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Message
re: I sprayed yard with Atrazine/Weedfree Zone/Spreader sticker today
Posted on 3/7/20 at 9:02 pm to ronk
Posted on 3/7/20 at 9:02 pm to ronk
quote:
I’m on my phone but that looks like bermuda. You can’t spray bermuda with atrazine if it’s already greened up.
Front yard.

Back yard

Before I sprayed anything I brought those pictures to a local lawn expert. Was told back yard is St Aug and front yard was St Aug with a little Centipede mixed in.
ETA: All of the grass is still green after spraying. If there’s any Bermuda mixed in, I’m ok with killing it and letting St Aug take over.
This post was edited on 3/7/20 at 9:06 pm
Posted on 3/7/20 at 11:02 pm to PillageUrVillage
Yeah, that’s at aug. my phone just couldn’t zoom in with getting pixelated. Atrazine is fine for greening you st aug.
Posted on 3/8/20 at 6:02 pm to CrawDude
This should not be used on St Augustine turf??? 24-d is hard in St Augustine to my knowledge
Posted on 3/8/20 at 6:03 pm to ronk
I mowed and sprayed a second treatment today. After mowing I could tell even more that it needed a second spray. I think I went a little faster this time it only took 7 batches to do the yard instead of 8 like last time, but I'm good with it. I have spots or areas that are bare right now. Hopefully that goes away once I spread fertilizer in a few weeks and the grass starts to take over.
Posted on 3/8/20 at 7:01 pm to CenlaLowell
quote:
This should not be used on St Augustine turf??? 24-d is hard in St Augustine to my knowledge
It’s fine as long as as air temps don’t exceed 85 F +, so it’s a late winter, early spring, and fall application concoction. I have a St Aug backyard and never had any damage when applied during those seasons. But there might be a cultivar of St Aug that’s a little more sensitive - Palmetto? - I forget.
Posted on 3/8/20 at 8:34 pm to CrawDude
I sprayed this same cocktail today... will probably do a repeat application around the end of the month then fertilize a few weeks later
Posted on 3/9/20 at 8:18 am to Glock17
Is waiting a few weeks to fertilize the way to go? Should I use just a plain Scott’s Turff Builder fertilizer or would a weed & feed product work well then?
I have a long strip of tall fescue grass that I planted along with centipede back in September where an excavator tracked through for some demo work. Very little centipede is growing (my hope was the fescue would fill in for winter then die back in spring and allow the centipede to grow). I was dumb! I’m planning on killing the fescue and going back to plant centipede there to match the rest of the yard. Any tips for that would be appreciated as well.
I have a long strip of tall fescue grass that I planted along with centipede back in September where an excavator tracked through for some demo work. Very little centipede is growing (my hope was the fescue would fill in for winter then die back in spring and allow the centipede to grow). I was dumb! I’m planning on killing the fescue and going back to plant centipede there to match the rest of the yard. Any tips for that would be appreciated as well.
Posted on 3/9/20 at 8:59 am to TDsngumbo
quote:
Is waiting a few weeks to fertilize the way to go? Should I use just a plain Scott’s Turff Builder fertilizer or would a weed & feed product work well then?
I'm no expert here, but my understanding is that you want to be sure the weed cocktail has knocked back as much as possible so you don't end up fertilizing weeds. So ideally I'd like to give the weed cocktail a couple of weeks to be effective before I come back with fertilizer.
Posted on 3/9/20 at 9:18 am to TDsngumbo
Where you located?
For S LA, around April 1 would be good - your centipede should be out of dormancy by then. For centipede I’d suggest a 15-0-15 if you can find it, or if not a lawn fertilizer with the nitrogen in the low 20s. Not a weed & feed. You have many weeds? Considered spraying now them if so. Centipede should be fertilized at 0.5 lb nitrogen (N) per 1000 sq ft per application. Divide the % N of the fertilizer into 50 for the application rate, e.g., 15-x-x fertilizer, 3 1/3 lbs (50 divided by 15) per 1000 sq ft. You can do a second fertilizer application in June/July if you feel you need it. Centipede has low fertilization requirements compared to St Aug and Bermudagrass.
You weren’t dumb - that was a good plan, weeds would have grown in that damaged area if had you not planted something like rye or fescue. Not surprising it hasn’t filled in, that was September and centipede grows slow. Much slower than St Aug, Bermudagrass. Fescue being a cool season grass will go dormant and likely die when temps hit the 90s. If you want kill it and re-sod rather than waiting for it to fill in that’s fine, just do a light till on the grass after it’s dead (from heat or spraying) so the new sod is in contact with bare dirt, and water the new sod frequently - daily for the first week, every other day the second week, and twice during the 3rd week, and as needed thereafter.
quote:
Is waiting a few weeks to fertilize the way to go? Should I use just a plain Scott’s Turff Builder fertilizer or would a weed & feed product work well then?
For S LA, around April 1 would be good - your centipede should be out of dormancy by then. For centipede I’d suggest a 15-0-15 if you can find it, or if not a lawn fertilizer with the nitrogen in the low 20s. Not a weed & feed. You have many weeds? Considered spraying now them if so. Centipede should be fertilized at 0.5 lb nitrogen (N) per 1000 sq ft per application. Divide the % N of the fertilizer into 50 for the application rate, e.g., 15-x-x fertilizer, 3 1/3 lbs (50 divided by 15) per 1000 sq ft. You can do a second fertilizer application in June/July if you feel you need it. Centipede has low fertilization requirements compared to St Aug and Bermudagrass.
quote:
I have a long strip of tall fescue grass that I planted along with centipede back in September where an excavator tracked through for some demo work. Very little centipede is growing (my hope was the fescue would fill in for winter then die back in spring and allow the centipede to grow). I was dumb! I’m planning on killing the fescue and going back to plant centipede there to match the rest of the yard. Any tips for that would be appreciated as well.
