- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Paint Prep question for garage floors
Posted on 9/4/23 at 3:37 pm
Posted on 9/4/23 at 3:37 pm
I have several gallons of industrial sherwin Williams epoxy paint I plan to put down soon. My house is about 4 years old and the concrete is in good shape. I do have some oil stains here and there from working on various small engines over the past few years. Do I need to grind these spots out or a good cleaning with a degreaser and acid etch good enough? If I do grind, do I need a concrete grinding cup or can a masonry blade do the same with less damage per pass?
Posted on 9/4/23 at 4:30 pm to bayou choupique
Probably best to view some u-tube videos covering how to go about it to get a good baseline as to what is involved.
Yes, it has to be cleaned but how much depends on how dirty it is, how many cracks you may have in the floor, what kind of chemicals are staining it, etc.
Yes, it has to be cleaned but how much depends on how dirty it is, how many cracks you may have in the floor, what kind of chemicals are staining it, etc.
Posted on 9/4/23 at 4:48 pm to bayou choupique
I did it on a 30 year old garage floor with just the acid cleaning. It held really well. I don't know if that is due to the quality of the surface, my cleaning skills, the dryness it got to before applying. All of those things seem important. And lay it on thick.
Posted on 9/4/23 at 8:01 pm to bayou choupique
Rent the tool, and bead blast the surface. It will exponentially increase the longevity.
Posted on 9/4/23 at 8:48 pm to bayou choupique
Pull up the product data sheet from the interwebs or Sherwin’s website. Knowing the REX # (product #) will help.
Follow the prep and application instructions to the letter. Floor coatings are notoriously finicky, especially epoxies. You may have to be aware of sweat-in times, cure rate, as well as the pot life of the product. What coating are you using?
Follow the prep and application instructions to the letter. Floor coatings are notoriously finicky, especially epoxies. You may have to be aware of sweat-in times, cure rate, as well as the pot life of the product. What coating are you using?
This post was edited on 9/4/23 at 8:52 pm
Posted on 9/5/23 at 1:06 pm to BasilFawlty
I am using dura plate 8200, I had some left from a municipal project I was managing. I pressure washed, acid washed, and ground a few oil/paint spots today. I’ll plan to paint the curb and construction joints tomorrow and paint the floor the following day. Lots of work but it will worth it when it is done.
Posted on 9/5/23 at 1:14 pm to bayou choupique
Try using a torch on it
Posted on 9/5/23 at 1:16 pm to bayou choupique
Try torching the oil spot with a torch first
Is it a true 2 part epoxy paint?
Is it a true 2 part epoxy paint?
This post was edited on 9/5/23 at 1:17 pm
Posted on 9/5/23 at 1:19 pm to bayou choupique
quote:
I’ll plan to paint the curb and construction joints tomorrow and paint the floor the following day. Lots of work but it will worth it when it is done.
Be careful. That product has a 35 minute pot life. After 35 minutes it's not usable anymore. If you mix the entire kit, you have to use it. It won't keep. You might try mixing batches using the 3:1 ratio, but I don't think that's recommended.
This post was edited on 9/5/23 at 1:28 pm
Posted on 9/5/23 at 6:47 pm to BasilFawlty
Yes it is a true 2 part. Yes I’m aware of the pot life. I read you are not supposed to mix partial batches but I have no choice
Posted on 9/6/23 at 5:17 am to bayou choupique
Not what you want to hear but I can confidently say this is one of the projects best left to the pros and not only that, go with the best. Every DIY job I’ve seen looks cheap and starts peeling. Ninja did mine a couple of years ago and it looks the same as it did they day they finished. They use a shite ton of the flakes and then a seriously thick clear coating on top of the flakes. I haven’t even seen a flake come up yet. I think it was 3k for a large 2 car garage, but we had to wait a few months as they stay booked. You can talk them down on price a bit fwiw.
Posted on 9/6/23 at 7:58 am to bayou choupique
Reading the data sheet shows that the product requires a primer before using on concrete as well.
Popular
Back to top
