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CrawDude
LSU Fan
Baton Rouge
Member since Apr 2019
1542 posts

re: Post weed cocktail question
quote:

Chastant’s in Lafayette didn’t have 0-45-0 so this is what I got. I’m assuming I can still follow Craw’s instructions, and a little extra nitrogen won’t hurt?

quote:

Also, how do you measure weight of fertilizer? Is there a volume conversion? I mean I have a little food scale that I can maybe use. ETA: just measured front lawn and it’s about 1,150 sq. Ft.

Last question first. 2 cups of a granular fertilizer will usually weighs 1 pound. Just use your food scale to verify, and if it checks out, then use a volume container to measure out what you need. It’s what I do.

On the 18-46-0 that is fine but this is what I’d do. The 1 pound of that fertilizer will provide the recommended P specified from the soil test recommendation (1/3 of it) but also 0.18 lbs of Nitrogen, so rather than applying 3 lbs per 1000 sq ft of Scotts 32-0-10, I’d reduce that application to 2.5 lbs per 1000 sq ft and that’s going to provide you the 1 lb of N per 1000 sq ft (very close to it) recommended for St Aug.

Spreader settings, every one seems to manufacturer fertilizer in different granule sizes. Whatever setting is recommended on the Scotts spreader I’d consider using a lower setting (accept for the Scotts fertilizer) and make as many passes it takes to dispense it, and then in the future adjust it upward accordingly if needed. You have a small lawn so it won’t take to much additional time if you have to make more passes. Main thing is you don’t want to run out of fertilizer in the spreader before you’ve dispensed it over the entire lawn.

BTW, I just wanted to clarify the splitting the of the P and K into 3 top dressings instead of a single application. That is a recommendation provided by the LSU AgCenter turf extension specialists and I’ll quote verbatim from my own lawn soil test analysis: “If values of P or K read low or very low, split the application into two or three topdressings adding these nutrients in April, June and/or August.” I provided a suggestion of splitting 3 ways to coincide with 3 application of regular lawn fertilizer so your fertilizer applications would all conincide.

One last tip, you’ll have open bags of fertilizer for your future applications. Seal the open fertilizer bags good after you finish and I like to store them in a plastic garbage can with a good lid that seals tight - keeps the moisture out and prevents the fertilizer from clumping while in storage. A lesson from the school of hard knocks.
This post was edited on 3/25 at 2:51 pm


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ronk
Member since Jan 2015
1526 posts

re: Post weed cocktail question
Unfortunate news is granule size matters and SouthernGRO fertilizer is owned by J and J bagging. They do not have a website or an online label where I can find their suggestions.

The best way is going to be what Craw said. A good judge of a perfect application is if your spreader is empty just as you finish your last pass.


jyoung1
LSU Fan
Lafayette
Member since May 2010
1648 posts

re: Post weed cocktail question
Sounds like a trial and error situation, i guess if the granule sizes are larger than Scott’s I should go a tad higher on the spreader setting?

(If I wanted to get the same lbs / 1000 sq ft. Which I don’t, but just for comparison sake. Unnecessary details at this point, just thought to ask. I think I’ll be able to judge as I start spreading and adjust as I go)

BTW Craw, Chicken should pay you for the amount of effort you put into your comments. Much appreciated, for you both.
This post was edited on 3/25 at 1:28 pm


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FutureMikeVIII
LSU Fan
Houston
Member since Sep 2011
262 posts

re: Post weed cocktail question
I was gonna suggest a margarita, but it seems like you're asking a different question...


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CrawDude
LSU Fan
Baton Rouge
Member since Apr 2019
1542 posts

re: Post weed cocktail question
quote:

I'm in Houston so it's been in the high 70s and low to mid 80s, is it too late for me to use the formula or should I still be good to go for some spot spraying?

Looks like its in the mid 80s for the next 3 days and then a straight week of the highs being in the 70s, on my weather app at least.


Well if you can spray on a day, morning preferably, when temps won’t top out at 85 F you should OK, or wait until next week when temps are in the 70s. You could purchase some of the MSM Turf being discussed in some other threads - you won’t be limited by the temperature restriction, although you should always be extra cautious using herbicides in the 90s, and you can use it this summer and early fall if needed. Here is MSM Turf” recipe”

This will control most, not all, common lawn weeds, it’s not just for Virginia Buttonweed. When I need to spot spray weeds, vs entire lawn, I’ll mix 1/8 tsp per gallon with surfactant and do a light spray on the targeted weed. It works slowly, so might be a week + before you start seeing the effects.


tigerfan5959
LSU Fan
Member since Jun 2010
252 posts

re: Post weed cocktail question
Crawdude, I have a bermuda lawn. When should I fertilize with? I did not get around to doing a soil test. What fertilizer would be best? I'm located in Baton Rouge.


CrawDude
LSU Fan
Baton Rouge
Member since Apr 2019
1542 posts

re: Post weed cocktail question
quote:

I have a bermuda lawn. When should I fertilize with? I did not get around to doing a soil test. What fertilizer would be best? I'm located in Baton Rouge.

Now would be a good time. I’m getting my fertilizer from Site One Landscape Supply in the Industrialplex off Siegen (Exchequer Drive). I’d suggest their LESCO 24-2-11 applied at 4 lbs per 1000 sq ft (= 1 lb N per 1000 sq ft). Repeat application in June, maybe another in August if you’d like. I bought some last week - it was $26 for a 50 lb bag (I might get a little discount) - that’s an excellent price for lawn fertilizer. I think they should be open - call first.

Get a soil test when you can - no rush - put it’s good to have that background info to see where you stand with regards to soil fertility.


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GeauxPack81
California Fan
Member since Dec 2009
9718 posts

re: Post weed cocktail question
Is it necessary to kill all my weeds prior to fertalizing? I figured most of them are just leftover winter weeds that will probably die soon anyway... I put down a pre-emergent so hopefully I won't get many new summer weeds popping up.


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