You weren’t dumb - that was a good plan, weeds would have grown in that damaged area if had you not planted something like rye or fescue. Not surprising it hasn’t filled in, that was September and centipede grows slow. Much slower than St Aug, Bermudagrass. Fescue being a cool season grass will go dormant and likely die when temps hit the 90s. If you want kill it and re-sod rather than waiting for it to fill in that’s fine, just do a light till on the grass after it’s dead (from heat or spraying) so the new sod is in contact with bare dirt, and water the new sod frequently - daily for the first week, every other day the second week, and twice during the 3rd week, and as needed thereafter.
This post was edited on 3/9/20 at 9:44 am
Posted on 3/9/20 at 10:00 am to CrawDude
quote:
For S LA, around April 1 would be good - your centipede should be out of dormancy by then. For centipede I’d suggest a 15-0-15 if you can find it, or if not a lawn fertilizer with the nitrogen in the low 20s. Not a weed & feed. You have many weeds? Considered spraying now them if so. Centipede should be fertilized at 0.5 lb nitrogen (N) per 1000 sq ft per application. Divide the % N of the fertilizer into 50 for the application rate, e.g., 15-x-x fertilizer, 3 1/3 lbs (50 divided by 15) per 1000 sq ft. You can do a second fertilizer application in June/July if you feel you need it. Centipede has low fertilization requirements compared to St Aug and Bermudagrass.
quote:
I have a long strip of tall fescue grass that I planted along with centipede back in September where an excavator tracked through for some demo work. Very little centipede is growing (my hope was the fescue would fill in for winter then die back in spring and allow the centipede to grow). I was dumb! I’m planning on killing the fescue and going back to plant centipede there to match the rest of the yard. Any tips for that would be appreciated as well.
You weren’t dumb - that was a good plan, weeds would have grown in that damaged area if had you not planted something like rye or fescue. Not surprising it hasn’t filled in, that was September and centipede grows slow. Much slower than St Aug, Bermudagrass. Fescue being a cool season grass will go dormant and likely die when temps hit the 90s. If you want kill it and re-sod rather than waiting for it to fill in that’s fine, just do a light till on the grass after it’s dead (from heat or spraying) so the new sod is in contact with bare dirt, and water the new sod frequently - daily for the first week, every other day the second week, and twice during the 3rd week, and as needed thereafter.
I’m in southLA and was planning on spreading centipede seed instead of sod due to the cost of sod. Your advice still stands with seed rather than sod?
Posted on 3/9/20 at 10:51 am to TDsngumbo
I prefer sod to seed as warm season seed germination is relatively low.
Did you apply a pre em?
Did you apply a pre em?
Posted on 3/9/20 at 11:15 am to ronk
I've had success with centipede seeds germinating in the past. I once had a large bare spot where a shed used to be and planted seeds there and had a thick sod within a few months. I may just go that route here again after killing off the fescue.
Posted on 3/9/20 at 11:40 am to TDsngumbo
quote:
I’m in southLA and was planning on spreading centipede seed instead of sod due to the cost of sod. Your advice still stands with seed rather than sod?
I’d agree ronk, I’d bite the bullet if at all possible and put down sod if at all possible. Don’t know how many square ft you are dealing with but centipede was $150 or so a pallet (450 sq ft) last year. If you did put down pre-emergent you can nix the seed idea, and as ronk said low germination and really takes a long time to fill in, like many months, maybe a year +, it’s not like rye or fescue so don’t use that as a comparison. Then lawn weeds will also appear and you not going use herbicides to treat lawn weeds in that area on young, emerging centipede grass seedlings as the herbicides will likely damage them.
Honestly, if I couldn’t do sod I think I’d be more inclined to let the the fescue run it’s course, and let the centipede encroach/run into the area, at least that way you could do some weed control/suppression in the damaged area. I’ve tried centipede seed before without success, admittedly I might have done a poor job in managing it after the fact but it was a long time ago and I’m much wiser about this stuff now then I was back then.
Posted on 3/10/20 at 7:18 am to CrawDude
I never knew sod was so cheap. I feel dumb for using seeds in the past!!
This post was edited on 3/10/20 at 7:20 am
Posted on 3/11/20 at 8:14 am to TDsngumbo
Did I just read that its worthless to try to seed centipede grass after spraying pre/post emergent winter weed cocktail?
I will have some bare spots after the second treatment of the cocktail and planned to seed those areas. Is sod the only right answer?
I will have some bare spots after the second treatment of the cocktail and planned to seed those areas. Is sod the only right answer?
Posted on 3/11/20 at 8:56 am to browl
quote:
Did I just read that its worthless to try to seed centipede grass after spraying pre/post emergent winter weed cocktail? I will have some bare spots after the second treatment of the cocktail and planned to seed those areas. Is sod the only right answer?
Yes don’t seed it b/c atrazine is a pre-emergent as well as a post-emergent - atrazine label states not to overseed lawn for 6 months following application. Fortunately centipede sod is not particularly expensive. I’ve not priced it this year, but last year it was $150 per pallet (450 sq ft) where I purchase it from. Individual pieces (24 in x 16 in) more expensive per sq ft.
Posted on 3/11/20 at 9:24 am to CrawDude
Yep, after reading your post I found centipede sod at Quality Sod in BR for $159/pallet. Much cheaper than I thought it was. Since I over estimated my taxes for 2019 I will have a decent refund
so I plan on using that when I get it to sod the rough areas of my yard.


This post was edited on 3/11/20 at 9:26 am
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