister and gift wrapping a box from the inside. Not difficult but I still felt like I had been beaten with a baseball bat yesterday.
There was a few tricky areas that I wasn't quite sure how to handle. I have your typical acadian/french provincial style house you find in South Louisiana. Several of the smaller roof exposures do not vent all the way up to the top. Those smaller areas with valleys tend to just terminate where it meets the larger roof structure. So I left the top portion of those areas open so that hot air doesn't simply trap in them. These were at least half way up the overall height.
For the top, I have webs and beams that flatten out about 85% of the way up. I ran up to that point and stapled leaving a nice big gap for airflow.
I'm looking forward to my second roll arriving.
Posted on 9/23/20 at 11:54 am to RaginCajunz
quote:
RaginCajunz
Thanks for the update.
What type pneumatic type stapler did you use?
Did you lay strips plywood across attic joists to make it easier to move walk across them as you rolled out and stapled the radiant barrier to the roof rafters?
Did you roll out long lengths of barrier and then cut them when you reached transition areas or cut shorter lengths as you spanned roof rafters to make it easier to work with.
Keep updating us as you find/learn new tricks that make the job easier, or activities to avoid as you progress through the job.
Looks like the barrier you ordered is about $30 per 1000 ft roll cheaper than the atticfoil.com material.
Posted on 9/23/20 at 12:22 pm to CrawDude
quote:
What type pneumatic type stapler did you use?
I used this. Surebonder Staple Gun I have owned it for years and use it for upholstery projects. It shoots your standard staple gun staples with no effort. I drug my little compressor and 100' hose up in the attic to power it.
Did you lay strips plywood across attic joists to make it easier to move walk across them as you rolled out and stapled the radiant barrier to the roof rafters?
No. I did it the old fashioned way. I did have to drag an old boxy coffee table up to an area to reach high enough by spanning the joists. I'm pretty comfortable spanning joists as I walk, never really had an issue other than it hurts when you are kneeling or laying across them to reach in tight areas.
Did you roll out long lengths of barrier and then cut them when you reached transition areas or cut shorter lengths as you spanned roof rafters to make it easier to work with.
I used a large uninsulated area above my front porch as a working area. I left the roll on the plywood sub-ceiling between the joists and pulled out 14-20' spans to work with and cut them with the utility knife. I roughly laid it out in the area I wanted, started it one corner and got it stapled, then went a few rafters over and pulled it tight. Then I would work my way up the 4' span. Once you get a few rafters started and have established your run, the rest is move...pull...staple. There are wrinkles and a few folds. I'm not winning any beauty awards, but I have good clean coverage and a clear path for the air to rise. I overlapped layers by 4-6". Then I'd trim off excess when I hit a corner.
Keep updating us as you find/learn new tricks that make the job easier, or activities to avoid as you progress through the job.
Will do. I can film Missy Elliot videos up there for a side hustle now. The funny thing is how much brighter that half of my attic is. The more you put up the better lit everything becomes.
Looks like the barrier you ordered is about $30 per 1000 ft roll cheaper than the atticfoil.com material.
I'd have a hard time believing there is a huge difference between the materials. You can feel the perforations on this one, but I didn't see any light through the pinholes. I tried really hard to balance full coverage without creating heat traps.
Posted on 9/23/20 at 5:57 pm to RaginCajunz
quote:
RaginCajunz
Good info - I have a pneumatic stapler, never thought of using it, for that purpose.
I also have Acadian style house with un-insulated porches so that good idea on placing the roll of foil between rafters In the porch area to roll it out and cut it in the attic before tacking it up.
Most of my blown in insulation covers the attic joist so I’m going to have to put down some plywood planks across the joists to walk on as I tack up strips of foil. I had planned to top off the insulation anyway - taking it from R-30 to at least R-38.
Posted on 9/23/20 at 6:47 pm to CrawDude
Glad to help.
Same. Mine is pretty trampled. Just years of projects and storage. I hope to lift, add more blown insulation and deck a bit more space.
Same. Mine is pretty trampled. Just years of projects and storage. I hope to lift, add more blown insulation and deck a bit more space.
Posted on 9/24/20 at 10:39 pm to RaginCajunz
My problem was plenty soffits, but very little ridge vent length due to roof geometry. Added a couple whirlybirds during a recent roof replacement and it's been a world of difference. Just a heads up for anyone trying to cool off their attic. Make sure to balance intake (soffit) with exhaust (ridge vents/whirlybirds/etc.)
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