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Installing gutters... Drip edge? Welded or riveted at seams with sealant?

Posted on 5/21/19 at 2:05 pm
Posted by NATidefan
Two hours North of Birmingham
Member since Dec 2008
36075 posts
Posted on 5/21/19 at 2:05 pm
Going to install a long gutter run. No turns or anything, just 60 feet straight.

I know about sloping them and stuff like that. But was wondering about whether I should install a drip edge and if overlapping and riveting the seams with sealant would be fine vs welding them.

Thanks
This post was edited on 5/21/19 at 2:29 pm
Posted by TDsngumbo
Alpha Silverfox
Member since Oct 2011
41623 posts
Posted on 5/21/19 at 2:19 pm to
I would assume the caulk would deteriorate after a couple months in the sunshine. Maybe try some plumbers putty along with some rubber cement type of combination. I'm just spit-balling, though. I've never done this before so I have no experience with it.
Posted by NATidefan
Two hours North of Birmingham
Member since Dec 2008
36075 posts
Posted on 5/21/19 at 2:25 pm to
Well, I say chaulk, but it's the seam sealant that comes with the seams.
Posted by piratedude
baton rouge
Member since Oct 2009
2504 posts
Posted on 5/22/19 at 4:47 am to
drip edge is always nice. there is no need to either weld or rivet the drip edge. just lap the joints over a few inches and nail.

for connecting joints of gutter, over-lap a few inches, with the higher side on the inside. water running downhill would run over the lap, not into it. seal with gutter sealer and rivet.

best practice would be to have a seamless gutter vendor come out and make you a 60' run on-site.
Posted by gumbo2176
Member since May 2018
15149 posts
Posted on 5/22/19 at 7:34 am to
/\ What he said. Also put on the end caps and crimp them on as tight as you can and use the seam sealer to make them water tight.

I'm assuming 2 downspouts, one on each end. If so, make sure to cut a tight hole for the starter to go through and seal it with seam sealer, then rivet the downspouts together and no need for sealer on them but be sure to run each piece to make the downspout so the pieces overlap on the outside of the previous one.

ETA: This is if installing aluminum gutters. If installing galvanized you have the option to use solder on the seams or going with seam sealer. If soldering the seams, don't overlap them as much so the solder penetrates the whole overlap. If you overlap them too much, the muriatic acid used to prep the metal can cause the gutters to rust over time as it eats the galvanized coating off so the solder can stick.
This post was edited on 5/22/19 at 7:38 am
Posted by NATidefan
Two hours North of Birmingham
Member since Dec 2008
36075 posts
Posted on 5/22/19 at 11:08 am to
Ok thanks, I was planning the overlap, rivet, and sealer for the gutters til I came across a page about welding them. But after further research it seems that the overlap, rivet, and sealer method is the main method so I'm going with that.

Gonna skip the drip edge though, the shingles hang out about 2.5 inches or so at least. Looks like they'll come to and end about half way over the gutter.

The roof has a decent pitch ( steep enough I dont wanna walk on it) so I dont think I'll need the drip edge.
This post was edited on 5/22/19 at 11:50 am
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